Doing Cam Install Tomorrow..
also pulling the radiator isnt bad. i pulled mine by myself. just took a little extra time walking from side to side of the car.
o ok cool... o yea one more question..scence i got a double roller timming chain.. does it gome with the top and bottom gear? is it hard to take off the bottom one? also yea i think i should be able to manage the radiator.. i member i pulled one on my old iroc by myself before... everything seems to be straight forward.. and not to hard.. my only concerns rite now are... changing the springs without dropping a valve, putting the crank pulley back on. and putting the pick up tube back on the oil pump... but i think just taking my time, and trying to do it calmly it should all go smoothly... i hope
also that tool that im buying for putting the pulley back on.. how do i use it? do i just start tightening it with that bolt.. and once its all the way on.. use the new crank bolt? o and ill have to line those dots up again rite? after i got all the springs on?
also that tool that im buying for putting the pulley back on.. how do i use it? do i just start tightening it with that bolt.. and once its all the way on.. use the new crank bolt? o and ill have to line those dots up again rite? after i got all the springs on?
A good trick i picked up from another member on here for putting the pick-up bolt back in is to
1. tie fishing line around it, incase you drop it
2. get a 10mm gear wrench and put the bolt in the wrench
3. hold the bolt with the wrench up to the threads and start threading it in with some small needle nose pliers
4. finish it off with the wrench
I thought it was going to be a major PITA, but with this method it only took me maybe 5 min at most.
i dont know for sure if you have to get it back to dot-to-dot after the springs. i dont see why you would need to if you already alligned them properly before. i cant remember if i did it to mine. i dont think so though.
as far as installing a double roller, im not sure, ive never done one. but try running a search for it. im sure you can find a couple threads on it
I forgot which cam your doing.
~Gregg~
will do bro!

i was gunna go ms4... but finnaly decided.. and just got the ms3... i would have had to sell my springs... and get new ones.. and it would have limited the heads i could use even more.. without fly cutting..
You can't use a two leg jaw type puller to remove dual springs. The outer spring will be compressed, but the inner will not. This keeps the retainer from being released so you can't get the keepers out. You'll need a tool that compresses BOTH springs at the same time from the top.
A threaded rod is a good way to push the pulley back on. The thread pitch is 16mmX2mm. You could buy a piece about a foot long or just get a bolt at least 120mm long. The OEM bolt is 103mm, but that's not long enough to pull the pulley on without taking the chance of damaging the first few threads in the crank snout. It's not worth it. Don't try it since your experience is limited.
Use a large 3 leg puller to get the pulley off. Posi-Lock is the best brand bar none. If you don't use Posi-Lock you'll need a helper to keep the puller legs in place till you get it tightened down unless you have three hands.
For the cam chain/oil pump drive sprocket on the crank you can use a small 2 leg puller.
I use a BIG allen head cap screw in the crank to buck the 3 leg puller rod up against when removing the pulley. This forces the puller rod to be self-centering. Place a couple of large flat washers under the head of the allen screw that are slightly smaller than the I.D. of the crank pulley.
There are numerous methods of securing the crank as you remove and install the pulley. I use a chain wrench on the pulley itself going off and back on. This method works well.
The rocker bolts are only torqued to 22 ft/lbs., but the locktite takes about 100 ft/lbs. of force to break. You'll need an 8mm 6 point socket and a breker bar with a short extension. You need to pop the breaker bar hard and fast to crack the locktite and then you can unscrew the bolts with your fingers. Keep the socket and breaker bar straight and square over the bolt head as you snap the locktite crystals into powder.
Take your time and ask more questions when you get stuck.
Last edited by eallanboggs; Feb 11, 2007 at 11:46 PM.
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But i didnt think they were that hard to break. i guess thats because of my huge manly muscles.
you will have help! 83,000+ ls1tech members

so how will i use a two leg puller to get the bottom timing gear off? does it have a bolt in the middle like the crank pulley?
Im guessing you would use it the same way as removing the pulley. i think the gear is just pressed on the crank snout. not positive though. like i said, ive never removed one before
also.. my true duals are being shipped today!
also.. my true duals are being shipped today! 
yeah man you can do it. its really not that hard at all.
Ah man you got duals to? thats gunna sound so bad ***. make sure you post up some vids when your done.
Heres a write-up of a few things i noticed and did during my MS3 install. Hope this helps.
-Joel
thanks for the link!
all the info i can get is a great help!

