Blew out my Crank Position Sensor...
Why did it **** the bed? A month ago I had the same problem immediately after washing the car and I had it towed to a chevy dealership. After 3 days of diagnostics..lol...they blamed the CPS also and said to get the car out of their shop because it was too highly modified for them to work on (I wasn't even claiming warranty). On the same visit they had repaired my power window motor under warranty and when I got there to settle up with them and have the car towed out the idiots had left the drivers side window down. I tried to move it up, but the battery was completely dead. I had them hook up a jumper box so I could put the window up before the tow truck came and on a hunch I turned the key and she fired right up, much to the amaze of the mechanics who had worked on it. My buddy tried this same fix yesterday, but he said it would just crank and not fire.
Has anyone else blown one of these? Just curious...
Lawrence
The wires for the CPS run down the passenger side inner fender by the #4 and #6 header primaries. The sensor itself is in the underside of the block, connected with a typical LS1 male/female connector. The sensor itself is bathed in oil.
So, if your sensor went bad, I surmise it's the wiring is getting shorted out, or you have a cut wire.
I just replaced the sensor and the entire wire myself because of an ignition problem.
Hard to start/just cranks problem sounds like it could be CPS if you read the Helms manual. There are a few pages that discuss it.
CPS sensor is about $35. Drop the starter to change it. Starter is held in my 15mm bolts.
I'd seriously consider doing what I did, which was to redo the wires from the pcm to the connector.
He's checking over the wiring and new CPS today, hopefully it will be done tomorrow and we'll be able to surmise what caused it.




