lgobraves

iTrader: (14)

Where the hell did you get that information??? 70lbs for the front sway bar.....ummm hell no....try 14lbs for the Swaybar and brackets, front as listed in the weight reduction list in the drag racing tech section

Hemi Killer

iTrader: (6)

I have an eagle crank in my 383 LS1. I asked the engine builder if he ran into any problems. No problems at all.

2 SSlow

iTrader: (26)

I really don't have anything to say to your ignorance. I didn't see anywhere that he said IT HAD to be an LS1 block. If you are buying a short block, an LS1 383, and a LQ9 408 are going to be roughly the same price...sure you will gain an extra 70lbs, but most people will agree the gains will be worth 70lbs...
We were just throwing out other options to a 383 for the same price, you don't have to be such a douche bag about it. Thanks

oh, and even if he, or anyone, wanted to build a 408, iron block can be had for a couple hundred bucks...no biggie.

sorry.

darrensls1

No need to be rude bro. I said please correct me if I was wrong not please correct me in a rude and condescending manner.

In a thread at either LS1tech.com or Camaroz28.com a few years ago someone mentioned the front sway bar weighing 70 lbs in reference to weight reduction for drag racing. No one corrected him in that thread so I took that as accurate information.

Then that's 14 lbs of a good start. I can also remove AC and replace my stock front tires with lightweight skinnies. That should help some as well.

I'm still glad to get the extra cubes & HP that come with those cubes. And I now stand corrected on the weight of a front sway bar. Thanks for the info

lgobraves

iTrader: (14)

its all good....is this going to be a track only car?

darrensls1

95% track car. I'll drive it to and from the track but probably not much street driving outside of that. I'm planning on running Mickey Thompson drag radials in the back and then I'll swap the front with skinnies when I get there.

forged 408, ETP LS7 heads, LS7 intake, custom grind cam and a 150 wetshot. Should make for some fun track days

lgobraves

iTrader: (14)

i'd say so

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

Read the original post, he is referring to building his LS1 motor. Maybe you iron headed, oh I mean iron block guys have a problem comprehending what you read.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Yes, it was always my intent to do an aluminum block. I have already decided to go with the 347 for reasons stated a few posts ago. In fact- I ordered it yesterday from SDPC So that is that should be the end of this thread. No more need for arguing guys

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

Good luck. I hope you make some good HP - 550 to 600 I think is what you are shooting for.

headed-ws6

iTrader: (34)

I voted 347 for the fact that I have seen a twin turbo setup on a 347 put down 950 to the ground which is amazing. I would think that is enough hp for most people.

darrensls1

Don't be mad because you were wrong. It happens to the best of us

darrensls1

For your goals that was a good choice. SDPC has an excellent reputation too. Good luck.

Steel Chicken

iTrader: (3)

this has been a good thread, despite the weiner-waving.

im in a spot where maybe in a year or so I want to do something with my spinning goodies in my LS1 w/maggie. like to get forged parts, might as well put 383 parts in there.

thanks for the discussion!

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

You are one stupid *** - no wonder your car is so slow. It must be extremely difficult for you to figure out what this drag racing **** is all about!!

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

Life is good.

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

see above

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

I agree 1000% if your going with F/Induction/N20, history has not repeated itself that a stock cubed forged LS series motor will MORE Power than you could ever possibly put down on the street and more than enough power to run deep into the 9s down the 1320!!

Sparetire

347.

All you need to make the power you want. And lower piston velocities with a shorter stroke can make for easier tuning when you introduce FI in to the equation.

You will have traction issues with a 347 anyway, all that mid range torque. Why get even more midrange with a 383. I'm not speaking from expirience here, but I would think (as in suspect as in dont know for sure) that a 347 turbo is going to be easier to hook than a 383.

tuffass

Definately spend a little extra and get a callies crank. And 383 all the way!