MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I have had my b1 in for week or two but haven't drove the car much.At first when I started it now problem stalling..then I noticed some stalling but found my map sensor unplugged maybe from my ls6 intake manifold install right before I put car away for winter think sensor plug was loose maybe.Anyway after plugged map back in car has been fine..only time it stalled was cold.Today it was stalling every light..I have had some battery problems lately,think my optima is shot and finally got a new one out of dealer today.Today on way home car didn't stall.Can a real low battery make these cars stall??? Also do most m6 guys still drill the tb bigger and turn that screw on tb a tiny bit.If so anyone know what drill size to use..I don't want to make it too big.And what harm will it do if I get ls1 edit later on if I have drilled my tb hole bigger???
Am I shooting for 30 or so iac counts..I think they were aroud 55 to 60 last time I checked.I also didn't do the idle relearn since the cam as I have no refridgerant in my air system now and didn't want to run the air without it so I figured can't do the idle relean properly so why bother.Some say the car relearns the idle in 500 miles anyway..yes /no ?????I thought only a4 guys really needed to drill the tb or raise the tb screw.

LS1derfull

I went thru all this, here is my advice: drill Tb to 13/64ths install curb idle screw upside down so you can adjust from the top, set hot idle at 890 rpm, iac counts will be 0 but you wont set SES light because PCM shoots for 800 rpm stock and it will allow up to 100 extra rpm w/out setting code. This has worked great for me, no problems at all with this setup.

PK 01somWS6

how do you know how much to tighten/loosen that screw for the idle? I'm having problems too and been experimenting around w/ that screw, I'm gonna go try turning it upside down, damn that will make it easier!
-peter

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well first drill that tb out 13/64.That seems to help.I have scanmaster and sort of watch my idle but it still seems to jump around a bit so I think its trial and error..you should reverse the screw and just back it out a little bit.If you get codes you have gone too far but really don't see what problems the code causes except the light.A ses light is certainly preferrable to the car stalling all the time.

NewZ

I'm not sure the actual problem but PM or page 2MchPwr. (his name is Scott)

He has a B1 cam and had what sounds like the same problem. It's usually a low voltage to something or other that causes it. He'll remember. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Hope this helps.

Alan

PK 01somWS6

Well I played around with it, I already had my TB drilled out to approx 7/32", I flipped the screw and tested it about 15xs till I got it to work, seems MUCH better now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> ...And I couldnt care less about the SES light, I already have on all the time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
thanks
-peter
01 SOM WS6 M6
GTP S2/G5 429/386 through full exhaust and a 12bolt w/ 430s..

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I took your advice ls1derfull. I took off tb..easy anyway as have the tb bypass already.
I drilled it 13/64 as you said and and reversed the idle screw.Everything seems great..no stalling and it was hotter today..still don't have my air connected ,have to get it filled and put the belt back on but no ses lights for idle too high.Not that I really care about another light as have egr light,air pump system,the odd po300..so whats one more.I can check and clear codes any time with my onboard scanmaster.The iac
does go to like zero now when I stop but it doesn't seem to hurt anything..it still moves around when you drive.The higher idle seems to be giving me more volts from the alternator and even the cartech clutch seems easier to drive with a bit higher idle..seems like a win /win scenario.
My car is an m6 not an auto also.