Fork in the Road: 347 vs 383

I really wanted to order a 383 but i wanted good street power that was going to last for a long time.
Flip a coin hehe

They quoted me the same price for a 383, 402 or 408 shortblock. All were $3,900. Give them a call and you'll see I am right.
And it's good to be right
They quoted me the same price for a 383, 402 or 408 shortblock. All were $3,900. Give them a call and you'll see I am right.
And it's good to be right


383 is an LS1 block, 408 will generally be in an iron block...

The ONLY difference is piston diamater, and wrist pin placment...Thanks.
383 is an LS1 block, 408 will generally be in an iron block...

The ONLY difference is piston diamater, and wrist pin placment...Thanks.
I want a reliable and strong engine that can handle 8~10psi of boost without worry of getting on it whenever I want. 600rwhp (+/- 50 is fine), 10.99 at the track. Power is not a huge concern since I will be making what I consider “enough” either way. It must be daily driveable, and not require ‘race car’ maintenance. I don’t want to have to tear this engine apart again for a very long time. Money is not a huge factor, but the less the better (of coarse) however, I will not skimp and buy cheap parts- I am not going to sacrifice quality. That being said, the savings of a 347 over a callies crank 383 is roughly $1725.
What do you guys think? What would you do?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

So you see my comments were 100% true. My advice was perfectly logical. You sir just can't admit that you were wrong.
Last edited by darrensls1; Jan 30, 2007 at 02:17 PM.
I definitely suggest a 347... you can save the extra cash. You can spin it to 6500 with ease and make a ton of power. If you had higher goals... then i'd suggest the 402 or something like that. But with the 600whp goal... a 347 is plenty with some boost.
Let me pose this question: Is there a down side to doing the 383 (besides money- which isn't a huge factor to me)? Is there any reason the 383 would hurt anything? I can see it helping because the stress would be less on the components due to the added displacement which would mean less boost for same amount of power... I can only get 91 octane in my local area, so does that have an impact on the amount of boost I can run? Or is that strictly dependant on SCR and DCR? (I am planning on 9.35 SCR and 7.2~7.3 DCR)...
Thanks for the input guys.
So to say they basically offset is certainly not a stretch. Is it?
I definitely suggest a 347... you can save the extra cash. You can spin it to 6500 with ease and make a ton of power. If you had higher goals... then i'd suggest the 402 or something like that. But with the 600whp goal... a 347 is plenty with some boost.
I voted 383 with the eagle crank .... ask another shop about the eagle crank many vendors do their strokers that is in the 3500-4000 $ with the eagle crank.
the car will idle smoother and have more vacuume with the extra cubes.
but I think it`s not required for the power level,boost and ET you`re looking for since you have forged pistons and rods with ported heads and a better cam with boost.
Last edited by Bader-X; Jan 31, 2007 at 02:14 AM.
I voted 383 with the eagle crank .... ask another shop about the eagle crank many vendors do their strokers that is in the 3500-4000 $ with the eagle crank.
the car will idle smoother and have more vacuume with the extra cubes.
but I think it`s not required for the power level,boost and ET you`re looking for since you have forged pistons and rods with ported heads and a better cam with boost.
If money ain't an issue... go 402! But you don't mind the extra cash... extra cubes all the way. I didn't realize you didn't care about the cash.
now if I understood what you just said the question is ...
1-stock crank forged rods and pistons with a set of ported heads (assuming one of the good and money saving cnc heads)
2-a 383 forged stroker kit on your existing stock block using stock heads
well .... if that`s the case ... it`s different future money and planning wise ... and the ET with current suspention and tire set up (these you`ll have to ask an expert on)....
I think option 1 will get you there faster ...
option 2 is a better foundation if ported heads is in the future since the enginge will be apart anyway ....
if it was me I`ll choose 2 (stroker advantage) even if it didn`t get me there right away and I`ll add the heads later (head swap is less money than crank and pistons swap).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=33
It is actually more logical for me to do a 347 since it would match up with the P-1SC and my goals as well. I think the decision may have just been made












