I assume these will be SG nodular cranks. Will they have rolled fillets? Thanks, Mike.

 

Hey Guys,

The list is to a point where I consider that I can do this. It's do-able! OK, I need as many as possible, to keep the shared costs of shipping down. This is the list so far:

Nodular 4" stroke Crank, definite's:

Ken
Nine Ball
99BlackBirdT/A
11Bravo
doc2121
WinSuperSport

Nudular 4" crank, Maybe's:
BParker
Jleews6
Gator's99TA
Reckless
Jake99SS
Scott 98Z M6
ezss
NoGo
Formulation
RacerZ

Billet crank list (Any stroke u want):
JSears
Evo98z

That's it so far. If you want one of these, post your name. When there available, I can make it happen.
Cheers. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ July 20, 2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: Will Race 4 Food ]</small>

 

I want a billet

 

I want one...oh do I ever want one...what the hell it's only money...

Put me on the list for a nodular 4" crank, if the price will be under $1000

 

Yes, I'm interested to but can you establish if they have rolled fillets on the crank pins, thanks, Mike.

 

I'd be interested in one as well.

 

I want one, any info on crank trigger. If it does not have one what do I do? Use oem?

 

I want one, any info on crank trigger. If it does not have one what do I do? Use oem?

 

I like the way this sounds... I may be interested in one of those cranks. Which one is the better of the two for strength and durability?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Scott:
<strong>Which one is the better of the two for strength and durability?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am too very interested in one, but I would like to know the difference between a nodular and billet crank.

 

move me over to the definite list, Thanks

 

Put me down on the maybe for the 4" Nodular Crank, also let me know what the total would be and when these will be available. Thanks

 

In reply to Ls1290 & Scott

Hi, my understanding is that SG nodular iron is better for toughness and durability plus it's usually cheaper to produce (because it comes from a casting). It's also much easier to machine. You will probably find that the LS1 crank is made from (SG Spherical Graphite) nodular iron as opposed to grey iron. Billet on the other hand is machined (turned down in a lathe) from a solid piece of very dense (probably hammer formed) round bar. There is a lot of wastage here and a lot time goes into machining, even the counterweights have to be machined. Billet is probably the ultimate for strength but is probably more brittle, it's also very very heavy due to it's density. You pays your money and takes your choice! Me, I occasionally cast cranks in nodular but don't have patterns made for the LS1. For ultimate revs you would probably want the billet item along with billet internals. In between the two you could choose a forging (off the shelf) for mid-way properties. If you get rolled fillets (which the LS1 crankshaft has) instead of a radius on the journals you can increase the strength of the crank pins on a nodular crank. Again rolled fillets are harder to come by and more costly but they would be a useful bonus to have on a stroked cast crankshaft. Mike.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike at Boost Performance.co.uk:
<strong>In reply to Ls1290 & Scott

Hi, my understanding is that SG nodular iron is better for toughness and durability plus it's usually cheaper to produce (because it comes from a casting). It's also much easier to machine. ........... Billet is probably the ultimate for strength but is probably more brittle, it's also very very heavy due to it's density........... Mike.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the reply Mike, but it seems that the statements are a little contradicting. Is the nodular cranks more geared to Street Performance and billet cranks for high rpm racing? I am going to be running a **** load of N2O through the motor and I hear heard that forged billet componets are the way to go.

 

Ls1290, Hi IMHO you are basically going from the toughness/durability at one end of the scale to ultimate hardness at the other end of the scale and you choose what you want. For normal rpm use I would stick with sg nodular iron as its very tough and durable plus reasonably priced. I think nowadays most vehicles use this sort of crank, sometimes going up on main bearing diameter to reduce overlap and increase strength. Even trucks which used to use forgings have switched to nodular iron. Obviously a cast iron nodular crank reduces production costs compared to a custom race type hand made billet item. For my own project I am sticking with the stock crank and using boost butstaying within fairly stock rpm limits apart from the odd burst. High rpm, extended endurance use won't be a factor I have to consider. On high boost and over the 1/4 mile it's only going to take, what 11-13 seconds and then how fast will you be going? Doubtful you will be going much faster on the street for any real length of time without changing up a gear and reducing the rpms which cause huge damage/stress to the engine. If my rpm's were within stock limits I would stick with noduler iron or a stock LS1 crank. For higher rpms then stock I would next consider a forged iron item, then a forged steel item and for the really highly stressed highest rpm engine, money no object then you would probably choose the billet item. LS1 parts are so reasonably priced you could start with a stock crank and see what happens. I doubt you will break it just because you are using Nos. On the other hand if you up the rpm's then square laws and all that stuff mean there will be serious stresses to consider along with alternative cranks. What rpm's will you use? Thats the determining factor that I would be considering. Would a billet item last as long as a nodular item? I don't know the answer to that one. Mike.

 

Put me on the definite list for the 4" nodular crank. As long as it can take a 250-300 shot of spray <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

If I were to put that crank in a 6.0L block, what is the maximum displacement I can make? If I bore it as well?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryan Gardner:
<strong>
If I were to put that crank in a 6.0L block, what is the maximum displacement I can make? If I bore it as well?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">4.155" bore x 4.075" Stroke = 442 CID
4.155" bore x 4.125" Stroke = 447 CID ( with block machined clearancing for rods )

 

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Put me down on the list for sure!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

 

What stroke would it take to get 400 cu.in. on the stock bore?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ryan Gardner:
<strong>Put me on the definite list for the 4" nodular crank. As long as it can take a 250-300 shot of spray <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

If I were to put that crank in a 6.0L block, what is the maximum displacement I can make? If I bore it as well?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Max. bore on a 6.0L is around 4.06"

4.06" bore * 4" stroke = ~414ci. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

AzzHauler - You'd need a 4.1875"(4 3/16)" crank to get 400ci. outta the stock 3.9" LS1 bore. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

John