Opinions on iron block 409 stroker
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Opinions on iron block 409 stroker I don't hear much about these. If you know anything about them please give me some input. What kind of #'s are they putting out, how are they on the street, and how do they compare to the larger ci stroker engines and how do they compare to a 383? I may be running into some bucks and might go this route if it's worth the $$ ($8999, no core required). And, I assume I would need to run 6.0 truck heads with it? Thanks.
Staging Lane
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Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker I am building a 422 iron block right now, it is a 4.125" stroke and a 4.030 bore it will be a N2O motor. You can use LS1 heads or LS6 or 6.0 heads but the chambers will need to be opened up for the added bore. I would do a 422 because no matter what stroke you go with its the same price for the crank.
Sean
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Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker The iron blocks are better for nitrous and blower applications that plan on a big shot or lots of boost. You would probably save some money going with an iron block(no matter what size you plan on) b/c you will not have to pay for having the block resleeved. You can have the block bored by mostly any machine shop(make sure you find a good one though).
I whave plans to build a iron blocked 409 with the 6.0 heads(w/ a stage 2 or 3 porting) with a nice size cam(something to go good with a blower) and have a big hair drier putting out about 12-15 lbs of boost out. But that is in the future and only time will tell when that happens(hopefully soon!)
Josh S.
I whave plans to build a iron blocked 409 with the 6.0 heads(w/ a stage 2 or 3 porting) with a nice size cam(something to go good with a blower) and have a big hair drier putting out about 12-15 lbs of boost out. But that is in the future and only time will tell when that happens(hopefully soon!)
Josh S.
Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker If you want a nearly bulletproof bottom end, the iron block is the way to go. There will be no worries about dropped sleeves or associated problems with re-sleeved blocks. It is definitely a safe choice to pour your hard earned dollars into. I went that route because I have a relatively limited budget and I am confident in the minimal risks associtated with boring an iron block .030" over. The only drawback to this setup is a 100# weight penalty.
This is just my opinion. You must weigh the risks of resleeved blocks against the weight penalty of an iron block.
I was able to offset the weight of my iron block by using the BMR tubular K and A-arm setup and by a few other weight saving mods. I still have to accept the fact that I will always be about 100 #'s heavier than I could be.
Shane
<small>[ June 02, 2002, 10:54 PM: Message edited by: XtraCajunSS ]</small>
This is just my opinion. You must weigh the risks of resleeved blocks against the weight penalty of an iron block.
I was able to offset the weight of my iron block by using the BMR tubular K and A-arm setup and by a few other weight saving mods. I still have to accept the fact that I will always be about 100 #'s heavier than I could be.
Shane
<small>[ June 02, 2002, 10:54 PM: Message edited by: XtraCajunSS ]</small>
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Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XtraCajunSS:
<strong>If you want a nearly bulletproof bottom end, the iron block is the way to go. There will be no worries about dropped sleeves or associated problems with re-sleeved blocks. It is definitely a safe choice to pour your hard earned dollars into. I went that route because I have a relatively limited budget and I am confident in the minimal risks associtated with boring an iron block .030" over. The only drawback to this setup is a 100# weight penalty.
This is just my opinion. You must weigh the risks of resleeved blocks against the weight penalty of an iron block.
I was able to offset the weight of my iron block by using the BMR tubular K and A-arm setup and by a few other weight saving mods. I still have to accept the fact that I will always be about 100 #'s heavier than I could be.
Shane</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, I thought about tubular a&k arms as well, ecpecially if I go w/ an iron block. Have you moved your battery to the rear? That would be alot of weight right there. I imagine all that would almost equal everything out.
<strong>If you want a nearly bulletproof bottom end, the iron block is the way to go. There will be no worries about dropped sleeves or associated problems with re-sleeved blocks. It is definitely a safe choice to pour your hard earned dollars into. I went that route because I have a relatively limited budget and I am confident in the minimal risks associtated with boring an iron block .030" over. The only drawback to this setup is a 100# weight penalty.
This is just my opinion. You must weigh the risks of resleeved blocks against the weight penalty of an iron block.
I was able to offset the weight of my iron block by using the BMR tubular K and A-arm setup and by a few other weight saving mods. I still have to accept the fact that I will always be about 100 #'s heavier than I could be.
Shane</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, I thought about tubular a&k arms as well, ecpecially if I go w/ an iron block. Have you moved your battery to the rear? That would be alot of weight right there. I imagine all that would almost equal everything out.
Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker I think iron block strokers have some positives.
Since you are now bolting aluminum heads to an iron block, you have less distortion of the deck surface under extreme conditions. Iron is a better clamping surface too. You can go up to 4.060 bore and avoid expensive sleeving.
But the added weight is NOTICEABLE on the front end.
I have an ARE 422ci IRON setup and after I hit my NA goal I will spray it.
John
11.1 NA at 3700 raceweight last year, goin' for 10.75 FIRST
Since you are now bolting aluminum heads to an iron block, you have less distortion of the deck surface under extreme conditions. Iron is a better clamping surface too. You can go up to 4.060 bore and avoid expensive sleeving.
But the added weight is NOTICEABLE on the front end.
I have an ARE 422ci IRON setup and after I hit my NA goal I will spray it.
John
11.1 NA at 3700 raceweight last year, goin' for 10.75 FIRST
Staging Lane
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Re: Opinions on iron block 409 stroker I have BMR K-member and A-arms, which I might add are very very nice. I am reloacating the Batt. to the rear, just remember to be NHRA legal you have to but a dissconnect on it. I am going to drill a little hole in the rear of the car where the WS6 logo would be and you one of those flaming river remote dissconnects.
Sean
Sean
