Collapsed Lifter?
Originally Posted by Halloran
Well, I'm going to take the heads off today and make sure there's no extra damage to the engine. While all this stuff is off, would it be a wise decision to just take off the timing chain and replace it with a roller chain? The engine has 140k miles on it and from what I know the chain has never been replaced. Also, do you think I should do a cam swap? I don't know if I can afford new heads right now so would my stock heads be sufficient? Inputs?
Thanks
Thanks
Pulling the heads means your gonna have pull the PS pully too, as well as clean everything, and I mean spotlessly clean and dry. Its not worth it since everything else is likely fine.
If you do pull the heads you dont need to pull the front cover off so I wouldnt even bother pulling the cover to replace the timing chain. How many times have you heard of a timing chain breaking on these engines anyway?
If you still decide to do it anyway, buy some ARP head studs.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Originally Posted by Halloran
Yeah it bent the valve, piston hit valve pretty hard it's noticeable anyway. We're going to just end up pulling the engine I'm sure at this point. 
Last edited by DaddySS; Feb 17, 2007 at 03:02 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks very much for the input. I will try to save myself as much hassle as possible and do the repairs with the engine inside the car. I will definetely be doing the cam since the heads and the front block are being disassembled. What cam should I look into getting if I want to replace it? I don't need anything ridiculous just something to maybe push the upper 300 hp range or possible 400 hp range with a new intake if I decide to get a new one.
thanks again
thanks again
Originally Posted by Halloran
Thanks very much for the input. I will try to save myself as much hassle as possible and do the repairs with the engine inside the car. I will definetely be doing the cam since the heads and the front block are being disassembled. What cam should I look into getting if I want to replace it? I don't need anything ridiculous just something to maybe push the upper 300 hp range or possible 400 hp range with a new intake if I decide to get a new one.
thanks again
thanks again
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Put together a combo based on your requirements. I don't see headers etc. so you need to decide what you want the car to do. If you're staying with the stock manifolds for a daily driver then a nice conservative setup is the way to go. Bigger is not better, it's all about combo.
Originally Posted by DaddySS
Put together a combo based on your requirements. I don't see headers etc. so you need to decide what you want the car to do. If you're staying with the stock manifolds for a daily driver then a nice conservative setup is the way to go. Bigger is not better, it's all about combo.
How would I go about smoothing out the piston? Just get a high grit piece of sandpaper and smoothe it down or use a metal file? Will the nick in the piston mess up compression or anything? I just want to make sure I do this right.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,907
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From: Bergen County, NJ
You'll probably get lots of good ideas on here so stay tuned...
Clean the piston with a scraper (plastic), scotch brite pad, and either brake Kleen, WD40, etc. what ever works - here again I'm sure there are some good ideas from the board. You want to be careful not to score the piston, the block surface, cylinder wall etc. Bring the piston to TDC of course to gain good access. Once it is cleaned then smooth the nick with a file, emory cloth, etc. I don't recommend sandpaper simply because the sand will be coming of and getting down around the rings. Vacuum, blow it out with air, when you're done. You just want to be sure to get rid of any sharp edges in or around the nick that can heat up and cause detonation. The volume of the nick is not a worry for compression, it's really pretty minor.
Clean the piston with a scraper (plastic), scotch brite pad, and either brake Kleen, WD40, etc. what ever works - here again I'm sure there are some good ideas from the board. You want to be careful not to score the piston, the block surface, cylinder wall etc. Bring the piston to TDC of course to gain good access. Once it is cleaned then smooth the nick with a file, emory cloth, etc. I don't recommend sandpaper simply because the sand will be coming of and getting down around the rings. Vacuum, blow it out with air, when you're done. You just want to be sure to get rid of any sharp edges in or around the nick that can heat up and cause detonation. The volume of the nick is not a worry for compression, it's really pretty minor.
Last edited by DaddySS; Feb 18, 2007 at 05:47 AM.
Guys I think I did the same thing! I opened my valve cover and found a broken spring. Put a new one in and still no compression from #4! only checked that pushrod and it was fine. Anyone have any ideas? would that be the only pushrod that could be bent from #4? Do I need to pull the head as well? That is about as far as I can go since I don't know much on how to work on this thing.
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From: AUSTIN TX
Originally Posted by Halloran
Yeah it bent the valve, piston hit valve pretty hard it's noticeable anyway. We're going to just end up pulling the engine I'm sure at this point.
you guys can check for bent valves by simply doin a compression test. pull all the plugs, buy a $30 compression test set from sears/whereever, and crank the eng. over 3 revs for each cyl. what your looking for are cyls. that are alot lower then the others. usually a bent valve will be lower the 100psi. the readings should be around 150psi on most engines. I havent ever tested this on an LS1 before. but basically the bad valve cyl. will be alot lower then good cyl.s.
Originally Posted by Irocss85
you guys can check for bent valves by simply doin a compression test. pull all the plugs, buy a $30 compression test set from sears/whereever, and crank the eng. over 3 revs for each cyl. what your looking for are cyls. that are alot lower then the others. usually a bent valve will be lower the 100psi. the readings should be around 150psi on most engines. I havent ever tested this on an LS1 before. but basically the bad valve cyl. will be alot lower then good cyl.s.