Cam selection advice
01-11-2007, 01:42 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by Toasty
If I can still hit 400whp, then I'll probably be fine with it. Like I said, anything that peaks over 6500 isn't really useful to me. I'd prefer 6400 peak on the Torquer, I think.
The cam makes power and is a proven performer.
01-11-2007, 01:45 PM
#42
Originally Posted by RAACCR
Comp XER 224/228 110 +2 would close the intake valve at 40 ABDC and be very stong througout the rpm range, but should be shifted by 6500rpm.
Comp XER 228/232 110 +2 would close at 42 ABDC and pull higher & stronger at the top end, without giving up too much down low. Probably a pretty good compromise, especially for a later model shortblock that can rev a little higher (better rod bolts and oiling compared to early LS1 motors).
If you want the ultimate top end monster, call any of the popular supporting vendors and ask 'em for the biggest bumpstick they've got that will fit under stock heads without fly cutting.
Comp XER 228/232 110 +2 would close at 42 ABDC and pull higher & stronger at the top end, without giving up too much down low. Probably a pretty good compromise, especially for a later model shortblock that can rev a little higher (better rod bolts and oiling compared to early LS1 motors).
If you want the ultimate top end monster, call any of the popular supporting vendors and ask 'em for the biggest bumpstick they've got that will fit under stock heads without fly cutting.
the closer you are at 40* ABDC the lower your DCR is to make more torque
the closer you are to 45* ABDC your DCR is higher to make more top end power...
I like low end tq..
01-11-2007, 01:47 PM
#43
Originally Posted by xxtheonlyxx
I was in the same boat as you about a year ago. After talking to Pradator-Z we came up with a few numbers that helped out a lot. If you are looking for a "universal cam" go with the 224/228 114 XER comp cam (although in my opinion the Patrick G cam mentioned above is much better!!). I say universal because you rarely hear someone saying its too big. Plus you will not have to worry about the cars street manners as much. If you drive a car with a bigger cam at times it will try to jump forward on you (buck/surge). It kind of feels like someone tapped your gas pedal unexpectedly and gave you a quick jolt slightly forward/ backward. You also have to take vibration and noise into account when you pick your cam. I have sat in bigger cammed cars that will shake the change out of your pocket. .
If it helps I went with a custom grind 228/232 .588/.595 110+1 HR lobed (basically XER) comp cam. It got me 420rwhp 371rwtq on motor through an A4. The cam is a little harder on streetability, but most people that drive my car dont notice once the car warms up. It does vibrate more than it use to, and I cant hear my radio, but I got use to it. The only problem with cams is that once you buy one you usually want to go bigger. The best suggestion is to ride along or drive a cammed car. You will be suprised how many people on here in your area will help you. Oh, and a good tuner goes a long way with cams. If you go bigger make sure you have one before you have it installed. Hope that helps
If it helps I went with a custom grind 228/232 .588/.595 110+1 HR lobed (basically XER) comp cam. It got me 420rwhp 371rwtq on motor through an A4. The cam is a little harder on streetability, but most people that drive my car dont notice once the car warms up. It does vibrate more than it use to, and I cant hear my radio, but I got use to it. The only problem with cams is that once you buy one you usually want to go bigger. The best suggestion is to ride along or drive a cammed car. You will be suprised how many people on here in your area will help you. Oh, and a good tuner goes a long way with cams. If you go bigger make sure you have one before you have it installed. Hope that helps
yea your cam maybe a little too big for my application.. good info in there though
01-11-2007, 01:49 PM
#44
Originally Posted by 98Z28MASS
you need to make a decision though, do you want good low end torque and good low end-mid range power or do you want to make 400+ rwhp on stock heads? This will determine your cam selection. If you dont think you will be spinning the motor to 6500+ rpms then go with a smaller cam, like say an fm-13, 228/232, tr228, g5x2, torquer v2/v3 etc. If you want to have 400+ rwhp cam only then go with a g5x3 or ms3, but I would personally choose the G5X3 out of those two.
i want a cam to make me good low end mid range power.. and i think that i can acheive 400 at the rear with my mods in my sig on my NON P&P HEADS...
spinning the motor to 6200 - 6400 RPMs is fine.
what cam now?
01-11-2007, 01:59 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
I am liking the specs on the Patrick G torquer cam. Who makes prolly a stupid question there
Ok please can you school me on the different lobes. What makes an LSK lobe different from a XR, XR-E lobe??? so i a 110 LSA.. ok that would be a really rough idle, not a problem.. but why is it advanced 4*???? what does that benefit me?Hammer
01-11-2007, 02:50 PM
#46
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i want a cam to make me good low end mid range power.. and i think that i can acheive 400 at the rear with my mods in my sig on my NON P&P HEADS...
spinning the motor to 6200 - 6400 RPMs is fine.
what cam now?
spinning the motor to 6200 - 6400 RPMs is fine.
what cam now?
I would say if you get your throttle body ported, toss on a 25% pulley, and a torquer cam you should hit 400 rwhp. Here are some threads you should look at though. I personally would go with the g5x3 as it will make more power but thats just me:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=g5x3
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=torquer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=torquer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=torquer
Just to give you a roundabout idea of what you should expect.
01-11-2007, 04:06 PM
#47
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i was going to go with a 3.73 gear. i have had the 4.10 in my GT, my buddy has it in his 97TA. Too much i want to be able to cruise on the highway at 70 not be spinning 2500 RPMs.....
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
When i say roll racing, those races usualyl take place below or right at the PB on our car.. It is right under the curve. SO i want a cam that can compensate the power that is loss right under the PB. SO with the 3.73 and a decent cam it will make up for that little loss time to get it going. That is what i meant.
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
What makes an LSK lobe different from a XR, XR-E lobe???
XE: .568"
XE-R: .581"
LSK: .636"
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
so i a 110 LSA.. ok that would be a really rough idle, not a problem..
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
but why is it advanced 4*???? what does that benefit me?
01-11-2007, 04:08 PM
#48
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
i want a cam to make me good low end mid range power.. and i think that i can acheive 400 at the rear with my mods in my sig on my NON P&P HEADS...
spinning the motor to 6200 - 6400 RPMs is fine.
what cam now?
spinning the motor to 6200 - 6400 RPMs is fine.
what cam now?
01-11-2007, 04:09 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
the closer you are at 40* ABDC the lower your DCR is to make more torque
the closer you are to 45* ABDC your DCR is higher to make more top end power...
I like low end tq..
the closer you are to 45* ABDC your DCR is higher to make more top end power...
I like low end tq..
You have these mixed up .. with the same Static compression the earlier 40 IVC will produce more dynamic compression compared to the 45 . So to get the 45's IVC DCR where the 40's IVC DCR is will require more SCR . Thinner thickness headgaskets or small combustion chambers or the best combination { both } allows you to do this.
01-11-2007, 06:42 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
the closer you are at 40* ABDC the lower your DCR is to make more torque
the closer you are to 45* ABDC your DCR is higher to make more top end power...
I like low end tq..
the closer you are to 45* ABDC your DCR is higher to make more top end power...
I like low end tq..
You got it half right...
Closing the intake valve earlier (like in the 40* ABDC example) gives you a higher DCR. It will also keep your power peak lower in the rpm range (good low end torque, but less top end power).
Closing the intake valve later (like in the 45* ABDC example) gives you a lower DCR. It also raises your power peak in the rpm range (better top end power, but at the expense of some bottom end torque).
01-11-2007, 08:50 PM
#52
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My head hurts...lol.
I really think you would be happy with a tr224 cam or similar cam. My goals were the same as yours. I drive it mostly on the street so I need the torque down low. Mine dyno'd at 383 RWHP without a ported throttle body. My tuner put a conservative tune in and said he could easilly find another 5-7 RWHP but I was happy with it the way it was. It put down over 380 RWTQ. It has a badass idle, still gets good gas mileage, and traps 116 at the track. My cam is actually smaller than the TR224 but has more overlap so it has a little rougher idle. Whenever I post a video of the car idling everyone thinks it is a bigger cam. My car has every option and NO weight reduction (I even ran with the spare tire / jack in there) You could break into the 11s with a 224 cam / bolt on car with good tires and a good driver (assuming your rear end holds up). My cam is an old cam - there are better cams now. However, I think it is hard to beat the 224 for all around competence.
I really think you would be happy with a tr224 cam or similar cam. My goals were the same as yours. I drive it mostly on the street so I need the torque down low. Mine dyno'd at 383 RWHP without a ported throttle body. My tuner put a conservative tune in and said he could easilly find another 5-7 RWHP but I was happy with it the way it was. It put down over 380 RWTQ. It has a badass idle, still gets good gas mileage, and traps 116 at the track. My cam is actually smaller than the TR224 but has more overlap so it has a little rougher idle. Whenever I post a video of the car idling everyone thinks it is a bigger cam. My car has every option and NO weight reduction (I even ran with the spare tire / jack in there) You could break into the 11s with a 224 cam / bolt on car with good tires and a good driver (assuming your rear end holds up). My cam is an old cam - there are better cams now. However, I think it is hard to beat the 224 for all around competence.
01-11-2007, 11:34 PM
#53
ok i am going to blow my brains out with all the numbers. 
Some one needs to just decidr for me... LOL
My car is a M6....
Is it better to have a bigger lift? How does that benefit you?
I am really having a hard time deciding a cam for my application. I have played with at DCR table, but it all is gibberish to me i have no idea what tab to be looking at, and what the number really mean
But if i had to make a choice here it is..
224/228 (XE-R or LSK) Which would be better with STOCK NON P&P HEADS? and i have no idea what LSA to choose. And i dont know what degree i want...
More help in the right direction please
Am i gettin closer
Some one needs to just decidr for me... LOL
My car is a M6....
Is it better to have a bigger lift? How does that benefit you?
I am really having a hard time deciding a cam for my application. I have played with at DCR table, but it all is gibberish to me
i have no idea what tab to be looking at, and what the number really mean But if i had to make a choice here it is..
224/228 (XE-R or LSK) Which would be better with STOCK NON P&P HEADS? and i have no idea what LSA to choose. And i dont know what degree i want...
More help in the right direction please
Am i gettin closer
01-12-2007, 09:40 AM
#54
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I would go with the Torquer v3, but I don't want LSK lobes. I want to save my springs the abuse and last longer, so I want something with XE-R.
Torchd, notice that LSK lobes (Torquer 3) have alot higher lift for the same duration as XER's (Torquer 2). They will pound on the springs more, and require a double spring setup.
Torchd, notice that LSK lobes (Torquer 3) have alot higher lift for the same duration as XER's (Torquer 2). They will pound on the springs more, and require a double spring setup.
01-12-2007, 01:45 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Toasty
I would go with the Torquer v3, but I don't want LSK lobes. I want to save my springs the abuse and last longer, so I want something with XE-R.
Torchd, notice that LSK lobes (Torquer 3) have alot higher lift for the same duration as XER's (Torquer 2). They will pound on the springs more, and require a double spring setup.
Torchd, notice that LSK lobes (Torquer 3) have alot higher lift for the same duration as XER's (Torquer 2). They will pound on the springs more, and require a double spring setup.
Would a Torquer v3 be too big for my stock heads??
i was thinkng this:
224/228 XE-R lobes.. Still can not decide the LSA yet. i am not gettign the overlap and degreeing. and i need to see where i want my DCR to be..
