Man some guys get all the bad luck. Were you a **** in your past life or something? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

no ****. I cant remember.

Whats more money anyways? Not like I needed shelter or food. ;-)
I can sleep in this big space under the SS hood now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

\chrisn

 

Visceral and MelloYellow....I just had that happen to me this Sat. Spun bearing....this is after the car being at MTI for a while, getting T1 cam kit, PCM tuning, Mac headers being fixed, ect.....As soon as I heard the sound what seemed like a knock or metal hitting on something I turned it off and took the car on a trailor to MTI. This morning I went to see what the problem was....they checked it and were checking for misfire, but there wasn't any...then they checked the cylinders...turning them on and off, one by one, till they got to 6 and heard the sound when on, and disappeared when off. I am not sure if anything else has been damaged, but Jeff at MTi said I would have to replace the crank. I am suprised no codes came on. They told me that ls1 bearing are that great and that some ls1's have some restrictions where the oil flows and that they usually shave some parts out so they flow better......Learned alot today...and also hurt alot today....now I have to come up with the sum big bucks to fix it, and still deciding what to do. I just feel your guys pain.....
<img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />
98TA black A4
vig 2800, 3:73,T1, MTI tuning,lid,free mods,Mac headers off/y-pipe,3" cut out
Dyno 353 HP 356 Ftlbs

 

correction, that the bearing aren't that great..

 

Who is Tony? What kind of motor are you waiting to see results on? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I'd suggest an all-bore 393ci setup with LS6 heads and an R1 hydraulic cam. I'd estimate 470+ rwhp with that combo in an M6.

Stock rodbolts suck. Believe me, I was sweating it every single pass down the track when I had the all-bore with stock rods and stock bolts. Once I got the ARP bolts in, I felt much more secure about beating on the motor. I've seen a few stock rod bolts give and form windows in the side of the block. Ouch!

Tony

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>Stock rodbolts suck. Believe me, I was sweating it every single pass down the track when I had the all-bore with stock rods and stock bolts. Once I got the ARP bolts in, I felt much more secure about beating on the motor. I've seen a few stock rod bolts give and form windows in the side of the block. Ouch!
Tony</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm withya that stock rodbolts suck. But is removing the stock rodbolts and changing bolts with just the caps off a good idea? Can the rod shift or not be correctly aligned if you do that? One of the tuners said that to do a rod bolt change the right way, that the rod needs to be resized on the big end, whatever that means...

Is it a good idea to just unscrew 2 rod bolts then screw 2 back in? I have a 7yr/100k warranty on the engine, so.. Just don't want to misalign the rod ends somehow making things worse..

 

Okay, I think you guys have convinced me to forego the heads/cam on stock bottom end and go right for the complete engine buildup (i.e. 382 or equivalent) with all the goodies <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> On the surface its hard to justify the additional $$ spent, but in the end I've always felt that you're better off spending the money to get the strong foundation.

Sorry to hear of your problems Chris. The numbers you were putting down in the past was one of the reasons that I was okay with my hotcam at the time. Hope all works out and you get yourself a badass MTI setup <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>I'd suggest an all-bore 393ci setup with LS6 heads and an R1 hydraulic cam. I'd estimate 470+ rwhp with that combo in an M6.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Why, thats a FANTASTIC plan ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

NOTHING TO SEE HERE... MOVE ALONG.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

\chrisn

 

Well, Talked with Jeff @ MTI.

I have sent Valvegod an Email about shipping MTI a bare block, and Jeff and I are gonna wait and see how Tony's (Nineball's) new motor does.

Then its my turn. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Im going to run the stock crank for now, however, since money isnt currently growing on trees. My heads were built with 2.08 valves, so it sounds like we'll be able to take advantage of them with a nice, fat bore <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Now i have to start thinking about cams for big-bores.

\chrisn

 

Mello, the stock rods have a fractured cap end from the factory. They are actually broken off in a controlled manner so that the contact area between them is individual for each rod. The cap that broke off the rod is the only one that fits it. It should be just fine to swap one bolt out at a time. ARP rod bolts (there are two grades) cost about $120 for the good ones.

Tony

 

My objectives here are going to be to create a motor that will spin like mad. Nick is going to rework the heads with lighter valves and enlargen the exhaust side considerably of the LS6 heads Ive been using. Im into the R1 cam, but I need to talk to Jeff a little about the individual lobes. I like the duration, and the 112, but I need to think about the actual lobe itself now that we have choices. I would like this to be a motor that can be spun to 7000 on a regular basis and for extended periods. My head flow looks pretty OK compared to Tony's if you consider the 3.90->4.100 bore difference, except on the exhaust side, which Nick should be good for fixing.
I talked with Jeff about putting some really nice rods in there, so all should be good.
I'd imagine its still 2-3 month out just for the building of the motor though. Ah well.

\chrisn