My first LS1 cam, any advice?
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Hi guys, I'm new here, been reading for about 2 months, just post shy I suppose. Anyway, I have a 98 Z28 with MAC mid length headers with the on-road pipe (I know <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> ), ported maf, sliced egr, and a suncoast ss style hood (which I love btw). Anyway, I'm lookin to throw a cam in there, something with nice lope and nice power gains <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> I was thinking the TR 230/224-111 or the 224/224-112, I need to be able to pass emissions in NC which shouldn't be too hard. Any advice would be appreciated!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
BTW cammin is a pretty reliable mod right? Thanks guys!!
Andy
BTW cammin is a pretty reliable mod right? Thanks guys!!
Andy
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"Cammin'" s just as reliable as the knowledge level is of the installer. That doesn't mean a rookie can't do it right, it's all in the length and depth of research.
Making sure all the i's are dotted and t's are crossed: Proper *hardware*, correct procedures, proper fluids, proper handling, correct reference materials, proper tools.
What, specifically, are the NC requirements for emissions testing? You might wanna ask some folks in yer backyard who have similar cars how well they have done (local speedshops might have some insight).
Hardware is critical. Springs that can handle the increased stress of a bigger cam. As long as yer in there, a ported oil pump ain't a bad mod. Careful w/ the Harmonic balancer. Timing chain upgrade: Type and style?
IMO, a bigger/better cam is one of the more reliable mods, but can still cause ya grief if ya try to cut a corner or save a few hp by doing something you shouldn't...
Making sure all the i's are dotted and t's are crossed: Proper *hardware*, correct procedures, proper fluids, proper handling, correct reference materials, proper tools.
What, specifically, are the NC requirements for emissions testing? You might wanna ask some folks in yer backyard who have similar cars how well they have done (local speedshops might have some insight).
Hardware is critical. Springs that can handle the increased stress of a bigger cam. As long as yer in there, a ported oil pump ain't a bad mod. Careful w/ the Harmonic balancer. Timing chain upgrade: Type and style?
IMO, a bigger/better cam is one of the more reliable mods, but can still cause ya grief if ya try to cut a corner or save a few hp by doing something you shouldn't...
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hardware is critical. Springs that can handle the increased stress of a bigger cam. As long as yer in there, a ported oil pump ain't a bad mod. Careful w/ the Harmonic balancer. Timing chain upgrade: Type and style?</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah, I had planned on doing the Cartek oil pump at the same time just because most of the steps involved with the cam swap are also involved in the pump swap. From TR I'll just get the 918 springs with the pkg. deal, are the Ti Retainers worth the extra $100??? Also I haven't thought about a timing chain upgrade yet, but it's worth looking into.
Andy
Andy
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The 918's are good to about .600 lift, but my attitude is why go all the way up against a part's limits. I'd stay below .580 w/ the 918's. If ya get too radical on li9ft, there are always dual-springs out there.
If you don't get the Ti retainers, the Steel ones are about identical to stock. (I went Ti... just 'cause...)
The stock chain is too slack, and you will affect yer timing eventually (if not immediately). Rollmaster makes a double-roller that's cheaper (less expensive) than most single chain set-ups.
The cautious part is the dampener. Make sure ya use one.
If you don't get the Ti retainers, the Steel ones are about identical to stock. (I went Ti... just 'cause...)
The stock chain is too slack, and you will affect yer timing eventually (if not immediately). Rollmaster makes a double-roller that's cheaper (less expensive) than most single chain set-ups.
The cautious part is the dampener. Make sure ya use one.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong>The 224 cam is a little more emissions friendly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">ditto on a 114lsa.
<strong>The 224 cam is a little more emissions friendly.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">ditto on a 114lsa.
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I don't believe I've heard one on a 114 lsa, I know I can get power out of it, but what about the sound, ya know I need to sound mean at the line, i'm sure I could pass emissions with some tuning. I agree with the timing chain upgrade and will do that at the same time, you guys keep making this more and more expensive <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> heh, better to do it right the first time though <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> If it weren't so important to pass emissions what do you think would be a better choice in cams?? Thanks guys, Great info!!!
Andy
Andy
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I was planning on doing it myself, I just don't know any shops around here that do it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> Anyhow I'm from Kernersville, right near Winston-Salem.
Andy
Andy
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The cautious part is the dampener. Make sure ya use one. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Can ya recommend one?? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Andy
Andy