Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I'll agree up to a point. If you take a Cam that has -lets say a 114 duration installed at say-110,then take that same Cam and have it ground at a 110 duration and install it straight up.You will see more torque everywhere on the 110.This is on a mid 22x Cam. If tested alot of Cams and always learning more by hard facts from testing. Alot of theory here doesn't actually work,some does The only way to tell is to test the theory on a motor.I'm starting to give up on all this math

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

You must not pay attention to the Engine Masters competitions over the past few years. In case you don't know, they take an average hp reading from 2500-6500 rpm. HP under the curve is king. Killer heads rule. This year they imposed a 10.5:1 maximum comrpession ratio. Guess what cam LSA was in the winner engine this year? 106LSA in a small block Ford running CHI Cleveland heads. Last year's winner ran a 108LSA cam. Kinda throws your theory out the window, huh?

GOaT Cheese

I pay very close attention to EM, in fact Kaase with his #1 qualifying 430 inch Poncho is right up my ally. I've built countless old school Pontiacs. Anyway back on topic. I was under the inpression that we were talking about street engines, and not maximum effort applications. You must agree, that even at 10.5:1 limit, the engine masters are maximum effort.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

well if thats you in yr sig, it doesnt seem you care

pdd

iTrader: (3)

i hope to prove you wrong with my cam

GOaT Cheese

No, that would be awesome! I love learning new stuff, especially when it comes to engine theory. If your cam works good I will re-think my entire approach to engine building. I have always run wide LSA's in my Pontiacs, and they always ran good, but if tightening up will net more power, then I'm all for it. I guess I just never thought about it before, but as long as the intake closing event is in the right spot for a descent DCR, then I guess the scavenging benefits of a tighter LSA will only help, at higher RPM anyway, above 2500 or so.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

you don't know much of the 97-99 ls1 engines, do you?

GOaT Cheese

On the contrary. I shifted my '00 SS at 6800 with LS6 top end, it ran 11.70's on the motor, 10.60's on a 200 progressive at 7300rpm. You think the LSX series engines are rpm limited? The factory red line on the LS2 is 6600. The LS6 would clip to 6800 without thinking about it. Now if you are talking bone stock LS1's here, you're right, anything above 6000 or so is wasting time. But I doubt we are talking stock are we? The original thread was regarding a very aggressive cam change in an LS1, now, why wouldn't you spin it higher than 6300?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Pdd, there's a difference between mindlessly whacking the rev limiter every time you drive and having solid control over how you drive. I don't think I even hit 5000 RPM on that burnout. I don't want my engine to spin a rod bearing or come apart but that doesn't mean I'm going to baby the car.

Goatcheese - I know my engine is not RPM limited. That's proven by the scores of people running 7K + cam only. What I'm saying is, and what I am sure others will tell you, is 97-99 LS1s are notorious for having weak rod bolts. What stresses rod bolts the most? High RPM. If I keep the RPM at a reasonable level, I am less likely to have a catastrophic failure. And to anyone who says to just change the rod bolts - I took a few high performance engine maching classes in college, enough to know that changing rod bolts without resizing the big end of the rod is a BAD idea. So the bottom end has to stay bone stock for now.

PREDATOR-Z

With regard to changing rod bolts, what you learned before is correct on "old School" motors. However the LSx has cracked rods and you can change the bolts one by one with the motor in car with no effect. The bolts to use are the Katech high tensile bolts which are a carbon copy of the original, just much stronger.
Some poeple use ARP as a swap but those can alter the roundness of the rod due to their thicker bolt head design.
I've changed and used Katech bolts, they 0 side effect on 2 motors I've used them in.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

LS1Formulation,

Just an FYI. I ordered a 224/228 .581/.588 110+0 from CompCams (through Thunder Racing), and my grind was actually 225.5/229.8 .579/.587 110.5-0.7, so essentially a 226/230. As you may know, and which I just recently found out, CompCams tends to grind large on duration. I probably will not have my car on the road until the weather is nice. That assumes winter actually arrives in MI. If you do indeed go with an actual 226/230 grind, let me know how it turns out for you.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

there you go, your 2000 block. the 97-99 have poor oil return (try searching, you will see what i am talking about) thanks to an oil return slot in the back of the block that is obviously inadequate for high rpm use. that is why it was enlarged on the 00+ block. then through more road racing gm realized with proper oiling that the rod bolts became the weak link, so they redesigned them and replaced them on the 01+ shortblocks.

your implication that this guy is "ok to spin 7k+ rpm" on a stock 98 shortblock is a very ill-informed statement. should you research these engines more, you will know that an ls1 is not an ls1 is not an ls1...

GOaT Cheese

Okay, thanks for the info. I hope no one blew their engine due to my advice. I didn't realize that there was a casting revision in '00+ blocks.

CHRISPY

A couple degrees difference duration on the cam card versus what you ordered is nothing really.