How do u get the F'in crank bolt off on A4?!?!
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Whats up all...for those of you with an A4 who did your cam swap at home...how in the world did you get the crank pulley bolt loose without the crank spinning the same way you're turning? I'm in the middle of a cam swap and I have no air-tools!!! This really bites a big one! Thaks for all your help...
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I used an impact wrench and life is good! Seriously, you need a compressor for the air hold when changing springs anyway. Maybe you can rent one?
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One way is to remove the starter and plastic inspection cover to the rear of it and then wedge a really big screw driver or something of similar sturdiness through one of the flywheel...err flexplate holes and wedge it in there.
Then you'll be able to turn the pulley bolt and not the crank.
Another "quicker" way is to use something like 1" steel pipe and wedge your wrench down the pipe. I used a section of garden hose. Place the socket on the bolt and the other end of the pipe against the ground towards the driver's side and then just "bump" the ignition a couple times without cranking it.
That should loosen it enough to remove the bolt by hand. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />
Then you'll be able to turn the pulley bolt and not the crank.
Another "quicker" way is to use something like 1" steel pipe and wedge your wrench down the pipe. I used a section of garden hose. Place the socket on the bolt and the other end of the pipe against the ground towards the driver's side and then just "bump" the ignition a couple times without cranking it.
That should loosen it enough to remove the bolt by hand. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />
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Kent Moore makes a tool which bolts in place of the starter and holds the flexplate - keeps it from turning.
I don't remember the PN, but your GM dealership should be able to obtain it for you.
Chris
I don't remember the PN, but your GM dealership should be able to obtain it for you.
Chris
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Think man think! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
You need to hold the flexplate stationary while putting it back on too. Pulley ends up getting torqued to over 250 ft lbs.
I have the Kent Moore tool but you could slid a bolt thru one of the holes in the flexplate, but the holes are pretty small.
I have heard of folks using screwdrivers wedged between the teeth of the flexplate but I was always afraid of the screwdriver flying out or even breaking with all the torque that we use to put the pulley on.
You need to hold the flexplate stationary while putting it back on too. Pulley ends up getting torqued to over 250 ft lbs.
I have the Kent Moore tool but you could slid a bolt thru one of the holes in the flexplate, but the holes are pretty small.
I have heard of folks using screwdrivers wedged between the teeth of the flexplate but I was always afraid of the screwdriver flying out or even breaking with all the torque that we use to put the pulley on.
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Slide a large screw driver in between the flex plate and torque converter. That will stop the crank from spinning. I have an impact wrench that puts out over 600Ft.lbs and it would not budge the bolt.
Good luck <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
Good luck <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
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Here is how I did it:
<a href="http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/pics/headscam/01.jpg" target="_blank">Good ole screw driver. Note the PI. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </a>
Nice sturdy breaker bar
I put the tip of the screw driver under the converter center.. the handle goes on top of the converter mounting bracket.. and stick out enough to wedge up against the motor.
<a href="http://www.dxsoftware.com/magnus/pics/headscam/01.jpg" target="_blank">Good ole screw driver. Note the PI. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </a>
Nice sturdy breaker bar
I put the tip of the screw driver under the converter center.. the handle goes on top of the converter mounting bracket.. and stick out enough to wedge up against the motor.
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This is going to be tough to describe...
I backed the lower-left most bolt all the way out of the alternator bracket. I then inserted a dummy bolt [i](you'll need a long bolt, and I wouldn't use the actual bracket bolt for fear of bending or damaging it)[i/]. Don't thread it the bolt - push it in till it hits the threads, but don't thread it at all.
Next is the tricky part. Take your old drive belt and wrap it once around the pulley, then hook the other end over the bolt that's hanging out of the bracket. Double the belt under itself in the opposite direction you need to put pressure on the crank. Hold on to the belt for the first few turns... then it should cinch itself tight. And... voila! Your crank won't turn anymore. It may have a little play in it because the belt stretches and relaxes... but it will hold it steady enough to remove the crank bolt.
Hope that makes sense....
I backed the lower-left most bolt all the way out of the alternator bracket. I then inserted a dummy bolt [i](you'll need a long bolt, and I wouldn't use the actual bracket bolt for fear of bending or damaging it)[i/]. Don't thread it the bolt - push it in till it hits the threads, but don't thread it at all.
Next is the tricky part. Take your old drive belt and wrap it once around the pulley, then hook the other end over the bolt that's hanging out of the bracket. Double the belt under itself in the opposite direction you need to put pressure on the crank. Hold on to the belt for the first few turns... then it should cinch itself tight. And... voila! Your crank won't turn anymore. It may have a little play in it because the belt stretches and relaxes... but it will hold it steady enough to remove the crank bolt.
Hope that makes sense....