RyanJ

For some of us cheap-o's like myself...let's discuss budget build ups.

Budget Heads/Cam
Budget Stroker
Budget Nitrous machine
etc.

Iron Blocks, Stage 1 heads, Factory replacement parts, Home fixes and builds, etc.

Joe K., I'm talking to you. <img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" />


Ryan

CHRISPY

ARE's S1 heads, cam, LS6 intake, ported Throttle body package is a good deal as are some of the other vendors. I would go with MAC headers with offroad Ypipe, collector mod and cutout.
S1 heads and cam (Probably a B1 or TR 224/224 114LSA and 566 lift) That way you can use the stock program without issue. (Though an HPP+ would be great for rev limit etc)
Lid, free mods, and some weight reduction and you'll fly <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0">
Cheers,
Chris

RyanJ

Nice combo Chris. But is there an even more budgeted combo out there? i mean, something like a stock block, total seal rings, home ported heads, etc. or and iron block with Escalade pistons. or any of Joe K's motor.... <img src="images/icons/smile.gif" border="0"> you know, spend the money where it needs spent and save where you can, right? Not all of us want to spend $2400 on heads for pete's sake. or drop the cash on one of those all-bore aluminum blocks. can any machine shop press in liners? im not trying to steal sponsor money, but budget racing has its place. some of you know my plan already.

now lets discuss.


Ryan

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Iron block, .060 over, 6" SBC rods, and off the shelf SBC hyper pistons make for a real budget 375ci motor. I decided to use light weight forged pistons on my 375ci though, those hypers were about 750g with pin, the forged jobs are 500g with pin.

Matt98SS

so Terry and .060 over pistons will work with this application?

what part # and brand of pistons are you using?

also you using the truck crank or car crank?

thanks

RyanJ

Im getting my Speed Pro catalog this week (i had to be approved to recieve it) and ill be checking compression height and what not. Im curious just what will fit the truck motors +.030 or .060. Stock rods may work as well.


Ryan

RyanJ

T
T
T

just me

I'm doing a budget rebuild already in progress.
Stock pistons and rods.
Total seal ts1 gapless rings.
Federal Mogul tri metal bearings for mains and rods.
hand glaze break the cylinders
Home Ported stage 3 heads <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Arp head bolts
Stock cam
Vortech at 10psi.
I'll have about 600$ in the shortblock rebuild and that's including a replacment piston for the one I cracked and gaskets.
Of course the power is made from the vortech and my headwork and the vortech is not exactly a budget item <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Looking for about 550RWHP with a nice smooth idle and stump pulling midrange torque <img src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" border="0" alt="[guns]" />

Crazyquik

[quote]Originally posted by just me:
<strong>
hand glaze break the cylinders
</strong><hr></blockquote>

What's this <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">

RyanJ

up

Matt98SS

my thoughts is just honing the block with one you get from an autoparts store that you attach to your drill then use standard size pistons

How much does the iron block weigh over the aluminum? 50 or so?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

More like 70 lbs...

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

I think there's some good, cheap build-ups that can take place with the right parts and knowledge. I'm pretty sure that Larry Sample from Sugarland home-ported the heads on his '98 Z28 and picked up around 20 RWHP. That's pretty nice for home porting if you ask me! <img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" /> It would be interesting to see the results with the aluminum 6.0L heads. With the added cubes, I'd look around for a nice, used aftermarket cam. Jason98TA bought a used 216/220 cam that he's gonna use in his 6.0L for his truck. If you don't get in a hurry, I think you can find some good parts for cheap, and you'll stand to benefit from more camshaft than the LS6.
As for fitting SBC pistons in, I don't know. You might e-mail Joe K. and see if he'll throw in his $.02 on this. He's really knowledgeable w/ this stuff, especially since he built his iron-block 375 cid in his garage. <img src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" border="0" alt="[hail]" /> I'm sure he has researched a million-and-one different possibilities for the 6.0L.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I'd do....

-Iron block bored .030-.050
-6.125 Eagle forged rods
-Forged pistons
-228 duration/114 Camshaft/110IC
-Home port some heads and do 2.05/1.57 valves or the biggest you can use with stock seats
-LS6 intake

Probably could just use stock rods though but I'd want a setup that could run 7000 rpms safely over and over.

just me

Yep Matt that's it exactly.
Let me tell you, when your on a budget you do not spend a lot of money on the shortblock where it is not needed.
The shortblock makes no power, it's in your heads and cam or blower or nitrous where you find the power.


I don't know how many guys I have seen spend a fortune on the shortblock thinking the super duper torque plated cylinder to .000000001" runout and all the latest shortblock tricks is going to build them a ton of power and then they bolt on a set of **** heads and go no where.
Or even worse they think they bought/built some indestructible monster with their 700$ pistons and 800$ rods and 2500$ crank and blow the whole mess up on the bottle,lol


This is a budget thread. If your not on a budget then by all means spend the money on parts and machine shop service.
<img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

RyanJ

how about iron block +.030, stock rods, 3.9 or 4" stoke cast crank, SBC hyper pistons, ARP bolts, ~230/5xx/114+, ls6 intake (maybe not right away), 01 truck heads CHEAPLY ported. stock seats will only go to 2.02/1.57 valves i think. without block labor, thats like $2200 in a long block (home porting the heads). pretty good if you ask me <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">


Damn im cheap.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I think that loose rings and stock pistons would be a great idea. I would do aftermarket pistons and keep the stock rods and crank. I am sure that there are pistons out there that would work in a 4.030 6.0 liter block, and they might be like $350-450.

RyanJ

[quote]Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>I think that loose rings and stock pistons would be a great idea. I would do aftermarket pistons and keep the stock rods and crank. I am sure that there are pistons out there that would work in a 4.030 6.0 liter block, and they might be like $350-450.</strong><hr></blockquote>


loose rings?

we'll find out about the pistons early next week, hopefully. Most Speed Pro stuff (the hypereutetic) goes for about $8-15 per piston.

hopefully cast cranks will surface and be around $700 or less. a stocker would be way cheaper, but 52-62 cubic inches realy helps. <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />


Ryan

RyanJ

course if you do what steve is doing to his block (with a truck block though) you could use some stock Esclade pistons (higher CR i think) and run some good rings and bearings. stock rods and a 3.9" cast cranks and still have that positive B/S ratio. thats a 392 right there. buy a used cam and home port your heads. wow, i keep getting cheaper.

Ryan

[ December 11, 2001: Message edited by: RyanJackson ]</p>

just me

the very first thing I would spend extra on is the pistons.
Forget cast.
I was going to but decided against it as I don't want to make these thin sleeves any thinner.I wouyld rather just start out with a fresh newer block with thicker sleeves.
I am staying with them also because I think I can keep them alive with the blower as I cut compression a bit.
plus then I would have needed the block honed for size,rebalance the rotating assembly.Now it's getting expensive.
Bah humbug! <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />