Help with spring install!
Help with spring install! Yet another question about this damn cam install.
Alright i started on the springs today. and successfully swapped out the springs on cylinders 1 and 6 using the TDC method. i turned the crank 90 degrees do change #8 and 5. i got the stock springs off of #8 and then spent almost 2 hours trying to get the new ones on. im using the crane compressor that does 2 at once. the problem i was having is getting the retainer lined up with the valve stem, being very careful not to bend a valvestem. what i mean is can get the retainer to clear the valve stem, but when i try to put the locks on i can get one in, but then i wont have enough room on the other side to get the other in. i tried pushing the one i got in over, but there was still not enough clearence. SO, i noticed that the valves were falling a little bit, so i went out and got just a little air compressor to hold them up.
Now, i have the fitting that goes into the spark plug hole, but now to get the compressed air into the #8 cylinder do i need to turn the crank so the piston is at the bottom? if so, how should i keep the valves from falling? thanks for any help!
Alright i started on the springs today. and successfully swapped out the springs on cylinders 1 and 6 using the TDC method. i turned the crank 90 degrees do change #8 and 5. i got the stock springs off of #8 and then spent almost 2 hours trying to get the new ones on. im using the crane compressor that does 2 at once. the problem i was having is getting the retainer lined up with the valve stem, being very careful not to bend a valvestem. what i mean is can get the retainer to clear the valve stem, but when i try to put the locks on i can get one in, but then i wont have enough room on the other side to get the other in. i tried pushing the one i got in over, but there was still not enough clearence. SO, i noticed that the valves were falling a little bit, so i went out and got just a little air compressor to hold them up.
Now, i have the fitting that goes into the spark plug hole, but now to get the compressed air into the #8 cylinder do i need to turn the crank so the piston is at the bottom? if so, how should i keep the valves from falling? thanks for any help!
I didnt have to rotate the crank whenever I did my springs. I just used the fitting and used the compressed air. As far as lining up the stem, i used a small screwdriver to move the spring whichever way it needed to go without comprimising the valve. Hope this helps.
your not goin to bend the valve with a little screw driver, however you shouldnt need to do that. esp. if you have the air compressor setup. the reason you cant get both locks in is because the retainers arent down enough(or the valve is opening like youve seen). If you hook up the air compressor and fill the cyl, the air will push the piston down to the bottom by itself most times. you wont ever have to move the crank. just hold the valves closed with your hands while someone connects the air line to the adapter hose. this way is much easier then the TDC method (IMHO). after you get that one back together, you'll hook up the air line first and fill the cyl. before taking off the springs/retainers. you prolly knew that just making sure. good luck man.
got ya. thanks for clearing everything up. so im going to need to hold the valves up, since i already have the springs removed for the #8 cylinder? is there an easy way of doing this, because unfortunatly im going to be the only one around tomarrow morning.
well, take off the springs/tool thats in teh way now, and use duct tape around the valve will def. hold them up while you put the air to it. and if you do use some kind of tape, make sure to clean off any residue, and reoil the valve stem afterwords.
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Hope you get it and don't run into any more snags! Looks like this install is kinda being a PITA for you. Good luck; I'll be doing mine in about a month. Right now I'm just trying to find out what problems others have run into before I do. Keep us posted!
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yea its been HORRIBLE. One thing after another. i guess the install varies on the car. we did my buddies about a year ago in a weekend, and ive spent more then a week on this now. but im sure once i fire it up all the headaches, scapes, worries, and pain will go away! provided it runs.
P.S. ill be up at like 9 to start on it tomarrow, and try to get it done before i go into work at 4. After the springs, its just a matter of putting her back together.
yea its been HORRIBLE. One thing after another. i guess the install varies on the car. we did my buddies about a year ago in a weekend, and ive spent more then a week on this now. but im sure once i fire it up all the headaches, scapes, worries, and pain will go away! provided it runs.
P.S. ill be up at like 9 to start on it tomarrow, and try to get it done before i go into work at 4. After the springs, its just a matter of putting her back together.
You will find the valves may drop a little with the TDC method. A pen magnet will pull them right back up though. On the Crane tool, when you first put it on the retainer, finger tighten the nut and then line up the valve stem with the retainer by eye. In the back, you will need to use a mirror. You are correct, don't force anything.
Careful on the compressed air and the piston going to the bottom. I had the air give out on me once and watched in slow motion horror as the valve fell into the cylinder (of comes the head). TDC may still be the best approach for you with the least risk. Other option is to put a 1/8" diameter nylon rope in through the spark plug hole as the pistom comes up to the top leaving some hanging out the spark plug hole, it will push the rope into the valves and hold them up. When you finish, move the piston back and pull out the rope.
Careful on the compressed air and the piston going to the bottom. I had the air give out on me once and watched in slow motion horror as the valve fell into the cylinder (of comes the head). TDC may still be the best approach for you with the least risk. Other option is to put a 1/8" diameter nylon rope in through the spark plug hole as the pistom comes up to the top leaving some hanging out the spark plug hole, it will push the rope into the valves and hold them up. When you finish, move the piston back and pull out the rope.
I've used the TDC method twice and din't have any problems either time. Most of the time the valves stayed up and didn't fall at all, but if they did it was like 1/16". The compressed air should work for you. You can also try putting a little bit of grease on the inside of the locks, makes getting them on the back cylinders alot easier.
yeah, a little dab on the inside of the keeper and it'll stick to the valve in the groove even with teh retainer well below the groove. no more droping them into the valve cover area, or worse, on the floor somewhere.
thanks for the help guys. i finally finshed up the springs today. that number 8 cylinder was a BITCH!!! i probably spent at least 2 hours on the one alone. the rest were a breeeze with the air compressor. tomarrow ill start putting her back together.
Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
got ya. thanks for clearing everything up. so im going to need to hold the valves up, since i already have the springs removed for the #8 cylinder? is there an easy way of doing this, because unfortunatly im going to be the only one around tomarrow morning.
Glad you got it worked out.
The proper way to do it for future refrence for everyone is to hold the valves up.
Using compressed air is the best way IMO
Dont use a POS compressor with no tank on it and you wont lose air and have a valve drop. Thats like urban legend stuff but I guess if your using a compressor made for a nail gun it could happen.
So eveyone know what a compressor does here it is. It compresses air. If you dont have a tank on the compressor then you have no place to store compressed air. The tiny little 1/2 gallon tank on a nailgun compressor can not hold enough air to blow your nose let alone store usable air.
Little common sence goes a long way with an install.
The crane tool is the best tool on the planet for doing valve springs.
If you have to uee the TDC method then shove some nylon rope in there to help yourself out. IT keeps the valve from falling a little and preventing you from putting the retainer back on. Like this guy had trouble with.
TO many people using the TDC method improperly, someones gonna drop a valve all the way and be up the creek
The proper way to do it for future refrence for everyone is to hold the valves up.
Using compressed air is the best way IMO
Dont use a POS compressor with no tank on it and you wont lose air and have a valve drop. Thats like urban legend stuff but I guess if your using a compressor made for a nail gun it could happen.
So eveyone know what a compressor does here it is. It compresses air. If you dont have a tank on the compressor then you have no place to store compressed air. The tiny little 1/2 gallon tank on a nailgun compressor can not hold enough air to blow your nose let alone store usable air.
Little common sence goes a long way with an install.
The crane tool is the best tool on the planet for doing valve springs.
If you have to uee the TDC method then shove some nylon rope in there to help yourself out. IT keeps the valve from falling a little and preventing you from putting the retainer back on. Like this guy had trouble with.
TO many people using the TDC method improperly, someones gonna drop a valve all the way and be up the creek
if you guys are worrying about a valve dropping. stuff the cylinder with a clean thin rope and turn the crank by hand until you feel the piston stop. the valve isnt going anywhere
