Freak

Hey guys, I got hooker LTs in the mail, but as of yet they dont have a Y pipe available. I'm looking into getting a custom one done up, But dont know for sure what I want as far as size is concerned.

The guy I talked to said that the 2.5 inch Y would support up to 500 HP, be a bit quieter, and cheaper, and also be a little better on low end torque. I know the last 3 are right, but what about the 500 HP capacity? Arent MAC headers Y's 2.5 ichers? I know that two 2.5 pipes flow more than a single 3 inch, so it would make sense that a 2.5 Y would be plenty for the motor to breathe easy...

Has anyone ever changed out a 2.5 inch Y for a 3 inch? did it get you anything?

As of now I am leaning toward a 2.5 inch with 3 inch cutouts just after the collector and in front of the reducers, no cats, and a flowmaster Y collector into the exaust.

I plan to get a Cam in the near future, and heads and LS6 intake in the not so near future.

One other thing, any Idea how to keep this thing semi quiet so I can drive it up to the shop without alerting every cop in the world? I was thinking of gettign a glasspack and cutting it in half, and puting one half on each side...

Any thoughts on the subject?
Thanks in Advance
Troy

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

You still have a pretty stock motor, dual 3" would KILL your torque output. I tried dual 2.5" cutouts past the header collectors when I was only at 400 rwhp with heads/cam and I actually ran slower at the track and lost a TON of torque on the dyno. Big mistake for me, but a learning experience too.

Just get some nice, smooth 3" to 2.5" reducers like they sell in Jegs and fabricate a nice mandrel bent dual 2.5" Y-pipe for the headers. Then use one of those Flowmaster collectors (dual 2.5" inlet, 3.5" outlet) and add a 3.5" midpipe and 3.5" cutout under the rear seat area. Then a 3.5" to 3" reducer to mate to your catback. That would be a sweet setup and be able to handle 500 rwhp no problem.

Tony

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

[quote]Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>You still have a pretty stock motor, dual 3" would KILL your torque output. I tried dual 2.5" cutouts past the header collectors when I was only at 400 rwhp with heads/cam and I actually ran slower at the track and lost a TON of torque on the dyno. Big mistake for me, but a learning experience too.

Just get some nice, smooth 3" to 2.5" reducers like they sell in Jegs and fabricate a nice mandrel bent dual 2.5" Y-pipe for the headers. Then use one of those Flowmaster collectors (dual 2.5" inlet, 3.5" outlet) and add a 3.5" midpipe and 3.5" cutout under the rear seat area. Then a 3.5" to 3" reducer to mate to your catback. That would be a sweet setup and be able to handle 500 rwhp no problem.

Tony</strong><hr></blockquote>

Dude, this made me dizzy <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

Thanks for the info! I'm gonna put it to good use <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />

Freak

Thanks a ton Tony!!!

[ January 05, 2002: Message edited by: Freak ]</p>

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

I agree that the 2.5" y-pipe is plenty for a stock motored car. I also like the idea Tony stated about the 3.5" collector and cutout. I think that will work fine. 2.5" y-pipe is all you need on a stock motored car. I think a 3" y-pipe isn't a bad idea on a heads/cam car though. We will be dynoing Jsears8's car with a 2.5" vs a 3" ORP w/ the FLPs soon. He will have heads/cam at the time.

I'm running a 3" y-pipe now w/ a 3.5" flowmaster collector into a reducer for my Hooker catback. This was designed for my heads/cam setup (using the 3.5" mufflex catback). Tony, do you think I'm loosing any power w/ the 3" with my bolt on setup? If it is, I don't think it is much. Has MTI done dyno testing?