Git some Pat!!!!! Show that shaft whose boss!

 

alrite.now i think im fucked!

i just read that with an adjustable timing chain u need to degree the cam... is this true?

if so how the hell am i gunna do that? dam.. i should have just got the regular one...

 

anyone?
setting up that adjustable chain seems pretty confusing.

also i got ****** more bad new today! there out of stock at thunder racing with that crane cams tool! ****** pisses me off! it better be here by friday!!! i dont feel like waiting another dam week!

 

The double timing chain does NOT require degreeing. You can set it up DOT to DOT or advance it or retard it up to 8 degrees in 2 degree increments(depending on the manufacturer). Of course you CAN degree it if you want. That's your option if you choose. Some of the steps can be frustrating. The hardest part is getting the pickup tube into the input port of the pump. You have to drop the pan for this step. You can drop the pickup tube flange bolt as many times as you like as long as you put a bunch of shop rags in the front of the pan to catch it just in case you drop it which you will. You also have to be careful to make sure the shims are oriented properly or you can block off the output port of the pump. Be sure the shim on the drivers side it turned properly to allow the pump output port to be FULLY open to the block. If you get this step wrong you don't get an ataboy for a very long time. Also getting the pickup tube is difficult to get into the input port of the pump because you're moving the pump forward 3mm, but the pickup tube doesn't want to move 3mm forward. A fight ensues. Best to take the pump cover off and remove the drive and driven gears to make getting the pickup tube into the pump input port easier. Not a lot easier, but a little easier. With the gears removed you can wriggle the pump body around to manuver it into position with the pickup tube which you can't do with the gears installed in the pump. Once you get the tube into the pump I'd get the tube flange bolt started finger tight only. Next put the gears and cover back on. This takes time and patience! Finally install the shims(correctly). and bolt the pump down. You put the shims and bolts in last because this allows you to manuver the pump during this whole process. Don't forget to go back and finish tightening the pickup tube bolt with a gear wrench. Don't overtighten it. If you break that one off you're going to be VERY sorry you did.

 

thanks bro! thats alot of help! yea i dunno if i want to take the oil pump apart.. id prolly not get it back together rite... as for the shimming.. do you kno of a write up on it? or how its done?

 

If you don't take the pump apart you're going to catch hell trying to get the pickup tube into the input port of the pump. It's hard enough with the pump apart. With it assembled you're going to use every four letter word in the book before you get it in there. You only have to do this if you're going to change out your timing set. The information provided with the Rollmaster leaves a lot to be desired. They speak Australian and their instructions don't translate very clearly into English. My last post was about the most information you're going to get on the subject. The only thing you have to be mindful of is that the output port located on the drivers side must not be block by the shim.

 

ok. today when i get home.. ima prolly unbolt the oil pump to get a look at it... and see how it looks..get familiar with it.. and putting it back together... now my oil pump didnt come with shims... are those something i can pick up at an auto parts store? o and also.. when i put tht cover back on the oil pump.. do i need to put any kind of rtv or gasket maker???

 

The shims come with the double row chain timing set. If you're not installing a double timing set you don't have shims. No RTV or anything else goes on the pump. When you pull the pump cover off you will notice one gear(can't remember if it is the drive or driven gear) has a tiny mark on it. Some kind of a symbol which I didn't recognize. This faces out. You might want to put a tiny scribe mark on the other gear to be sure it face out too when you put the pump back together. You don't need to take the pump apart unless you're installing a double timing set. If you're just installing a new pump and keeping the single row timing set you can just swap the pumps without taking either one apart. If you're not using a double timing set it is much easier to get the pickup tube back into the pump body. In this case taking the pump apart probably isn't necessary. No one recommended taking the pump apart to me. I found this method out of necessity because it is so difficult to get the tube into the pump when installing a double timing set. Having the gears out and just dealing with an empty pump body makes it a lot easier. That's not to say it's a breeze because it's not, but this does help quite a bit with the tight fit.

 

o ok..yea bro its a double roller.. the rollmaster from texas speed.. but i havnt opened it yet so i dunno wats in the box.... but yea ill take it apart today.. and check it out.. thanks for all the help! if i come across anyting ill be sure to ask more questions! thanks alot for everything you have been a tremendous help!!! rite now im hopping that my crane cams tool gets here before friday.. cuz they say there back ordered... they say at latest it would be a week before they get more... so im preying that they do get it to me... and yes it does make alot of scence taking the pump apart to get the pick up tube one... does it make it any easier to tell if i pinched the o-ring or not? is there anyway really to tell if you got the pick up tube on rite with the o-ring?

 

The is a shoulder on the pickup tube that positions the "O" ring in the proper place. There is no way to tell whether you have pinched the "O" ring during the installation process unless you have super powers and can see thru metal to tell. That's an additional benefit of taking the pump apart. It gives you a little more room to work with when trying to get the pickup tube started into the pump port. With it assembled you have to push and twist and turn everything any way you can to get the tube to go in. It's not easy because the pump has to be moved 3mm forward because that's how thick the shims are, but the pickup tube is still in its' original location. Having the pump apart probably decreases the chance of pinching the "O" ring, but you never know for sure until you turn the key for the first time and wait those few long seconds to see if the pump gauge comes to life.

 

i just called in at thunder for my order on the crane tool i made last month they just sent me the more tool same price as the crane one, as long as it does teh job

 

first of all..very sexy car in the sig my car used to look just like that.. till my grill was stolen, and i got zo6 wheels...


but yea.. i cancelled my order with thunderracing today..cuz they had no idea when they were getting more.. and ordered it from summit racing... i paid 10 dollars more, and im getting it friday... i wasnt bout to wait another ****** week for my cam install...

that one that they sent u..dosnt it only do one spring at a time? but ur rite.. if it gets the job done **** IT! lol.. but in my case.. i wanted the easiest possible!


also question for you guys... i bought a torque wrench from home depot.. seems like a really nice one... has its on case and everything.. and goes up to 250 lbs torqe... its a half inch.. that should be fine rite? all the bolts that need to be torqed should need a half inch rite? if smaller than i can just getg alil adapter...

duals get here tomorrow... and spring compressor tool gets here friday.. cam should hopefully be done sometime saturday nite... if not sometime sunday...

im starting to take stuff apart friday after work, than start to work on everything else saturday morning!

 

The tricky thing about torque wrenchs, especially the 'click type' wrench, is that they are most accurate over a specific range. The wrench that you bought might be real close at 250 ft-lb and not off enough to worry about at 50 - 75 ft-lb, but below 30 ft-lb they become questionable. Ideally, you want either a digital wrench adapter, or a small (up to 75-100 ft-lb) wrench for engine work, plus an in-lb wrench for the small stuff.

 

well i havnt opened it.. should i exchange it for the smaller one? they said i would need up to 150 on ls1howto..... but they one they had only went up to 100...

 

Just did a 04 ZO6 cam/head/header install last week at my shop. The crank bolt is not to be reused as it is torque to yield. The new bolt is first torqued to 37 ft lbs, then 140*. The stock LS2 timing chain is the way to go as it fits on your stock sprockets, then there is no spacing of the oil pump needed.

Russ Kemp

 

THANks for the info bout torqing the crank... but bout the chain.. i heard the ls2 chain was really noisy.. and was recomended the double roller... i already got the double roller.. so im just gunna suck it up... say every cuss word there is.. and get that bitch on there... ima go back to home depot.. hopefully they have a torqe wrench good to 150 ft lbs...

 

The LS2 chain makes no noise at all. How are you going to get the pick up tube to line up with out first loosening the nut that supports the pick up tube? Also your fan belt won't line up right with out machining your harmonic balancer. In some cases you might have to grind the back side of the timing cover to clear the oil pump.

Russ Kemp

 

it can be done.. i have plenty of friends that have done it... ls1howto says it can be done... YES its more of a bitch to do... but like ls1howto says.. if ur up for the challenge its worth it... i never heard bout the belt not ligning up... and TSP said that the timing cover will fit just fine... that is also the first that i have heard bout the timing cover.. the only time i have heard bout machining the pulley is when you get an after market underdrive pulley witch i do not have...

 

The rocker bolts are 22ft/lbs. You can't get that value with a 1/2" torque wrench. Better to use a 3/8" or better yet a 1/4" beam type instead of a clicker for them. It would be nice to have the pickup tube bolt loose, but that requires removing the pan. A lot of work. I found it easier to take the pump apart and put the empty body on the crank and get the tube in with the gears removed rather than removing the pump to gain access to that bolt. It's your choice on which method to use. You're going to have to take all the pan bolts out anyway in order to install the Rollmaster just so you can get the pan to drop far enough to get the pickup tube out. At that point you can decide if you want to do the additional work to get the pan all the way off so you can loosen the tube bracket bolt or take the pump apart. It's your choice. You don't have to take the pump apart if you don't want to, but be prepared to do some cursing when it's time to get the tube into mesh with the pump port. The single crank sprocket is demensionally the same as the double one. The difference is the dual has a double row set of theeth and the cogs that turn the oil pump drive gear are postioned futher outboard. The front face of the crank sprocket is not going to contact the inside of the timing cover. If it does you have not driven the sprocket fully home against the boss on the crank when you installed it. Actually the crank pulley should push the sprocket fully home when you tighten the bolt to 250ft/lbs if you didn't already do it when you mounted it. Of course we don't leave things to chance like that now do we?

 

well i can still return that torqe wrench.... do you kno of one that would work good for a cam swap? and where i can pick it up? and wouldnt i need a 1/2 inch one for the crank bolt?

also ima try installing the empty pump body to the pick up tube like u suggested....seems like it would make it alil easier and makes scence...also do i bolt the pump all they way to the block..and than try to get the pick up tube on? or the other way around?