Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

just got my new cam and lifters in, will it tick like hell?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-15-2007, 06:53 AM
  #21  
12 Second Club
 
cowboysfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Corpus Christi
Posts: 1,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

good job, glad all went well. any sound clips? ses is going to come on and stay on till u retune due to cam install. once u break-in valves/cam dont wot till u find out A/F ratio. u dont want to burn ur piston if ur running lean, to rich can fouls plugs so get her tuned.



fuerzaws6
Old 01-15-2007, 07:07 AM
  #22  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is impossible because upon install they will bleed. Only way this happens is if the p-rods are too tall to begin with and are trying to colapse the lifter before they bleed.
Lifters (Comp or stock) should be cleaned outside with mineral spirit to remove coating and then dipped in light oil 1hr or so before install.
The information doesn't appear to be consistent between manufacturers, but the GM service manual does not say to clean new lifters in mineral spirits. Rick Morel told me "the most important thing was to work in some new oil in the lower roller bearings (which is what was done here). The body itself does not need to be filled." Here is what I found:

From comp cams:

It is not necessary to “pre-pump” hydraulic lifters full of engine
oil prior to installation and valve adjustment. It is actually undesirable to do
so as the “pumped up” lifters will cause the valves to open during the
adjustment process, rather than positioning the valve lifter plunger in its
operating position as it is supposed to do. “Pre-soaking” hydraulic lifters
in a bath of engine oil is a good idea, but is not mandatory. It does ensure
that the lifters are adequately lubricated on their outer surfaces prior to
installation in the engine. It may also result in a quieter engine start up as
the oil in the bath may displace some air from
the lifters plunger reservoir.

Crane cams

When installing brand new Crane roller lifters, you must wash them thoroughly in fresh, clean solvent, allow them to dry and then soak them in the same oil that you'll have in your engine. The new needle bearing roller assembly found in any new roller lifters is coated with grease for assembly and rust prevention purposes.? This thick assembly grease can hinder needle movement and prevent the flow of fresh oil to this critical area upon initial start-up. A few extra minutes to carefully wash these parts can increase the overall longevity of your roller lifters.

Also from Crane:

Prime a Hydraulic lifter? - Remember the guy who told you that you must primea hydraulic lifter prior to installation. The old story was that you should soak the lifters in oil overnight and be ?pumped up? with a pushrod by hand prior to installing. Don't do it! This may cause the lifter to act as a solid and actually prevent the obtaining of proper preload.

From Edelbrock:

Install the lifters using a high quality engine oil. Briefly
dip the lifters in fresh, clean oil just before installation.
Do not soak the lifters for a long period of time before
installation.
Old 01-15-2007, 07:15 AM
  #23  
TECH Senior Member
 
PREDATOR-Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes on 16 Posts

Default

Yeah, I hear you.
I never said anything about "pumping up" lifters as in old school flat tappets. Just cleaning protective film and soaking 1hr prior to install in light oil. You'll see the lifters releasing bubbles, but I never pump the plunger.
Same goes for cam, it should be cleaned, then lubed. I use oil because I do it all rather quickly. But if you have long interval between install and fire up, then better use cam lube.
Old 01-15-2007, 08:03 AM
  #24  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
 
98Camarod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

An easy way to get the air out of the system is to let it run and fill the radiator up with the cap off. It will keep sucking it in, you think its full and it still takes more of it. It took me about ten minutes for it to finally overflow.
Old 01-15-2007, 08:05 AM
  #25  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
But if you have long interval between install and fire up, then better use cam lube.
I have found the best stuff out there is the Redline Assembly Lube. As soon as the oil hits it it dissolves and there is no particulate to get into the oil system or get flushed through bearings, etc. I know some of the builders here use it but find it surprising more guys aren't using it. Its stays where you put it until it is flushed by oil.
Old 01-15-2007, 09:06 PM
  #26  
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
 
thehammer69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by vettenuts
I have found the best stuff out there is the Redline Assembly Lube. As soon as the oil hits it it dissolves and there is no particulate to get into the oil system or get flushed through bearings, etc. I know some of the builders here use it but find it surprising more guys aren't using it. Its stays where you put it until it is flushed by oil.
I agree. I have a small container of it on standby for my build.

Hammer



Quick Reply: just got my new cam and lifters in, will it tick like hell?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:23 AM.