I was real excited about four hours ago. I had just finished pulling the hotcam, and installing a TR 224 112 cam, 918 springs, and an ARE oil pump. Then I went to press the ASP pulley on...

I had always noticed flakes aroung the crank snout every time I had removed the pulley in the past. Little did I realize, the crank threads were shredding away. Today, the crank threads are completely gone. There's no way to put the pulley on. Looks like I'll need a new crank. I feel like I'm about to vomit.

 

Too bad man. That sucks. <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

Has anyone ever heli-coiled the crank bolt threads? Maybe you can rethread it with a bigger size and get a bigger bolt. Those two routes might be worth looking into as you should be able to do them while the crank is in the car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Johnnie

<small>[ March 27, 2002, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: XLR8NSS ]</small>

 

I dont like to hear that. How many times have you had the pully off? Did you ever cross thread it?

Paul

 

Hope you find its not what you think, but if it is, I certainly feel for you. Ive dropped valves and had major malfunctions at least 4 times now in my LS1, and I know its a really sickening feeling. Take a break, go get some good dinner, and hang out with some buds for awhile. Hell, throw down a few beers or whatever it is you like <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . A couple of years from now, you'll probably be glad you were forced to put new bits in the bottom end. Great opportunity to throw in some nice notched pistons for added fun ;-)

think about it tomorrow...

\chris

 

if you use the bolt to pull the pulley you will strip out the threads. you should thread in a stud and then use a nut on the stud to pull on the pulley.check the depth of the hole and check the threads as there may still be some left and the hole may be deep enought to tap it deeper and use a longer bolt.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by motorman:
<strong>if you use the bolt to pull the pulley you will strip out the threads. you should thread in a stud and then use a nut on the stud to pull on the pulley.check the depth of the hole and check the threads as there may still be some left and the hole may be deep enought to tap it deeper and use a longer bolt.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is a neat Idea, anybody know the thread size?? I'm doing an ASP Pulley soon

 

Something about M16 rings a bell? Dont recall fo'sho'. Always kept a long M16 or whatever around and a *bunch* of big thick washers. Thats how you pull on the pulley. But hey... as far as fixing it, you maaaaaay be able to use a longer bolt to reach into the good threads, pull on the pulley, and then hold in a new bolt. It would be a stretch, and I would always recommend checking how sturdy your pulley is... but you may have only messed up the outside few threads.

\chris

 

Take your old bolt and get another one. Cut the old bolt and the new bolt. Add about two inches of the old bolt to the new bolt way back by the head of the bold and weld together.

It should look like a longer bolt. just with a longer shaft. The weld marks will be back by the head.

Some speed shops have one of these...

Or... see if you buy a bolt of the same threads, just longer. GOOD LUCK.

How, take your old bolt to the hardware store and see what they got. Once you find out the threads.... you might have to make some phone calls to get the bolt your looking for.

Would the Helms manual tell the thread size?

I really dont think your out of the game. I bet a longer bolt would get the pulley installed and then just use a new bolt with just a dab of removeable lock tight to torque it up.
(yes I know the new bolt comes with the paste on it. I was just looking for some added insurance for the guy)

Again...dont give up hope, as of yet all is not lost.

 

I took the crank bolt to a local bolt shop, and they had a 3 foot threaded rod 'in my size' that I bought (along with 2 nuts and 4 washers). Cost about $18 total. Used a hacksaw and cut myself a few pieces of the rod to use to push on the crank pulley, crank timing gear, etc. I used a metal plumbing fitting to push against the crank gear (inner diameter was slightly larger than the crank).

I would try a local bolt shop, to find some threaded rod, if I were you. I don't remember the size, though.

Good luck,

Andrew

 

The crank bolt is NOT long ehough to seat the stock pulley. Spend the $40 or so on the Kent Moore tool that is designed to install the stock pulley,I have it and have had no problems. When I get home tonight I'll post the PN and the number for Kent Moore.

You can also just wait and get the ASP pulley which can be seated with the crank bolt. Use a compressor to blow out any **** that is in the crank and tread the bolt in slowly. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

I'll save you the trouble Richie.

Kent Moore - 1-800-345-2233

Installation tool Part # - J 41665

Flexplate Holding tool Part # - J 42386-A

 

Hey, can you post that part number and where to get it? I need to order one ASAP and have it in hand by wednesday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Thanks RC

ERic

 

Crap, great deal. I post a reminder and someone post it as I post my post. This place rocks. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Thanks Chris.

Eric

 

Well here is what I'd suggest. I have done this with a crank on a neon. I don't know what you torque the bolt to but if you use formathread it will hold up to 183lb./ft. I have used this stuff quite a bit and it's about the only suggestion I have, and it WILL work.

 

http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh....&item_no=81668

 

I just got off the phone with KM.

The first part number listed is on a 28 day back order and sells for $51.34.

The second part number listed is in stock and sells for $54.63.

Now, anyone else know a part number for another brand to try? I can't wait a month. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I am tearing it down next week.

ERic

 

M16x2.0x103,59THD, 48 MMOD, 10.9, GM 7114M Mach

Not sure what all of that means but that what I copied of the dealership computer today on the crank pulley bolt p/n 12557840

Looks like a 16 mm bolt. Hope this helps.

Eric
www.installuniversity.com

 

Rutan is right - that forathread stuff works GREAT. I saw it work on the neon.

However, the torque spec on the crank bolt is over 250 ft. lbs... that might be too much.

<small>[ March 29, 2002, 08:29 AM: Message edited by: bigSS ]</small>

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong....but dosen't the crank bolt need to be replaced WHENEVER it is removed??? It is my understanding that once the bolt is threaded in and torqued it is designed to stretch thereby making it useless once removed.
I also think you should try the Heli-coil for the factory bolt size. They are easy to install if you buy the kit with the correct drill bit and installation tool....expensive kits but still cheaper than installing a new crank.
Let me know if you need any more info...I've used Heli-coils before with Great success. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Mach, yes you should use a new bolt as the Helms manual states that they are TTY bolts <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />