Mike K.

Hey guys I just want to make sure I do this right before I do it,, I have all my exhaust peices off the car now, manifolds, y pipe, cats, oil tube and starter, now I have read in previous posts that you have to move the transmission in order to make enough room to get the SLP LT's up in there, to do this do I just have to unbolt the crossmember that is hooked onto the transmission below the car,, I believe it is held on by 4 bolts if memory serves me correctly? Once I do this will I be able to push it over easily? And one last quest should I use a floor jack to hold up the transmission once I take the brace off? Thanks in advance guys any help on this would be appreciated. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

Gary

The crossmember is attached to the car with four bolts, and one bolt in the center. Yes you need to use a floor jack to support the transmission. You will get some movement left and right but not much, you will also get good movement up and down if you need it. You might need to disconnect the torque arm as well. I never installed SLP long tubes, but I have removed the transmission.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

ttt

TA_2001

Here is my writeup for you..

There is a casting block that I cut like this
I went to autoparts and got this small hacksaw. I cut from front to rear and took about 1/2 of block off.. then used a file to fix it up at bit.
This was after pass side stock manifold and starter are off.

Ok this was my setup to get the headers in.
tires were about 15" and I chose this to be
the best standard measure:
from floor to oil drain plug (M6) 16.5"
from floor to floor pan 22.75"
( right above drain plug ). I let the trans
down about 3 inches maybe a bit more.
I had a 2X4 about 12" and slid it between
body and trans and had 13 yearold daughter
push trans over as far as she could on pass
side towards drivers. They slid right in.
No starter or heat shields.
Drivers side I tried the kid and she wasnt
any help so I was able to push trans to pass
side with board and slide header in. Im normal strength no he man here.
Use duct tape on everything sharp to keep scratches to minimum.
Put cats and y-pipe on .. great fit.
Put starter back up and found that I needed
to do as the instructions said and untape
the wires or seperate them back to where they
were routed through the motor mount.
The wires can be routed better and closer to
the block. Im using muffler tape to protect
them when I get them where I want them.
I have posted over at slp and the firewire
tubing seems to be very very heat resitant.
some with 6000 miles no problem.
Tomorrow button her back up and start it maybe sat morning.
Terry

[ December 27, 2001: Message edited by: TA_2001 ]</p>

Mike K.

Thanks again TA, I'll use the 2x4 and hope that its not too hard to push over.