Change oil pump or tear engine down?
I have the exact same problem.. Mind came after putting my sts turbo on and just spooling it up a little bit... It pressured my crankcase and I was hoping it blew a seal or the oil pressure sending unit..
You make changing the oil pump sound like a big job. It's not. You have to remove the crank pulley and timing cover. The water pump has to come out too as does the radiator. You can swing the A/C condenser to the side without opening the system. If you had spun a bearing as you fear you'd know it. The offender would rat on itself. It sure wouldn't hurt to pull the pan and look at the shells on the big end caps and mains just to be sure while your down there in the basement. There isn't much that can go wrong with those pumps. It's a very simple system, but it works. That's assuming there isn't trash circulating through the system in your oil. In order for the over pressure piston to bleed off your pressure you would have had to exceded the rating of the piston return spring. That's unlikely with a low mileage motor and an owner who regularly does the preventative maintenance the engine needs to keep running.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
You make changing the oil pump sound like a big job. It's not. You have to remove the crank pulley and timing cover. The water pump has to come out too as does the radiator. You can swing the A/C condenser to the side without opening the system. ... .
Thanks.
I've asked that question and a few made it sound big enough that if I were to tear it down to replace it, only to find, after putting it back together, that I still have low oil pressure .. I would have preferred to go ahead with the engine removal if it's a pipe-dream to hope only the pump is the problem.
Can I install oil pump without removing pan?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/587256-can-i-install-oil-pump-without-removing-pan.html
Well, I guess I just have to go far enough to get the pan off and see the bottom end.
Thanks!
I had basically the same problem though my oil pressure would sink to zero after a few minutes at idle. I also had a nasty knock and valvetrain noise associated with the low oil pressure. My car has only 14,400 miles on it, and only 4-5 bottle of juice ran through it over the course of three years. I debated whether or not it could be the oil pump which are notorious for failure on the 1998's, and a spun bearing. I wanted to get a bigger motor in it, so said F*ck It!
Speed Inc is installing a new nitrous motor for me in about 8-10 weeks, and I will do a forensic examination of the oil pump and the crank bearings. I will post my results.
Speed Inc is installing a new nitrous motor for me in about 8-10 weeks, and I will do a forensic examination of the oil pump and the crank bearings. I will post my results.
I checked my opsu today and thats not it. I suppose Ill check the o ring and maybe replace the pump... Hell I suppose its not much trouble to remove the pan while Im at it and check.. I may do that..
When removing the oil pan I know you have to jack up the motor and unbolt it from the motor mounts. I suppose it just drops down enough to pull it from from under the trans..
My engine builder doesnt warrant "race cars" he said but if its something they did then they will take care of it. Just a guess most people are going to say it isnt there fault.. When this happened I hadnt even gotten on it much
Good luck finding your problem.
When removing the oil pan I know you have to jack up the motor and unbolt it from the motor mounts. I suppose it just drops down enough to pull it from from under the trans..
My engine builder doesnt warrant "race cars" he said but if its something they did then they will take care of it. Just a guess most people are going to say it isnt there fault.. When this happened I hadnt even gotten on it much
Good luck finding your problem.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Did I mention when I first start it, the oil pressure is normal with the engine cold (about 45 PSI at idle). It starts to get lower and lower as I drive it, while it's warming up.
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Verdad Gallardo the best advice i think we can give u is tear it apart to the pump, and take the pan off. The oil psi seems suspicious, but i think u are at a point where u need to physicaly get in there and check it out..........just imo
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Tiger2o69
When removing the oil pan I know you have to jack up the motor and unbolt it from the motor mounts. I suppose it just drops down enough to pull it from from under the trans..
I decided to replace my K-Member and A-Arms with the light-wieght BMR units and put A1's up front, with the 300# springs. So, I will be jacking the engine up anyay. I will have the rest of the money I need to do this, by the end of the month. I just hope I don't end up having to take the engine out and re-do that too.
I really appreciate all the feedback you guys ahve given.
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Irocss85
I think the new LSX block is alum., buts its arount $2k just for the block, prolly much like the c5r block is. that extra 100 lbs on the nose isnt helping you hook up either. what suspension mods do you have? and your saying your running out of fuel press. in the upper rpms? if so you should get a boost-a-pump. it worked for a customer of mine that has around 11lbs boost with a d1sc. and put a fuel pump hotwire kit on your list of must have's if you dont already.
I still don't know why it won't shift at the set shift-point/thresholds, and now it revs too fast for a maunal shift to make it happen. That's why I'm wondering if my last visit to the track (banging the rev limiter) damaged the engine, or just stressed the pump and it was it's time to die.
Originally Posted by Grimes
lsx block is actually iron, but they are considering an aluminum version
oh.
another friend/customer of mine had a shop (one of the sponsors here, so I wont mention who
) do a dyno tune for him, and on the dyno it started "slipping" at the shift point under wideopen throttle. all other times it operated normally. turns out the up shift and down shift rpms were not right. so the trans was confused and just slipped. you should check that out and see if thats your problem. what gear do you have in the back? prolly want like a 3:23 or 3:42 so you dont rev through the rpm too quick and not stay in the boosted periods long enough.
good luck with the oil pump swap. you should open up your old pump when its off and check out the internals just to see. either way pull the pan and check the oil pickup tube.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2007
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I would do the pump....I HAD A BAD PUMP! It died at 36K miles! LOL The pumps are bad from 97 to 00. Mine happened to be an 00 pump in my 01 SS. Old stock stuff I guess. It wasnt hard to change. The piston in the pump got stuck. Runs mint with a new 06 LS6 pump.
While you're at it check that you have 1/4" clearance from the bottom of the pan to the bottom of the pickup tube. If it's too close you won't be able to pick up oil very well.
