Doing Cam Install Tomorrow..
02-20-2007, 12:07 AM
#181
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Originally Posted by GT Griller
Yea it can be done on the ground but it sucks to do it.....Id rather do the cam again than do my stall.....I took the tranny out to rebuild it on the ground, and hated every moment of it.
yea sounds like something i would rather pay for... shouldnt be that much to drop the trany and swap out the converter.. wat like 300 you think?
02-20-2007, 12:31 AM
#182
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i did my clutch on jackstands. Its not that bad with a help from a couple friends that are willing to lay under your car and fight to get the trans in/out with you.
02-20-2007, 08:01 AM
#183
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Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
i did my clutch on jackstands. Its not that bad with a help from a couple friends that are willing to lay under your car and fight to get the trans in/out with you.
if i was still in cali...getting enough friends wouldnt be a problem.. but scence i just recently moved to texas i dont have very many... i have 3 friends that like working on cars.. but like1 of them that would want to help and not charge me.... but yea i dont really like working under the car that much.. i hate laying there having my arms get tired from holding up stuff... it was bad enough putting my starter back on for the cam swap....
02-20-2007, 09:10 PM
#187
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Originally Posted by pla-tym2
you're gonna learn alot after this install, I can tell. Do youself a favor and use the crane tool, you will be glad you did.
read my last post on this thread 
and i did use the crane tool!
02-20-2007, 11:35 PM
#192
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Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
awesome man! congrats on the numbers. And welcome to the club of still needing an LS6 intake 
02-21-2007, 06:53 AM
#193
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yea it sux.. there kinda pricey to! hopefully i can get one within the next few checks.. so i can break that 400 mark! 
graph will be up in abiT
graph will be up in abiT
02-21-2007, 09:03 AM
#194
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heres the link to where i posted the dyno graph.... ill have it up with photobucket later today after work.. and hopefully a vid...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/662657-got-my-car-dyno-tuned-wit-cam.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/662657-got-my-car-dyno-tuned-wit-cam.html
02-21-2007, 06:42 PM
#195
You took out the starter for a cam swap? What a waste of time and effort !The LS series is know for the ease with which the cam can be changed out because neither the heads or intake have to be removed as is the case in other engine (certainly removal or the starter motor is NOT needed) You made an easy job a lot harder by removing the starter motor. You should have followed my advise and used the chain wrench like I suggested. That way you would not have had to go to all the trouble of removing the starter. You find the chain wrench in the plumbing dept. at your local Sears or at any plumbing supply house. Try the chain wrench on your next swap. Your arms and starter motor will thank you.
02-21-2007, 06:52 PM
#196
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
You took out the starter for a cam swap? What a waste of time and effort !The LS series is know for the ease with which the cam can be changed out because neither the heads or intake have to be removed as is the case in other engine (certainly removal or the starter motor is NOT needed) You made an easy job a lot harder by removing the starter motor. You should have followed my advise and used the chain wrench like I suggested. That way you would not have had to go to all the trouble of removing the starter. You find the chain wrench in the plumbing dept. at your local Sears or at any plumbing supply house. Try the chain wrench on your next swap. Your arms and starter motor will thank you.
well i dont really remember you suggesting the chain wrench or telling me how to use it.. let me check back... it didnt take me that long to put back on... all it is really is two bolts, and one lil one for this plastic piece... the only thing i remember about is they sell a flywheel locking tool.. or if not wedge something in there...
02-23-2007, 12:29 AM
#198
The chain wrench in not a method that has been certified by any governing body. It's an idea I had on my own out of necessity and it works. A chain wrench is really a plumbers tool now infrequently used because most sewer pipe is now PVC instead of cast iron which is the chain wrenches intended use. The tool consists of what can be describe as a breaker bar with a section of chain attached to one end. The bar is about the size of a 1/2" drive breaker bar. I had to attach a few extra chain links to the end of the chain because it's intended to be used on 4" cast iron sewer pipe, but the crank pulley is closer to 8" in diameter. You wrap the chain links around the outer pulley face and attach a chain link to the notch in the end of the tool made for this purpose. You want to attach the link that takes the most slack out of the chain. You rotate the chain wrench bar in the opposite direction that you are turning the fastener to tension the chain links against the pulley face. This take two hands to do. I usually rotate the crank to get the end of the chain wrench bar against a frame member so I have two free hands to loosen the crank pulley bolt which as you know is torqued down very tight. You can use the chain wrench to either loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. It is not an expensive tool and it gets the job done without having to remove the starter motor. A chain wrench is like a strap wrench which you're probably familiar with, but it is used on much bigger jobs that require more force.
Last edited by eallanboggs; 02-23-2007 at 12:35 AM.
