View Poll Results: Which Setup?
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Fork in the Road: 347 vs 383
01-28-2007, 10:53 AM
#21
I have a fully built 347 with all the goodies and i couldnt be happier on the street 
I really wanted to order a 383 but i wanted good street power that was going to last for a long time.
Flip a coin hehe
I really wanted to order a 383 but i wanted good street power that was going to last for a long time.
Flip a coin hehe
01-28-2007, 11:31 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by david vericker
.3905 bore is as large as a stock LS1 block can go (.3905 bore x .400 stroke = 383). So you know motor builders that will do the additional cylinder head work and supply the sleeves at no extra cost? Please give me the names of those builders!! And don't tell me their going to do it all (408)with the stroke either. 
They quoted me the same price for a 383, 402 or 408 shortblock. All were $3,900. Give them a call and you'll see I am right.
And it's good to be right
01-29-2007, 06:59 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by darrensls1
LME ----->
They quoted me the same price for a 383, 402 or 408 shortblock. All were $3,900. Give them a call and you'll see I am right.
And it's good to be right
They quoted me the same price for a 383, 402 or 408 shortblock. All were $3,900. Give them a call and you'll see I am right.
And it's good to be right
01-29-2007, 07:58 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by david vericker
Then their quoted was on a LS2 short block and not on a LS1,and that makes you wrong - not right!
383 is an LS1 block, 408 will generally be in an iron block...
The ONLY difference is piston diamater, and wrist pin placment...Thanks.
01-29-2007, 08:12 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by 2 SSlow
383 and a 408 will be almost the exact same price...
383 is an LS1 block, 408 will generally be in an iron block...
The ONLY difference is piston diamater, and wrist pin placment...Thanks.
383 is an LS1 block, 408 will generally be in an iron block...
The ONLY difference is piston diamater, and wrist pin placment...Thanks.
01-30-2007, 07:24 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Up until now, my plan for my engine build has been a 383 with an Eagle crank, compstar rods, and custom diamond pistons. Well now after digging very deep, I am not so sure about the Eagle brand crank. I talked to a very knowledgeable race engine builder at a local machine shop. He said all the SBC Eagle cranks he’s seen, he has had to turn down .010 to get them to be true on the main journals. (This is for standard SBC chevy engines- he has not done to many LS1’s.) Apparently Eagle has a machine that polishes their journals, and it is inaccurate and applies not enough/ too much pressure randomly. Add to that, it is made out of a lesser quality steel from China. So I am at a bit of a standstill here. I’d really like a Lunati crank, but they are out of my price range ($1900). The next step up is the Callies at $1460. Now keep in mind- even that is almost twice what I had planned on paying for the Eagle ($780). So now, that stock crank I have just sitting there is not really looking so bad. No one has ever broken a stock crank to my knowledge- and there are plenty of people using them making more power than I plan on making (I think). Mahle makes an off the shelf piston that would get me to the same SCR and DCR as what I was planning on going the 383 route, so pistons would be cheaper since I wouldn’t have to get custom ones made, and I’d get the brand I originally wanted (Mahle). Also, I wouldn’t have to clearance the block for the longer stroke = cheaper machining/ or less time screwing around with the block. So I’ll ask you guys, what do you think I should do? 383 or 347? My criteria and goals are as follows:
I want a reliable and strong engine that can handle 8~10psi of boost without worry of getting on it whenever I want. 600rwhp (+/- 50 is fine), 10.99 at the track. Power is not a huge concern since I will be making what I consider “enough” either way. It must be daily driveable, and not require ‘race car’ maintenance. I don’t want to have to tear this engine apart again for a very long time. Money is not a huge factor, but the less the better (of coarse) however, I will not skimp and buy cheap parts- I am not going to sacrifice quality. That being said, the savings of a 347 over a callies crank 383 is roughly $1725.
What do you guys think? What would you do?
I want a reliable and strong engine that can handle 8~10psi of boost without worry of getting on it whenever I want. 600rwhp (+/- 50 is fine), 10.99 at the track. Power is not a huge concern since I will be making what I consider “enough” either way. It must be daily driveable, and not require ‘race car’ maintenance. I don’t want to have to tear this engine apart again for a very long time. Money is not a huge factor, but the less the better (of coarse) however, I will not skimp and buy cheap parts- I am not going to sacrifice quality. That being said, the savings of a 347 over a callies crank 383 is roughly $1725.
What do you guys think? What would you do?
01-30-2007, 12:47 PM
#28
I may have made a mistake in that I had a H/C stock short block 347. I blew the #7 rings and when I went to rebuild I didn't go with a stroker because I thought that the St 2 2.02 heads wouldn't handle the extra cubes. I have since talked to people that said that the heads would of worked. Just another piece in the equation.
01-30-2007, 02:08 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by david vericker
Then their quoted was on a LS2 short block and not on a LS1,and that makes you wrong - not right!
Originally Posted by darrensls1
Between the two I say just stay with the 347 for cost effectiveness. If you really want to up the cubes then I would go 408 since most builders will build them for the same price they charge to build a 383.
So you see my comments were 100% true. My advice was perfectly logical. You sir just can't admit that you were wrong.
Last edited by darrensls1; 01-30-2007 at 02:17 PM.
01-30-2007, 06:22 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by texada
I say get the 383 0r 408. You will probally make 40-50 more horsepower & torque.
I definitely suggest a 347... you can save the extra cash. You can spin it to 6500 with ease and make a ton of power. If you had higher goals... then i'd suggest the 402 or something like that. But with the 600whp goal... a 347 is plenty with some boost.
01-30-2007, 07:29 PM
#32
Okay, seems to be a few more that have voted 383 than the 347.
Let me pose this question: Is there a down side to doing the 383 (besides money- which isn't a huge factor to me)? Is there any reason the 383 would hurt anything? I can see it helping because the stress would be less on the components due to the added displacement which would mean less boost for same amount of power... I can only get 91 octane in my local area, so does that have an impact on the amount of boost I can run? Or is that strictly dependant on SCR and DCR? (I am planning on 9.35 SCR and 7.2~7.3 DCR)...
Thanks for the input guys.
Let me pose this question: Is there a down side to doing the 383 (besides money- which isn't a huge factor to me)? Is there any reason the 383 would hurt anything? I can see it helping because the stress would be less on the components due to the added displacement which would mean less boost for same amount of power... I can only get 91 octane in my local area, so does that have an impact on the amount of boost I can run? Or is that strictly dependant on SCR and DCR? (I am planning on 9.35 SCR and 7.2~7.3 DCR)...
Thanks for the input guys.
01-30-2007, 11:25 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
That must be one hell of a sway bar.
So to say they basically offset is certainly not a stretch. Is it?
01-31-2007, 02:00 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by ChrisUlrich
What? I can see the extra torque... but not the hp.
I definitely suggest a 347... you can save the extra cash. You can spin it to 6500 with ease and make a ton of power. If you had higher goals... then i'd suggest the 402 or something like that. But with the 600whp goal... a 347 is plenty with some boost.
I definitely suggest a 347... you can save the extra cash. You can spin it to 6500 with ease and make a ton of power. If you had higher goals... then i'd suggest the 402 or something like that. But with the 600whp goal... a 347 is plenty with some boost.
I voted 383 with the eagle crank .... ask another shop about the eagle crank many vendors do their strokers that is in the 3500-4000 $ with the eagle crank.
the car will idle smoother and have more vacuume with the extra cubes.
but I think it`s not required for the power level,boost and ET you`re looking for since you have forged pistons and rods with ported heads and a better cam with boost.
Last edited by Bader-X; 01-31-2007 at 02:14 AM.
01-31-2007, 05:49 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Bader-X
they might peak the same or the 347 a little lower with some cam choices.... but the curve at all rpms will be 20-40 rwhp more ..and the TQ higher than that at all rpms specially less drop at higher rpms..
I voted 383 with the eagle crank .... ask another shop about the eagle crank many vendors do their strokers that is in the 3500-4000 $ with the eagle crank.
the car will idle smoother and have more vacuume with the extra cubes.
but I think it`s not required for the power level,boost and ET you`re looking for since you have forged pistons and rods with ported heads and a better cam with boost.
I voted 383 with the eagle crank .... ask another shop about the eagle crank many vendors do their strokers that is in the 3500-4000 $ with the eagle crank.
the car will idle smoother and have more vacuume with the extra cubes.
but I think it`s not required for the power level,boost and ET you`re looking for since you have forged pistons and rods with ported heads and a better cam with boost.
If money ain't an issue... go 402! But you don't mind the extra cash... extra cubes all the way. I didn't realize you didn't care about the cash.
01-31-2007, 07:14 AM
#37
Don't get me wrong, the less I spend the better, but the difference between the 347 and the 383 is less than $900. I figured if I was going to get a 383 then I may as well upgrade the crank while I'm at it... maybe I'll save the $$ on the crank and put it towards porting the heads...
01-31-2007, 09:47 PM
#38
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man I thought you already had a 6.125 forged rod and pistons.... and you were wondering if you better upgrade to a stroker crank(needing new pistons as the pistons will need to be for the crank stroke you`ll be using) ... and you already had ported heads ....
now if I understood what you just said the question is ...
1-stock crank forged rods and pistons with a set of ported heads (assuming one of the good and money saving cnc heads)
2-a 383 forged stroker kit on your existing stock block using stock heads
well .... if that`s the case ... it`s different future money and planning wise ... and the ET with current suspention and tire set up (these you`ll have to ask an expert on)....
I think option 1 will get you there faster ...
option 2 is a better foundation if ported heads is in the future since the enginge will be apart anyway ....
if it was me I`ll choose 2 (stroker advantage) even if it didn`t get me there right away and I`ll add the heads later (head swap is less money than crank and pistons swap).
now if I understood what you just said the question is ...
1-stock crank forged rods and pistons with a set of ported heads (assuming one of the good and money saving cnc heads)
2-a 383 forged stroker kit on your existing stock block using stock heads
well .... if that`s the case ... it`s different future money and planning wise ... and the ET with current suspention and tire set up (these you`ll have to ask an expert on)....
I think option 1 will get you there faster ...
option 2 is a better foundation if ported heads is in the future since the enginge will be apart anyway ....
if it was me I`ll choose 2 (stroker advantage) even if it didn`t get me there right away and I`ll add the heads later (head swap is less money than crank and pistons swap).
02-01-2007, 05:18 AM
#39
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The P1SC will work better with a 347 , you will max it easier with a 383/402/408 unless the engines at a higher scr. Thats the key I believe, less work for the blower to get to your power goals . Someone correct me if Im wrong .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
02-01-2007, 06:54 AM
#40
Bader-X- The scenario is right now that I have not done anything except ordered 6.0L 72cc stock heads, comp 224/232 .581/.595 114LSA cam, and a 3.4" pulley for the P-1SC. The shortblock is what I am trying to decide on here.
I remember that thread. In fact, I was subscribed to it. I had forgotten all about it tho. But I'm glad you brought that up. You have a really good point too. This post in that thread sums it up.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=33
It is actually more logical for me to do a 347 since it would match up with the P-1SC and my goals as well. I think the decision may have just been made
Originally Posted by cws T/A
The P1SC will work better with a 347 , you will max it easier with a 383/402/408 unless the engines at a higher scr. Thats the key I believe, less work for the blower to get to your power goals . Someone correct me if Im wrong .
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ght=Maxed+P1SC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....6&postcount=33
It is actually more logical for me to do a 347 since it would match up with the P-1SC and my goals as well. I think the decision may have just been made