ARP head stud kit OR head bolt kit??
#21
UNDER PRESSURE MOD
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
I am going to agree with you on many points here, BUT
You got them for a steal...I didnt have the extra cash, so I opted for the head bolts...better than stock, but not the best, right in the middle...so you cant beat that....
also, I am not going to take the heads off...not after all of this freakin work..I already promised myself and my biggest car fan (my dad) that the next thing we both do to my SS is a big cubed motor...
I cleaned the bolt holes with compressed air..and next I will go through them with a nice wire pipe cleaner, and then air again...plus I will use moly lube...
I agree also with the header studs, it makes it easy to just hang the headers...BUT, its $$ that I really do not have...
to give you guys an idea, not only am I installing $2000 worth of valvetrain upgrades and heads...I also have to replace my t56 and clutch...soo I have to plan accordingly!
Thanks to all who replied!
You got them for a steal...I didnt have the extra cash, so I opted for the head bolts...better than stock, but not the best, right in the middle...so you cant beat that....
also, I am not going to take the heads off...not after all of this freakin work..I already promised myself and my biggest car fan (my dad) that the next thing we both do to my SS is a big cubed motor...
I cleaned the bolt holes with compressed air..and next I will go through them with a nice wire pipe cleaner, and then air again...plus I will use moly lube...
I agree also with the header studs, it makes it easy to just hang the headers...BUT, its $$ that I really do not have...
to give you guys an idea, not only am I installing $2000 worth of valvetrain upgrades and heads...I also have to replace my t56 and clutch...soo I have to plan accordingly!
Thanks to all who replied!
#22
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: pensacola, florida
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
I already have a GM bolt kit that game with my gasket kit...maybe I will just use those, save some $....I am not spraying...
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#23
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ooo header studs... i did that, but my mistake was this:
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
#24
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Margate, FL
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I totally understand and agree with you. I definitely got a great deal which was the #1 reason I listed above. A tip for you when you pull the heads, disconnect the water pump and use a shop vac to suck out antifreeze so that the level goes below the cylinder heads. Another trick is to loosen all of the head bolts, but don't undo them completely. This will allow you to lift the head a half inch of so enough to purge the coolant but very little will go into the bolt holes. Once the coolant stops coming out, you can then fully remove all of the bolts and pull the head. It should make cleaning out the bolt holes much easier.
thanks man
I actually already cleaned all of the coolant out....a few times now...next is to get the gunk out...
this isnt my DD so I am taking my sweet *** time!
Thanks again
#25
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Margate, FL
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by mullenh
hell yes there is a method or sequence and method
. you never done this b4?
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
thats what I have heard, I guess it was a stupid question...but a question none the less
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
and yes it is my first time..im a virgin with this head and cam stuff(cant wait to get f***ed though
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
#26
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Margate, FL
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Ls2Sonoma
ooo header studs... i did that, but my mistake was this:
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
maybe my next build
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#28
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: pensacola, florida
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Wink](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon12.gif)
Originally Posted by Ls2Sonoma
ooo header studs... i did that, but my mistake was this:
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
i just bought 8mm studs that screw right in, no modification required. IF you have the heads off, go big or go home! upgrade to 10mmx1.5 studs. they hold better and from the headers ive seen, fit better. you could even drill the tap the holes yourself if you can drill a straight hole =]
#29
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
I agree also with the header studs, it makes it easy to just hang the headers...BUT, its $$ that I really do not have...
Originally Posted by mullenh
good point but I believe they are talking about using studs for the cylinder heads not the studs for the exhaust