Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Old 02-19-2007, 06:44 PM
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Got my heads off and it's a exhaust valve. The guys and the shop told me I need to replace all my springs and maybe upgrade the rockers. Do you guys have any sugestions? I have stage 3 Heads that flow at 325 and the cam is 228/232 .588/.595 114. If I change the cam out is there any more HP to be gotten?
Old 02-22-2007, 01:24 PM
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Well I tested the passenger side head with some gasoline in the bowls to see if they would hold the fluid. 3 of the 4 bowls held the fluid but the one in the prior pic with the carbon deposits definetely has a bent valve. I can see the lip of the bowl. Fluid went straight through the the floor. Now, I just need to know what I should be looking for. Should I be looking for a good set of LS6 heads and start doing the LS6 conversion? A valve job from a machine shop is going to cost $550. I can get new heads for that much money. If I do get the LS6 heads will I need a LS6 intake manifold too? I'm not real sure what's required on the LS6 upgrade conversion but I'm kind of intrigued because I hear alot of good things about it. I don't think I'm going to pull the engine at this point because it's going to be way over my head and I'm not a mechanic. Also, if I get the 228/230 cam will I need to change the lift or will I have to worry about anything else changing?

Thanks again
Old 02-22-2007, 05:33 PM
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I would get a set of ported/polished LS6 heads and since the manifold is gonna be off anyway pick up an LS6 manifold while youre at it although you dont need to.

I am confused about you cam question. Just order the cam with whatever lift you want to have.
Old 02-22-2007, 07:21 PM
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you can get a valve job for around $200 anywhere, I paid something like $275 for a CNC 5 angle valvejob through ETPerformance since there local to me. to do awesome work and take good care of there customers. find a link to there sight in the list of supporting venders.
and dont forget you need atleast one new valve. but there cheap. if you can afford it though Id get the LS6 heads or 243's tsp is selling really cheap for brand new heads. see how much extra the cnc port is. if I remember right new heads ported was around $900. and the 224 cam or 228 cam will suit you just fine Im sure for a daily driver. dont worry about the LS6 intake yet, its easy enough to swap out anytime. for now you gotta invest some money where it counts while its apart to this stage IMO.
Old 02-22-2007, 07:46 PM
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I over revved the motor one night smoking an evo. (2nd instead of 4th for just a moment)

I had a cracked valve spring.

Changed the valve springs to comp 921's.

Car was acting weird before bad downshift...and vibrated a bit at higher rpms...I was chasing down the issue as an electrical issue because the crappy old FLP headers were touching the wires and burning them....(so I thought that was the cause of the miss but it was a fractured valve spring)

Ran it like that for a while with that upper rpm vibration. Hope I didn't damage anything in the head. Anybody know if running a broken valve spring (fractured) allowing valve float I guess..(Like I said I thought it was burnt spark plug wires that were continually getting toasted by poorly designed flp headers that were the bain of my existance for far too long)

Took it to a few tuners and nobody pegged what was goin on because I had headers that were leaking and were continually burning wires (replaced w/new headers and on a dyno the car ran like crap. Car needed new springs so I air shipped in comp 921's and had them installed.

I guess I could have sold the FLP's to another corvette owner for 500 but didn't want to do that to someone else..(primary tubes were touching wires because the tube was designed by accident a bit short and it was a known issue)

Car still ran a bit weird but I did a GM carbon buildup procedure...(similiar to seafoam)

car ran great! now its returning so I'm hoping running a bottle of seafoam through gas tank helps..which it did ..

and then do a tune...

full throttle is kick @ss but part throttle is weird when the car gets hot and driven for a few hours. I think its case of getting a great dyno tune but the car is need of a good road tune. A couple of hours I believe and the great guys who did the comp 921 install didn't have the time as I was in a rush to pick up the car...

I had the compression checked later on and it was around 180 at each cylinder ..and we took out all the pushrods and they rolled straight and smooth.

I'm hoping its a tune issue and not a bent valve. Considering the compression was 180 should the valves be straight?

Thanks again...

I'd also go for the TSP dual valve spring LS6 heads and a 228/228 114lsa cam if I were you. The 224/224 114 is a good cam but after awhile you'll want more.

There has been mention of a cheater cam that doesn't require headers and makes good power so maybe thats a good idea for you since you don't have headers and don't want to spend the money right now?

any insight on my situation would be appreciated.

Compression at 180
Pushrods were straight..

Does that imply the heads and pistons are ok?

Since full throttle seems good....would that imply I just need a street tune?

I'm going to try a street tuner doing his stuff in the next few weeks but read this post and thought I'd ask..

(edit: sorry for posting this up on someone elses thread. if it is inappropriate pls let me know and I will delete my post)

Good luck to the starter of the thread. TSP heads with cheater cam might make a good combo, if it doesn't require headers to make the most power as mentioned earlier)

Last edited by JBsZ06; 02-22-2007 at 08:33 PM.




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