PhillyWS6

I just got a set of SLP headers and Y-pipe, and cats installed on my 99 TA. Now when I come to a stop sign or light the car shakes or vibrates real bad. It almost seems like it is going to stall out. Please help.

Postal

A4 or M6? I would think that with the extra power you have now you may need a little TB mod for extra air to come in. Or you could have something as easy as an exhaust leak.

PhillyWS6

I have a A4( and yes I know I'm a ***** for it) just to add to my earlier post, I took the car back to the shop no signs of any leak. They suggested that I buy a MAF transformer to fix the air to fuel mixture??? Just another little note when I parked the car on my hill which is a down slop the car does not shake at all. Is it possible that it could be the transmission? or drive shaft? My car runs out of warrenty next month so I need help fast? Please

didor80

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by PhillyWS6:
<strong>I have a A4( and yes I know I'm a ***** for it)</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Damn dude, don't be so hard on ur self <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />

LS1derfull

If being a ***** means getting 1.6 60 ft. times than i wish i was one! A4 is better drag race setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

bLuE11secTA

iTrader: (5)

i guess im a ***** for running 11.63@120 in my a4 hehe <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

PhillyWS6

Can someone please reply to the real problem? I need to get it fixed fast it is becoming real anoying to drive the car like this? Thanks

2000 Camaro SS

I'm thinking more apt to be a plug wire that is not on all of the way. Check the connection from the coil to the wire & wire to the plug an ALL plugs.

kent

Try to adjust the idle screw up a little on your throttle body up in small increments and see it this will help. When I had my headers install, my idle RPM's went down a little, but not to the point you are at. Good luck. Kent. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

gwj

Like was said, check your plug wires real good. Also check any wiring near the headers to make sure they aren't getting toasted. If you check all that and not getting SES pull the plugs and see if one got damaged. It's not unheard of to close the gap up on one or crack the insulation.

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gwj:
<strong>Like was said, check your plug wires real good. Also check any wiring near the headers to make sure they aren't getting toasted. If you check all that and not getting SES pull the plugs and see if one got damaged. It's not unheard of to close the gap up on one or crack the insulation.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Totally agree with gwj.

John

PhillyWS6

I just wanted to say thanks for everyone's suggestions, I will try them and let you know if they work. I must say this site has alot of good people on it that really want to help you out. Thanks Guys.

WMSuperSport

iTrader: (23)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LS1derfull:
<strong>If being a ***** means getting 1.6 60 ft. times than i wish i was one! A4 is better drag race setup. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Correction-A4 is more Consistant in drag racing.

The top few times are with manuals. ***** to the wall.

WeatherGuy

As others suggested, check your plug wires (vehicle slope suggests that is a likely problem). If that fails, check for any leaks that could be screwing with your O2s, and if that fails, you need to get autotap or equivalent and look at your A/F mixture.

Idle shake is actually very normal with cammed cars - I personally love it on mine. But you don't have a cam from what you have indicated. Since you said warranty, I assume you bought the car new, right?

PhillyWS6

Yes the car was bought new, all the plug wires are attached. I also had the o2 sensor replaced a few days ago so it's not that. I decided to turn the air conditioner on and you know when that is on it races the engine a little. and when the air conditioner is on it stops shaking. How can I adjust the idle? What do I need? Can I do it with the HPPIII/ Thanks.

Tom99SS

iTrader: (2)

Try using the idle set screw. Turn it a 1/4 turn to see if it helps. Use AutoTap to see what the TPS voltage first. Then adjust the screw. It just may need more air.

The HPP3 will not raise the idle so I don't think it will help.

- Tom
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

PhillyWS6

where is the screw located and which way does it turn.

PhillyWS6

Does anyone know where it is. I thought it was all done by the computer.

Tom99SS

iTrader: (2)

With the car off, lift the TB camshaft (the one to open the TB). Where the lever of the shaft was resting is the idle set screw. I use a torx 15 allen wrench (shaped like an "L"). Pulling towards the front of the car will raise the screw. Push torwards the windshield will lower the screw.

Hope this helps.

- Tom