11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

Yall read the post about COME coming out with cheap cranks. I'm on the list for a 4" crank. Since it looks like it's gonna happen, I am going to stop modding my engine and just collect parts for a new motor. I plan on a stock aluminum block, forged pistons and rods. What parts should I plan for, and what extra work(and $$) will need to be done (like balancing)? What would be a good cam for it? It will see mostly street duty in an A4, I'm keeping the Vig 3200. I'm leaning toward the MMS229. Should I get the block bored (how much?), and what would the cubes be if I do/do not bore it? How much extra power would boring the cylinders give me? Sorry for all the questions. I did a search, but I would be an old man before I found all these answers lol. I know others are interested, so might as well put it in one post.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

And, btw, I plan on running JPR stage 2 heads <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

I am thinking about doing the same thing and this is what I have come up with so far:

1) bare block
2) main caps
3) main bearing
4) main bolts
5) connecting rods
6) connecting rod bearings
7) crankshaft
8) lifters - hydraulic or roller
9) main front seal
10) camshaft
11) cam bearings
12) timing chain
13) harmonic damper
14) push rods
15) heads( that can be an entire list in its self <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> )
16) head bolts/studs and gaskets

I am sure I still have things to add to my list, but so far I think I am on track.

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

382 ci with stock sleeves you can`t bore the stock block. You would need to resleeve the block to go any bigger bore. And put some big valves in those heads for the extra cubes.

Nate

Jackyl_30

you can hone all blocks. going for bigger bore is an issue depending on what year.

ARP sells main studs now. may want to consider them. you will want the block honed and decked. also deck the heads, port them, and may want to consider double springs. have the rotating assembly balanced (with crank pully and fly wheel as well). here is what is going into mine:

Lunati 4340 forged crank
J&E pistons (dish) 9.5:1 compression ratio
J&E rings
Manley Pro Series Light Weight connecting rods
Comp Cams 218 / 224 .527 / .534 114 LSA cam
Comp Cams adjustable timing set
Crane Cams 1.8 rocker arm kit
Comp Cams 987 valve spring
Titanium retainers
King bearings
ARE high flow oil pump
Manley Valves
LS6 intake manifold
Ported throttle body
Polished, ported, 5 angle valve job heads
Balanced rotating assembly
ARP head/main cap studs
T Rex in-line pump
Walbro 255L in-tank pump
Billet high flow rails (#10 in #6 out)
42lbs injectors
After-cooled Vortech T trim supercharger (13psi)

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

What size rods will I need? And, what is the advandage of getting the block honed v.s. not? I just want to get an idea of the exact parts I need to collect and work to be done. I'll rely on JPR to take care of the heads I need. I want to get the ball rolling and start looking for a block next week. Hopefully I can find good deals on this site and others, and have everything when the cranks come out. Should be able to build a pretty cheap stroker. And, do yall think the MMS229 would be a good street cam for a n/a 383?

<small>[ July 23, 2002, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: 11 Bravo ]</small>