New dyno numbers after ASP pulley
12-10-2001, 08:56 PM
#21
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by WayneSS01:
<strong>This is impressive. If someone would entertain a few dumb-ASP questions from the uninformed. <img src="images/icons/blush.gif" border="0">
What does ASP mean, is it an acronym?
This pulley simply replaces the stock unit located on the end of the crank along with a shorter belt, correct?
How does this thing actually work? Does it lessen the rotating mass of the stock unit?
Since this gives such a gain why would GM not do this already?
What are the ill effects on a dialy driver?
Anything else you could teach the dumb-ASP on this subject? <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
[ December 10, 2001: Message edited by: WayneSS01 ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
Not sure but I think ASP means Auto Specialty Products.
It replaces the stock pulley on the crank snout. There's also a pulley you can get for the alternator. What basically happens is it slows down the accesories. A smaller crank pulley won't spin the PS pump, water pump, alternator as fast. The alternator pulley just slows the alt down even more. <---This can be a problem on automatic cars or a car that has a large sound system. Generally A4 guys will only do the crank pulley unless they raise their idle speed.
<strong>This is impressive. If someone would entertain a few dumb-ASP questions from the uninformed. <img src="images/icons/blush.gif" border="0">
What does ASP mean, is it an acronym?
This pulley simply replaces the stock unit located on the end of the crank along with a shorter belt, correct?
How does this thing actually work? Does it lessen the rotating mass of the stock unit?
Since this gives such a gain why would GM not do this already?
What are the ill effects on a dialy driver?
Anything else you could teach the dumb-ASP on this subject? <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
[ December 10, 2001: Message edited by: WayneSS01 ]</strong><hr></blockquote>
Not sure but I think ASP means Auto Specialty Products.
It replaces the stock pulley on the crank snout. There's also a pulley you can get for the alternator. What basically happens is it slows down the accesories. A smaller crank pulley won't spin the PS pump, water pump, alternator as fast. The alternator pulley just slows the alt down even more. <---This can be a problem on automatic cars or a car that has a large sound system. Generally A4 guys will only do the crank pulley unless they raise their idle speed.
12-10-2001, 09:18 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Jake99SS:
<strong>
Not sure but I think ASP means Auto Specialty Products.
It replaces the stock pulley on the crank snout. There's also a pulley you can get for the alternator. What basically happens is it slows down the accesories. A smaller crank pulley won't spin the PS pump, water pump, alternator as fast. The alternator pulley just slows the alt down even more. <---This can be a problem on automatic cars or a car that has a large sound system. Generally A4 guys will only do the crank pulley unless they raise their idle speed.</strong><hr></blockquote>
so i should only buy the crank pulley cause i have a A4 i didn't know the alt pulley slowed it down evenmore i though it did just the opposite but if not the heck with that i don't want my battery under that much strain i will just do the crank
<strong>
Not sure but I think ASP means Auto Specialty Products.
It replaces the stock pulley on the crank snout. There's also a pulley you can get for the alternator. What basically happens is it slows down the accesories. A smaller crank pulley won't spin the PS pump, water pump, alternator as fast. The alternator pulley just slows the alt down even more. <---This can be a problem on automatic cars or a car that has a large sound system. Generally A4 guys will only do the crank pulley unless they raise their idle speed.</strong><hr></blockquote>
so i should only buy the crank pulley cause i have a A4 i didn't know the alt pulley slowed it down evenmore i though it did just the opposite but if not the heck with that i don't want my battery under that much strain i will just do the crank
12-11-2001, 12:08 AM
#23
Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Unfortunately, most people are hung up on peak dyno numbers which really don't mean much. How was the trace compared to the previous trace. If you show 8-9hp increase throughout the entire rpm range, then that is a good gain. But a peak gain of 9hp doesn't really mean much.
This isn't a flame, just trying to make a point <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
This isn't a flame, just trying to make a point <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0">
12-11-2001, 12:30 AM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Awesome <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
Just got mine in the mail a few days ago and everything is going on at once, I won't know exactly what I am going to gain from the pulley alone but it's nice to have an idea!
Just got mine in the mail a few days ago and everything is going on at once, I won't know exactly what I am going to gain from the pulley alone but it's nice to have an idea!
12-11-2001, 08:03 PM
#25
Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Yes the alt pulley slows it down even more. I have both but I have a M6. I would do the crank only on the A4. But that's just me. Mine does not charge at idle with the A/C cranked and head lights on. Some times doesn't even charge with nothing on. But as soon as I give it a little rev like above 1000RPM it goes back to charging.
12-11-2001, 11:46 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by 2000RATA:
<strong>Yes the alt pulley slows it down even more. I have both but I have a M6. I would do the crank only on the A4. But that's just me. Mine does not charge at idle with the A/C cranked and head lights on. Some times doesn't even charge with nothing on. But as soon as I give it a little rev like above 1000RPM it goes back to charging.</strong><hr></blockquote>cool thanks man so all i need to buy is the crank pulley and the two smaller belts that go with it right
<strong>Yes the alt pulley slows it down even more. I have both but I have a M6. I would do the crank only on the A4. But that's just me. Mine does not charge at idle with the A/C cranked and head lights on. Some times doesn't even charge with nothing on. But as soon as I give it a little rev like above 1000RPM it goes back to charging.</strong><hr></blockquote>cool thanks man so all i need to buy is the crank pulley and the two smaller belts that go with it right
12-12-2001, 06:50 AM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Can you guys give me an estimate on how long it
should take a shop to install an ASP set-up? I
rarely have time anymore to work on my cars.
Thanks!
should take a shop to install an ASP set-up? I
rarely have time anymore to work on my cars.
Thanks!
12-12-2001, 09:08 AM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Red Dragon, you should also buy a new pulley bolt. If you buy a 'kit' from someone they are normally in there. The way the bolts are torqued down your not suppose to use them again. The bolts are only $3 or so.
SINSSTR, I think Steve2000SS told me it took the shop he took his car to about 30 minuets. I know this shop has done the work before so figure 30-60 minuets depending on the shop.
SINSSTR, I think Steve2000SS told me it took the shop he took his car to about 30 minuets. I know this shop has done the work before so figure 30-60 minuets depending on the shop.
12-12-2001, 06:06 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Poltergeist:
<strong>Red Dragon, you should also buy a new pulley bolt. If you buy a 'kit' from someone they are normally in there. The way the bolts are torqued down your not suppose to use them again. The bolts are only $3 or so.
.</strong><hr></blockquote>
thats cool i never heard of that though that once you take the bolt off you can't use it again but oh well as long as they have a new one in the kit i shold be ok right and what should i touque the bolt down to cause im gonna install them myself so any install info would be a great help to me
thanks
<strong>Red Dragon, you should also buy a new pulley bolt. If you buy a 'kit' from someone they are normally in there. The way the bolts are torqued down your not suppose to use them again. The bolts are only $3 or so.
.</strong><hr></blockquote>
thats cool i never heard of that though that once you take the bolt off you can't use it again but oh well as long as they have a new one in the kit i shold be ok right and what should i touque the bolt down to cause im gonna install them myself so any install info would be a great help to me
thanks
12-12-2001, 08:23 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Red Dragon:
<strong>
thats cool i never heard of that though that once you take the bolt off you can't use it again but oh well as long as they have a new one in the kit i shold be ok right and what should i touque the bolt down to cause im gonna install them myself so any install info would be a great help to me
thanks</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is the way I've been told to do it. After you get the old one off. Use the OLD bolt to seat the new pulley on the car. Torque the old bolt to 240lbs. Remove the old bolt, put in the new bolt with red Locktite on it. Torque it to 37-40lbs (gotton that range depending on who you talk to). Then (and this is the fun part) add an additional 140 degrees to the bolt. So basically after you hit torque continue for 140 degrees after that. Most people use about a 2 foor cheater bar to get the extra turn in.
<strong>
thats cool i never heard of that though that once you take the bolt off you can't use it again but oh well as long as they have a new one in the kit i shold be ok right and what should i touque the bolt down to cause im gonna install them myself so any install info would be a great help to me
thanks</strong><hr></blockquote>
This is the way I've been told to do it. After you get the old one off. Use the OLD bolt to seat the new pulley on the car. Torque the old bolt to 240lbs. Remove the old bolt, put in the new bolt with red Locktite on it. Torque it to 37-40lbs (gotton that range depending on who you talk to). Then (and this is the fun part) add an additional 140 degrees to the bolt. So basically after you hit torque continue for 140 degrees after that. Most people use about a 2 foor cheater bar to get the extra turn in.
12-12-2001, 09:48 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Poltergeist:
<strong>
This is the way I've been told to do it. After you get the old one off. Use the OLD bolt to seat the new pulley on the car. Torque the old bolt to 240lbs. Remove the old bolt, put in the new bolt with red Locktite on it. Torque it to 37-40lbs (gotton that range depending on who you talk to). Then (and this is the fun part) add an additional 140 degrees to the bolt. So basically after you hit torque continue for 140 degrees after that. Most people use about a 2 foor cheater bar to get the extra turn in.</strong><hr></blockquote>
240lbs eh' what is that in ft. lbs or is that ft. lbs if so that is tight as hell
<img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
<strong>
This is the way I've been told to do it. After you get the old one off. Use the OLD bolt to seat the new pulley on the car. Torque the old bolt to 240lbs. Remove the old bolt, put in the new bolt with red Locktite on it. Torque it to 37-40lbs (gotton that range depending on who you talk to). Then (and this is the fun part) add an additional 140 degrees to the bolt. So basically after you hit torque continue for 140 degrees after that. Most people use about a 2 foor cheater bar to get the extra turn in.</strong><hr></blockquote>
240lbs eh' what is that in ft. lbs or is that ft. lbs if so that is tight as hell
<img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
12-12-2001, 09:52 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Nickn20:
<strong>
<img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
*****.
on the other hand, if it is indeed showing this gain, all the better.
btw, i do have the ASP pulleys (2)
<strong>
<img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
*****.
on the other hand, if it is indeed showing this gain, all the better.
btw, i do have the ASP pulleys (2)
12-12-2001, 09:54 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>I was one of the first LS1 owners to install an ASP crank pulley. About 3 years ago! Picked up 8 rwhp on the dynojet, and dyno tested the install before/after on the same day.
The pulley is worth a solid tenth at the track, even if your dyno runs might not show it sometimes. Raughammer showed like 1 rwhp on the dyno but still picked up a tenth at the track with this mod.
Exactly what i was referring to Tony.
Chris
Tony</strong><hr></blockquote>
<strong>I was one of the first LS1 owners to install an ASP crank pulley. About 3 years ago! Picked up 8 rwhp on the dynojet, and dyno tested the install before/after on the same day.
The pulley is worth a solid tenth at the track, even if your dyno runs might not show it sometimes. Raughammer showed like 1 rwhp on the dyno but still picked up a tenth at the track with this mod.
Exactly what i was referring to Tony.
Chris
Tony</strong><hr></blockquote>
12-12-2001, 10:31 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley [quote]Originally posted by Red Dragon:
<strong>
240lbs eh' what is that in ft. lbs or is that ft. lbs if so that is tight as hell
<img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
240Ft lbs. Yeah it's tight and one of the fun parts of putting the pulley on. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> It's also why you use the old bolt instead of the new one for this. Or you can go buy the special little tool for this. I don't know how much it costs, but it's probably not cheap. Also if this is going on an M6 most people put the car in 5th gear. For an A4 it seems what most do is jam a big screw driver in between the teeth of the fly wheel to keep the engine from turning.
<strong>
240lbs eh' what is that in ft. lbs or is that ft. lbs if so that is tight as hell
<img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>
240Ft lbs. Yeah it's tight and one of the fun parts of putting the pulley on. <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0"> It's also why you use the old bolt instead of the new one for this. Or you can go buy the special little tool for this. I don't know how much it costs, but it's probably not cheap. Also if this is going on an M6 most people put the car in 5th gear. For an A4 it seems what most do is jam a big screw driver in between the teeth of the fly wheel to keep the engine from turning.
12-12-2001, 10:51 PM
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Re: New dyno numbers after ASP pulley Red Dragon, just remembered about this site. Go there the guy did a real good write up on putting the pulley on.
http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html
http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html
