I will jump in with my 0.02
y2k SS A4 ran one of the ""other"" pulley over 1 1/2 year waisted severraall hundreds and uncountable hours fighting KR 3.9 at 4k and 1.9 all way up to 6250 and hestiation at 52-5300 rpm, but car did pull good, THE SAME shop
installed ASP pulley and did nothening else and all hestiation gone and less than 0.9 KR at any RPH
<img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" /> <img src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" />

TO install on M6 put in high gear
to install on A4 on bottom of bell houseing small plug about the size of a silver dollar pop it out and hold the fly wheel with a big screw driver [or buy the rite fly wheel locking tool and remove the starter to insert ]

Tighten the bolt to 37 lb ft. Then rotate the bolt an additional 140 degrees more.
I would mark the bolt and using a compass, mark 90 degrees and 180 degrees on the crank. Then split the difference between the 90 & 180 and put another mark on the crank. That would be 135 degrees. Turn the mark on the bolt to the 135 and a hair more for 140. If you can actually mark 140 degrees with the compass, do that and then you won't have to estimate the additional 5 degree turn of the bolt.
You are using "torque to yield" bolts and the 140 degree turn is stretching the bolt to it's yield length.

 

I just read in the new GM high tech that most all LS1s get severe knock from any crank pulley between 5200-5300 rpms. I really don't believe that.

Anybody try 9ball's knock box after getting KR from a pulley? Wonder if that would fix it.

RPM WS6, I emailed you about the pulley...if you're unsure about it I'd like to buy it.

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" />

 

I have a ASP pulley on order for my 01. So the other night I was looking at the balancer to see what kind of puller I would need and I've seen some post that say not to use a claw type puller because it could damage the stock balancer. So what are you guys using to pull them?? I also have an installer for a smallblock chevy, but I'm not sure if the threads are gonna be the same size in the LS1. So do I need to go buy some different tools? if so what kind? or try to find a shop to install it? I'm not sure if there are any shops around here that will/or can.

 

RPM WS6: No probs, wish I could be more help...

Matt: You need a three-jaw puller. Go to any Discount Auto Parts, they all carry a nice, cheap, sturdy one. Mine was $20. I did end up bending the main shaft of the puller to get the pulley off, but it broke free just before the puller gave up the ghost. Make sure you put the jaws on the inside of the stock pulley, you'll see the tab-slots where the puller seats itself to yank that stock pulley off. It's actually a snap, nothing to it. I got my original pulley off without damaging it whatsoever.

To keep the pulley from turning while we were torquing it off, we backed the alternator mounting bolt out of its bracket on the front of the motor. We inserted a dummy bolt (one that wasn't going to be re-installed on the car) into the bracket hole, just shy of where the bracket threads begin (it was a pretty deep bolt). We then took the old belt and doubled it back over itself on the pulley, and hooked it on the bolt sticking out of the bracket hole. You then turn the crank pulley till the belt is taut... and then you can torque the **** out of the crank bolt to get the crank bolt loose and to hole the pulley steady while you're backing it off the crank snout. You can reverse the belt and hook it around for when you tighten the pulley back on, too... it works in both directions.

Best 'o luck to ya...

 

Thanks!! I have the three jaw puller, I just didn't want to risk damaging anything on the stock pulley in case I ever had to put it back on.
Will I need an installation tool to put the new one on?,like the old style small/big blocks, or just torque it down??

[ February 15, 2002: Message edited by: Matt 01SS ]</p>

 

JimTA::i was told that also and that some with stock pulley but most drivers do not know any thing about KR
I beleave NINE BALL'S KOBox will help,I have one but have not install it

 

[quote]Originally posted by JimTA:
<strong>I just read in the new GM high tech that most all LS1s get severe knock from any crank pulley between 5200-5300 rpms. I really don't believe that.

Anybody try 9ball's knock box after getting KR from a pulley? Wonder if that would fix it.

RPM WS6, I emailed you about the pulley...if you're unsure about it I'd like to buy it.

<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[Burnout]" /> </strong><hr></blockquote>

Jim, check your mail <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

 

I would like to install an ASP pulley on my car when I have the cam changed next week. However, before I spend the money on it, I want to review it. Can anybody give me their web site so I can look it over ? Please e-mail me at dkazimir@comcast.com if you can.

 

I installed the pulley correctly and used the correct specs while doing it. The pulley came off of a friend of mines car and his never had any problems with it <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">

Im just glad my car is back to running right again <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">

 

Dang, this is the first time I've heard of anyone having problems with an ASP pulley. I've heard of SLP and Whisper problems. My buddy and I both installed ASPs last Christmas and neither one of us have had any problems.

Brad

 

Here's another way to keep the flywheel from turning on your M6. Remove the starter and the small dust shield and you'll notice a small hole drilled in the flywheel at uniform intervals on the engine side near the ring gear. I inserted the shank end of a letter O (.316 dia.) drill bit into this hole, then slowly rotated the balancer bolt until the drill contacted the block. I've had the balancer on/off several times and this method works fine.

 

"I just read in the new GM high tech that most all LS1s get severe knock from any crank pulley between 5200-5300 rpms."

<img src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" border="0" alt="[bullshit]" /> If the pulley and install are good then there should be no KR from it.

 

When I installed my Hotcam, I also put in an ASP pulley reusing the old bolt and had NO KR for 4 months. Just to be safe I finally got around to installing a new bolt and STILL no KR, so I would guess if you have KR from a pulley install then you must have done something wrong. The only side effect I had was a slow, stock tach that got worse.

 

I had no KR from my ASP pullie for two years. But recently I had terrible KR problems when I banged gears . My pullie was separating , took it off and car is now PERFECT. But I will be getting a new ASP pullie, they appear to be one piece now on the new model.

Paul

 

We I had my shop we did quite a bit of dyno testing on four brands of pulleys on the same car for one of the companies.
Stock no knock
Brand "A" no knock
Brand "H" small knock <2
Brand "S" lots of knock way down on power
Brand "W" Knock and the pins backed out quick and broke
I can't say the names but <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Mike Licht

[ February 25, 2002: Message edited by: Ramchargers ]</p>