Anyone had the oil consumption test done at the dealer? My car burns almost a qt per 1500 miles. I race it weekly . Smokes pretty good on decel. Do you think this is excessive usage? What do the dealers say warrants repairs in the oil consumption tests? I appreciate any input.

Paul

 

Come on guys. Im fairly new to this board and maybe its been talked to death, but Id really appreciate some input

Paul

 

That's really wierd paul.
I dont know why some of these cars burn oil
and other's dont. Mine never seems to use any.
Ive never had to add any between oil changes.
SOme one help the guy out.
TTT

 

NastySSoo, I believe the whole problem lies with the pcv system sipping on oil from inadequate valve cover baffling, the reason some do and some dont burn oil is because when oil is burned it sludges up rings in piston lands, than rings stick and dont seal right this causes blowby and that aggravates oiling into pcv system. Some people keep things free with there driving style, or engine tolerances may differ, causing susceptability to burning oil. I believe in basic approaches to things so here is what i reccomend you do: 1. perform top engine decarb clean(see post on site about this) 2.Install 1 fuel filter between pcv valve and intake pcv port(this requires 3/8"inlet/outlet autozone filter and some 3/8" fuel rubber line to loop for clean installation to valve and port) 3. change oil document mileage and any more than a quart in 3000 miles means you have a bigger problem.
This filter can be checked by trying to blow thru it every few weeks, if oil clogs it you know pcv system not rings/bore is the source of problem.
BTW i have done this to my own and i will post results.

 

Paul, I have a 2000 SS with the same problem. My dealer told me that I have to burn 1 quart per 800 to 1000 miles to be considered for excessive oil consumption. I am not burning that much, I am more like 1 quart every 1500 to 2000 mi. They faxed me service bulleten, the service bulleten states that high RPM driving makes it burn faster. I have found that I burn synthetic faster the dyno Castorol or Valvoline. I am not sweating it because it's not getting worse. But I don't have the smoke on deceleleration. I have been told that smoke on decel is a symptom of worn valve guides. But check that out with a second source, because I am not certain about that.

Good luck

 

Paul,
I had the oil consumption test done at the dealer. More than 1 quart per 1k miles is considered excessive by GM. You have to get your oil level checked by the dealer to start the test and then go back every time you need to add oil. They measure and document the amount added. This has to be done for 3k miles. If you burn over 3 quarts in 3k miles then they have to do something about it.

If you get the test done, I would recommend you insist watching the tech measure and check the oil. They will try to cheat. I had to just about measure the oil myself while the tech watched.

I burned 3.25 quarts during the test. That dealer wouldn't do anything but give me the run around after the test was complete. So I took the receipts to a different dealer and they installed a new crate engine within a week.

I have noticed that Valvoline synthetic smokes less on decel and seems to be consumed less than Mobile One synthetic.

 

Thanks for the help! It seems I started burning more and got the smoke on decel after high RPMs after I installed the headers and ORP? Maybe just a coincidence.No smoke at all when I start it. I'm waiting for my H/C package from MTI to arrive soon, and wonder if the new heads will correct it or not? I think I will take LS1derfuls advice also.I'm open to anymore suggestions.

Thanks, Paul

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastySS00:
<strong>Thanks for the help! It seems I started burning more and got the smoke on decel after high RPMs after I installed the headers and ORP? Maybe just a coincidence.No smoke at all when I start it. I'm waiting for my H/C package from MTI to arrive soon, and wonder if the new heads will correct it or not? I think I will take LS1derfuls advice also.I'm open to anymore suggestions.

Thanks, Paul</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The smoke on decel is oil in your intake being lifted into air stream from very high vacuum in intake on deaccelleration. This to me confirms my estimation of what the problem with pcv system is.
BTW i am a GM tech. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

PCV mod?
zombiedude
TECH Fanatic
Member # 2439

posted February 24, 2002 10:30 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been reading on the oil use thing since I have 1. Seems to be PCV in most cases. I think I came up with another mod. I took a crankcase filter out of an older chevy breather and removed the element, using 1/3rd of it and puting it in the tube rite before the pcv vave. Pullout pcv valve and put it in. Not stuffing but making it fit. 1 oil change on record but NO OIL USE! Change element every oil change. Monitor at ur driving habits. hopes this helps!

35th SS LE vert 325hp M6/hurst

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 142 | From: Denham Springs, LA | Registered: Jan 2002 | IP: Logged

I posted this in feb. Today I checked my oil at the shop and it's rite on the full mark. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> It was using oil so i took off the inlet pipe to look inside and seen oil fan out from the pcv hole. There was the oil problem. When I put in the element, I blew in the line to make sure it still breathed. It seems to be working very well. I like cheap fixes & mods. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

I really appreciate the help. I'll let you know how I make out.

Paul

 

Here's my take on the pcv filter mod.

Three months ago I prowled through Pep Boys and found an air filter for filtering the PCV line. The filter is a small acrylic bottle, filter and separator used in an air compressor-line for spray painting. It cost $19.95 and is a Camel 56-100 (a/k/a AMFLO 3000 RET) without the automatic drain, so it has a small manual drain at the bottom of the clear polycarbonate bottle. It is designed to filter solids AND liquids from air, so it should work better than fuel filters designed to separate solids from fuel.
The actual filtration is through a tiny 3/4" tall replaceable poly-spun filter and the polycarbonate container is about 3" tall and 1 and 1/2" in diameter. The oil and aerosols separate into the bottom.
I also bought 2 brass 3/8" fittings that are made by Camel and sold alongside the filter, and a brass 3/8" splicing fitting, and some screw clamps. The Camel filter with auto drain has the same part # (?!?) and I doubt if this would work in the PCV system, (which is a vacuum system and not pressurized like an air compressor) so be sure you buy one with the black plastic screw and thread lines that show through at the bottom.
When full, the polycarbonate container will hold maybe 2-3 ounces of oil. I temporarily mounted it with cable ties to the A/C condenser so I could see it and drain it. I used an extra 30" of 3/8" gas line tubing, spliced into the existing line, which I twisted 180 degrees over to reach toward the new filter.
My '98 car never did ping or use a lot of oil but I was interested in the filtering the PCV line after reading Steve Hovis’ well-illustrated website about PCV filters. Oil has no octane rating and collects in the throttle bore. Steve, thanks very much for the concept. Anyone with pinging should try this "Camel filter" mod. It should result in a slight increase in octane for anyone though, and it is super-easy to do, in about 1/2 hour, for about $30.00 total.
This mod accomplishes more than a new PCV valve because it is an actual filter, and does not cause a reduction in air flow, which I suspect is all that the new GM PCV valve does.
I thought others would like to try it out.

A month ago I found the better-quality metal-bowl filter, and I haven't bought it yet. The Camel polycarbonate bowl is rated only to 120 degrees so I am going to buy the more expensive metal bowl aerosol-separator soon from this link: http://www.airhosereels.com/1136-8.html

The filtrate I have collected smells a lot like gas, looks like brownish oil, and has an extremely small amount of fine white ash in it too. After 500O miles I have about 3 oz. of fluid. My engine doesn't blow a lot past the rings or pull past the valve guides I guess. It uses about 1 quart of synthetic 0-30 oil every 3-4,000 miles.

 

I'm 100% stock (1998 WS6 T/A) with 62,000 miles. I always fill my new bottles with the old oil when I'm done changing it and I still fill all the bottles up except about 2 inches in the last bottle. Which to me means I don't burn a drop of oil between my 3,000 mile changes. That 2 inches is the oil that remains in the engine and filter.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by zombiedude:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by zombiedude:
<strong>PCV mod?
zombiedude
TECH Fanatic
Member # 2439

posted February 24, 2002 10:30 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have been reading on the oil use thing since I have 1. Seems to be PCV in most cases. I think I came up with another mod. I took a crankcase filter out of an older chevy breather and removed the element, using 1/3rd of it and puting it in the tube rite before the pcv vave. Pullout pcv valve and put it in. Not stuffing but making it fit. 1 oil change on record but NO OIL USE! Change element every oil change. Monitor at ur driving habits. hopes this helps!

35th SS LE vert 325hp M6/hurst

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posts: 142 | From: Denham Springs, LA | Registered: Jan 2002 | IP: Logged

I posted this in feb. Today I checked my oil at the shop and it's rite on the full mark. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> It was using oil so i took off the inlet pipe to look inside and seen oil fan out from the pcv hole. There was the oil problem. When I put in the element, I blew in the line to make sure it still breathed. It seems to be working very well. I like cheap fixes & mods. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I like mine because it looks stock. No cutting or modifying of pcv hose. Just insert into the hose. just my .02 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">now the dealer told me that they do replace the 2nd compression rings and something on the oil ring. they said they get sucked in at high rpms. Just relaying info.