NoGo

iTrader: (2)

Here's the scenario:

Just got my right hand side head back on, and torqued down each of the head bolts. The next step, I began to bolt up the header. Unfortunately, I discovered that one of the #7 header bolt holes is stripped out....great. I am obviously going to have to remove the head and tap the hole.

The car has not been run with the new head bolts, but they have been torqued down. Can I just re-use these bolts, or do I have to get a new set of head bolts even if I haven't run the car with them.

Thanks

GeorgeC

I wouldn't re-use them. The factory bolts are torque-to-yield, and are not designed to be re-used. Once you go through the torque sequence, a bit of stretch is introduced into the bolt. If you try to use them again, you have a chance of a bolt breaking off, or failing later down the road. That's my opnion. I don't feel it's worth the risk, considering head bolts aren't that expensive.

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

Being I already have to pull a head to get the thread tapped out, the last thing I want to do is pull the block to get a broken bolt out. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

The H/C project is yet again delayed... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Postal

Head bolts not expensive? Aren't they over $100? I wouldn't reuse them. As stated above, they stretch <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

Reusing a head bolt is like reusing a condom. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

BudH

iTrader: (3)

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

What GeorgeC said.

Use them once. If you pull the head, replace the bolts.

<img border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Brad, where can I find some info on Automotive Engine Rebuilder magazine?

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jason99T/A:
<strong>Brad, where can I find some info on Automotive Engine Rebuilder magazine?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">www.automotiverebuilder.com <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

wizkid

iTrader: (3)

No way I would use them. Why take a chance over $30 and time?

I boogered a header bolt hole up on my heads/cam install. Lucky for me it wasn't stripped so I placed some washers inbetween the header flange and bolt head since the bolt would go about 1/4" in the head before binding down on me. Unfortunately, it was the last header bolt on the passenger side so not tapping while it was on the car.

ERic

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MyLS1Hauls:
<strong>I was reading in an older issue of Automotive Engine Rebuilder that TTY bolts CAN be reused several times. They had a picture of the LS1 bolts right in the article. They said that once used TTY bolts are actually better than new ones. They said they give a more steady torque when tightening. They said you have to check the thread pitch to make sure they arent damaged though. The ones we took out of my buddy's car looked great. One thing though....they said if the OEM says use new bolts that you probably should do it. Just an FYI.

Brad</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">OEM says to use new bolts. We here on LS1Tech go with the right way to do it. You can't IMO measure stretch properly and the heads will lift.

LS1derfull

You guys on here having trouble with header bolt threads, you might try drilling headers bolt holes one size larger when they are out of car, so you dont have to fight any positions and always start all bolts before tightening any of them, and use anti seize on all bolts.
Now for head bolts i would buy ARP or ARE head bolts because they will save block threads, and are reusable, and will give better clamping force. I say they will save block threads because you can use arp Bolt lubricant which will prevent galling or seizing in blocks threads, and just remember to use torque reccomendation with that lube from ARP.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You stripped all the threads completely, or it's cross threaded? If cross threaded, you can clean it up? Or oil up the bolt ?

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
OEM says to use new bolts. We here on LS1Tech go with the right way to do it. You can't IMO measure stretch properly and the heads will lift.[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I never said to do it this way, just that a magazine dedicated to rebuilding engines said it was not always necessary to replace TTY bolts.

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

I was reading in an older issue of Automotive Engine Rebuilder that TTY bolts CAN be reused several times. They had a picture of the LS1 bolts right in the article. They said that once used TTY bolts are actually better than new ones. They said they give a more steady torque when tightening. They said you have to check the thread pitch to make sure they arent damaged though. The ones we took out of my buddy's car looked great. One thing though....they said if the OEM says use new bolts that you probably should do it. Just an FYI.

Brad

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I am familiar with that magazine, one of contributing writers worked on my car last year, and that was when I blew head gaskets three times... Guess what, the head bolts were reused at least once, which to me was crazy, I didn't put all that money in my car to skimp on new bolts.

NoGo

iTrader: (2)

The threads on the head are fooked. Most of the starting threads are gone, and the it looks as though the rest of the threads are chewed up pretty bad. I didn't notice a problem with the bolt until I was torqing it down. Then when I backed the bolt back out I could see what happened.

I already have the head back off the car. I plan on drilling the hole out and installing a heli-coil. They are stronger than the tapped aluminum threads anyways.

I called ARE about the bolt problem and Barry was kind enough to send me a set of replacement headbolts to speed the job along. That's why I went with ARE. Good customer service.

With any luck, I should have the head back on the car and it back together this weekend.