Doing Cam Install Tomorrow..
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Doing Cam Install Tomorrow.. how can i keep the valves from falling while changing the springs? i can get ahold of a air compressor but i dont have that thing to stick it into the spark plug part... is there any other way??? i hope so!
also any things for me to look for and be careful on? im using ls1how to... for the install write up!...
wish me luck!
also any things for me to look for and be careful on? im using ls1how to... for the install write up!...
wish me luck!
If you've read the LS1howto instructions, you should already know the TDC method of holding the valves up.
Option 2
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
Top dead center method
This method requires you to put the piston at the highest position in the bore, so that when you start to compress the spring, the valve can only drop until it hits the piston. When the piston is at top dead center, the valve can't move very far at all.
There are several ways to accomplish this:
A) You can place a small stick/rod/straw/something into the spark plug hole and have a buddy turn the crankshaft by putting the stock 24mm crank pulley bolt in and turning the bolt with a wrench. You should be able to feel when the piston comes up to the top.
B) This method is a bit more elegant. Rotate your motor over by hand until your cam gear and crank gear are dot to dot like you set them up as earlier. At this position, piston 1 and 6 should be at top dead center. You can change the 4 springs on these 2 cylinders now using the instructions below. After you change those 4, then, rotate the crankshaft a full 90 degrees, and the cam gear dot will turn 45 degrees, as if it is pointing to 7:30 if it were a clock. Now piston 8 and 5 are at the top and can be changed. Rotate another 90 degrees on the crank and your cam gear dot will now be at 9 o'clock. Piston 7 and 4 can now have their springs changed. And FINALLY, rotate the crank another 90 degrees and the cam gear dot will be at 10:30. You can now change your remaining four springs on piston 3 and 2.
Once again, that's 1 & 6, rotate 90, 8 & 5, rotate 90, 7 & 4, rotate 90, 3 & 2.
have a magnet handy for them keepers they get lost REALLY easy!! and dont foget the water pump gaskets.
Oh and if ur going with dual springs.....them things can break some fingers!!! watch ur face.
Oh and if ur going with dual springs.....them things can break some fingers!!! watch ur face.
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
yes..dual springs.. and im reading the ls1howto thing rite now.. where can i find them magnets at? i dont remember seeing them at wallmart... i wasnt able to get the spring compressor from crane cams... so i got the one at advanced auto parts.. the walkthrough says it should be sufficient.. also im not worried bout the gaskets.. cuz i got that cam swap gasket thing from TSP..thats sufficient rite?
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Originally Posted by NviouSS
i know autozone has the pen magnets. napa, o'reilly and advance should have them also.
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you can get a pen magnent at almost any hardware/auto store. most auto stores should carry the thing to put in the spark plug hole as well. they usually come in leak down testing kits, you can just use it, and return it when your done(thats what i did).
i hope you picked up some extra keepers. even with a pen magnent i ended up loosing like 3 of them, but luckily i planned in advanced and bought an extra 5. they are only $1 a piece from the dealership.
Are you doing cam/valvesprings only, or oil pump and timing chain as well?
Good luck man! just remember not to rush yourself, and you should be ok.
i hope you picked up some extra keepers. even with a pen magnent i ended up loosing like 3 of them, but luckily i planned in advanced and bought an extra 5. they are only $1 a piece from the dealership.
Are you doing cam/valvesprings only, or oil pump and timing chain as well?
Good luck man! just remember not to rush yourself, and you should be ok.
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Verdad Gallardo i dont know what the valvespring compressor from Advance looks like but if its anything like the Vatozone one its not gonna work very well without modification.
good luck man
good luck man
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Originally Posted by NviouSS
keepers=vavle locks.
heres the pic of the tools i took..cant find my digital camera.. so there phone pics.. hope they help alil.. this thing is confusing..
just be very careful not to loose any. the worst things thats gunna happen is you have to wait till monday to get the part.
O ok your doing pump and chain as well.
Have fun with the pick-up tube bolt! tie some fishing line around it once you back it out a couple threads. this way if you drop it and it rolls back into the oil pan you can just yank it out. leave the fishing line on there when you go to put back in as well. and just yank it off when you tighten it. this saved my *** a couple times.
O ok your doing pump and chain as well.
Have fun with the pick-up tube bolt! tie some fishing line around it once you back it out a couple threads. this way if you drop it and it rolls back into the oil pan you can just yank it out. leave the fishing line on there when you go to put back in as well. and just yank it off when you tighten it. this saved my *** a couple times.
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Originally Posted by Mark@Kentucky-Speed
good luck with it. if you have any question just give me a call.
thanks, Mark
thanks, Mark
Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
just be very careful not to loose any. the worst things thats gunna happen is you have to wait till monday to get the part.
O ok your doing pump and chain as well.
Have fun with the pick-up tube bolt! tie some fishing line around it once you back it out a couple threads. this way if you drop it and it rolls back into the oil pan you can just yank it out. leave the fishing line on there when you go to put back in as well. and just yank it off when you tighten it. this saved my *** a couple times.
O ok your doing pump and chain as well.
Have fun with the pick-up tube bolt! tie some fishing line around it once you back it out a couple threads. this way if you drop it and it rolls back into the oil pan you can just yank it out. leave the fishing line on there when you go to put back in as well. and just yank it off when you tighten it. this saved my *** a couple times.
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Originally Posted by Mark@Kentucky-Speed
also watch that o ring on the pick up tube. take your time and it will be good to go. I am glad you decided to tackle it yourself.
thanks, mark
thanks, mark
will save me some bucks. so i can get some other mods
has anyone ever used a wooden dowel to hold up the lifters? if so.. do you kno what size i would need?
we always used steel ones on the installes we do. after we put the rods in the block you can turn the cam and listen for the lifter hitting the rods.
If I remember correctly the 5/16 in. rods we got them at lowes/homedepot.
Mark
If I remember correctly the 5/16 in. rods we got them at lowes/homedepot.
Mark
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From: _Nor caL_ (Bay areA)
Originally Posted by Mark@Kentucky-Speed
we always used steel ones on the installes we do. after we put the rods in the block you can turn the cam and listen for the lifter hitting the rods.
If I remember correctly the 5/16 in. rods we got them at lowes/homedepot.
Mark
If I remember correctly the 5/16 in. rods we got them at lowes/homedepot.
Mark