Budget Fordged Build?
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Budget Fordged Build? hey guys,
I have 20k miles on my 2002 ls1. I want to push some serious boost to get up to at LEAST 700rwhp...maybe closer to 800rwhp
What parts and machine work will I need to have done to do a budget build on my motor to handle this power?
I emailed Thunder Racing for a quote, but I am still awaiting a reply
I will do the assembly myself, I just need a list of everything I should get
Thanks guys!
Sponsors feel free to chime in
I have 20k miles on my 2002 ls1. I want to push some serious boost to get up to at LEAST 700rwhp...maybe closer to 800rwhp
What parts and machine work will I need to have done to do a budget build on my motor to handle this power?
I emailed Thunder Racing for a quote, but I am still awaiting a reply
I will do the assembly myself, I just need a list of everything I should get
Thanks guys!
Sponsors feel free to chime in
forged dished diamond pistons. Piston rings. Eagle rods. Rod and main bearings. rod bolts. Crank polisging and cylinder bore.
700Hp and budget do not go together. If you can shell out $$ then dont try it since **** will eventually break at those power levels.
700Hp and budget do not go together. If you can shell out $$ then dont try it since **** will eventually break at those power levels.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
I guess I should clairfy myself a little more
I'm looking for a strong reliable setup, but I don't want to buy the top of the line parts. I'm not running the hell out of this thing, but I just want something strong without top of the line everything
thanks guys!
I'm looking for a strong reliable setup, but I don't want to buy the top of the line parts. I'm not running the hell out of this thing, but I just want something strong without top of the line everything
thanks guys!
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I would look at Speed Inc. They are doing some inovative work with turbos. They did my SB and it runs well NA. I should be 9.X on a little 347.
The post above that stated 700 HP and cheap don't go together is dead on accurate.
400 HP and cheap can be done. After that it gets expensive. It does look like you have done some of the foundation work though. I would spend some time on 2 things. What do I want the car to do? and What are the down stream effects of that choice? Then talk to sponsors and get an idea of where to head.
The post above that stated 700 HP and cheap don't go together is dead on accurate.
400 HP and cheap can be done. After that it gets expensive. It does look like you have done some of the foundation work though. I would spend some time on 2 things. What do I want the car to do? and What are the down stream effects of that choice? Then talk to sponsors and get an idea of where to head.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
I would look at Speed Inc. They are doing some inovative work with turbos. They did my SB and it runs well NA. I should be 9.X on a little 347.
The post above that stated 700 HP and cheap don't go together is dead on accurate.
400 HP and cheap can be done. After that it gets expensive. It does look like you have done some of the foundation work though. I would spend some time on 2 things. What do I want the car to do? and What are the down stream effects of that choice? Then talk to sponsors and get an idea of where to head.
The post above that stated 700 HP and cheap don't go together is dead on accurate.
400 HP and cheap can be done. After that it gets expensive. It does look like you have done some of the foundation work though. I would spend some time on 2 things. What do I want the car to do? and What are the down stream effects of that choice? Then talk to sponsors and get an idea of where to head.
I want the car to run low 10's in the 1/4. I DON'T go to the track every weekend, so I would say the car would see 50-60% on the street and 40-50% of track time. I feel this way I can get away with a strong motor but not a "race grade".
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by TeEnAgE pHeNoM
Your car right now should go mid to high 10's and with some weight taken out you could run low 10's. 
Plus I don't want to do any weight reduction, I want to keep it looking factory....well besides the 8pt
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I would trust Larry. The stock SB should support that but how well is the question. The iron block will take lots of boost. It could be a reliability issue.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Check out SDPC too. I got a helluva deal from Matt there with my current build 
i sent them an email but i am still waiting to hear back from them
Originally Posted by MetallicaMatt
i sent them an email but i am still waiting to hear back from them
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WHIPPLE Superchargers, Procharger, Magnuson, Powerbond Sale, HPTuners packages!, Trickflow, AFR, PRC, CHE Trunion upgrade, $100 7.400" pushrod set, Custom Cam of your choice
800-456-0211 / PM / Facebook
WHIPPLE Superchargers, Procharger, Magnuson, Powerbond Sale, HPTuners packages!, Trickflow, AFR, PRC, CHE Trunion upgrade, $100 7.400" pushrod set, Custom Cam of your choice
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Originally Posted by Matt @ SDPC
Did you send ME an e-mail? I'm caught up on e-mails finally to the best of my knowledge! Fire it away again and we'll see what we can do for you.
Never thought to use the email feature on the forumns, duh
PM me your email and I will resend.
thanks!
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KITSD32621F25
check this kit out at SDPC2000.com, I run it with 250+ shot and get 630RWHP easy, cam selection, valvetrain, and tuning is key as always but I still get 22MPG going back and forth to work and have lots of fun at the track. If I wanted to spend 3 or 4,000 dollars I'd have a lot more than forged internals.
check this kit out at SDPC2000.com, I run it with 250+ shot and get 630RWHP easy, cam selection, valvetrain, and tuning is key as always but I still get 22MPG going back and forth to work and have lots of fun at the track. If I wanted to spend 3 or 4,000 dollars I'd have a lot more than forged internals.
