lilbuddy1587

iTrader: (1)

1. headers are a must 2. GET A GODDAMN TUNE 3. ls6 intake FTW

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

Ok so headers are coming.

I have a tune, or umm I would not be able to keep an idle ^

But still I do not see how headers alone could be causing such a power loss... 310 TQ my stock LS1 hit 325?

Something else has to be up.

PREDATOR-Z

1- WTF are you doing? (no that is too harsh)
OK start again,
1- Maybe you might want to avoid that dealership. They've allready done enough.
2- Perhaps you might want to take your ride to a competent LSx shop.
3- Put some headers and this thing.
4- Put some SLP 1.85 rockers (or comp magnums)
5- Get anothe LS6 intake.
6- Get a real tune, surging with 2* overlap cam, come on !!!
7- Redyno again and get some smile on that face.

edwardswb

iTrader: (6)

Stealerships are not the place to get your car worked on. Please take my word for it. I had a new engine put in mine, warranty covered it. They took my beautiful, solid, 50,000 mile, ZERO problem car (other than the blown motor of course, broken spring caused it) and I got it back (over a month later) and after two years of sorting out all the bugs I've nearly got it back to how it should be. F*cked up wiring harness, loose bolts...my tranny brace only had 1 bolt in it when I got it back, the tune was all f'd up...I've had weird rattles and noises since I got it back...STAY AWAY FROM DEALERSHIPS. (WESELOH HUMMER/CHEVROLET in Carlsbad, California)

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Suppoting mods are always required, intake setup, intake manifold, exhaust, and from the cat back and tune to those mods. Seeing a similar ESP grind like 224/228 with nearly 600" lift on a 113 LSA putting down on a stock headed 01 t/a ws6 with a 6 speed, moser 12 bolt, headers and supporting mods did low 400's you have a auto with a mild stall, I am sure it dyno's like a pig. But you were able to get a 3.5k pull, better then most people.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

What he said!

Yes, the stock LS1 manifolds/intake are THAT restrictive. If your stock LS1 hit 325 with an automatic, you had a factory freak, those numbers are above average (ESPECIALLY for a pre-01, since you mentioned you had an LS1 intake).

The headers ill not fix your surging, that is a tuning issue most likely (assumming you don't have a vacuum leak or anyting similar).

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

I understand that a dealership is not the place to have LSX cars worked on, but my extended warranty paid for the install and labor, so I can not really complain and I pretty much overwatched the complete swap.

I am just trying to figure all this out, I do not know to much about all this... learning as all this goes along.

So I need headers, got that covered.

Need to have the car's tune adjusted, should I have the tuner use a stock LS6 file and go from there or continue using the current file?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

There is no need to start from an LS6 file. You want to start from an f-body A4 file. Probably worth taking a road trip to a place that does a lot of LSx tuning once you put the intake and headers on.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

my car jsut now dynoed with MODES IN SIG

331 RWHP / 340 RWTQ.. Freshly recalibrated mustang dyno

my cam is being put in right now

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

Ok so I am going to do the headers, but first I am going to fix the mess of a PCV system I have.

So when the dealership put back on my LS1 intake, they also put the LS1 valley cover on. Also they put a new LS1 PCV system on and plugged the extra line that would of gone into the LS1 passenger side valve cover...

Well I still have the LS6 valley so I am going to put that back on and tell me if this sounds right... I am going to yank the LS1 PCV system off... plug the driver side vavle cover and connect a line from the LS6 valley cover to the TB? Should I put a breather on the driver side vavle cover or plug it?

Also what in the hell does the stock LS6 PCV system look like... if the valley goes into the TB then what goes from the driverside vavle cover?

I think may solve some of my surging and idling problems?

PREDATOR-Z

You put the LS6 valley cover, from that nipple it goes to a LS6 PCV valve at the intake (kinda like a Uey). Cap your driver side, cap passenger back side and run a hose from valve cover to TB.

Forget that just read above.

I doubt it, surging and idling is a tune issue. But at least you'll have a properly breathing block.

Daez

Oh, and by the way.. if you are only running on 7 cylinders.. your car will drive just as smooth as normal. Just with less power.

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

How would I check to determine all cylinders are working?

blkZ28spt

Why not? That cam isn't very big, should be able to hold an idle alright without tuning...


They have you pointed in the right direction, except I disagree with whoever said to get 1.85 rockers.

7th Darkness

iTrader: (15)

Ok so I am getting headers, how much louder does the exhuast get without cats? I do not want it to get any louder than it is already?? I was surprised on the noise level increase from the cam... do not want any louder.

I was thinking about getting some of your average LT's with a Y pipe.. no cats... or stock ones depending on the level of noise. And yeah I know I need to get rid of the flowmasters, but I like the sound from them, but may need to change if its gets any louder. Get rid of the egr/air and hopefully unlock some serious held back HP.

And yes the idle would not hold after the cam install, match'd up with a 3000 rpm stall...def idle issues. Would start up then just die, would not even try to find a new idle, even after an idle relearn. But I still need to have my tune adjusted, something still is not right.

PREDATOR-Z

Why, this is a .53x lift cam on soft lobes. It will give more lift and a nano bit more duration.