bo0oost

Hey guys,

Searched the archives, and they didn't answer my questions completely, so here they go.

I just got my LS1, and want to start doing the safety mods before I start adding power. I'm getting oil pressure, fuel pressure, and water temp gauges. For the water temp, I was researching that I need to get a cooler thermostat, and with that, I need to adjust my fan switch. I was going to get the SLP 160 thermostat, and SLP manual fan switch. Are these good? Or are they pretty much all the same?

Also, is there something to just trigger the fans to flip on at 160f, and not 215f? That way I won't have to have the fan switch.

For interior heat, will the 160 hurt the heater? What are the benefits of 160 over 180? I live in Fremont, CA (bay area), and its usually around 70-80 deg here.

Is an upgraded radiator recommended?

Sorry if I sound paranoid, it's an all aluminum motor, and aluminum melts at ~230f, which is awfully close to the 215f the stock fans come on at, so it scares me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Thanks guys!!

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Hope you are enjoying you car as much as I am. These are the things I have learned in the past 11 months of having my car. To start off with I live in Arizona (outskirts of Phoenix) so I have a "little" more problem with heat <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> .

1) I love the 160 thermostat. I got mine from RKSport (before I figured out how much they jack up the price <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> ) but any one should work the same. Cooler is better. The engine does not usually run that cool even when the temp is down in the mid 40s. I can start using my heater down around 130 or so.

2) I am going to set up a manual fan switch soon. I have HPP3 so I have set my fans to run at the lower temp. You should really get something "like" that so the computer can run them automatically and you can just use the manual switch for specific times (just before you make a pass).

3) After getting my oil temp gauge, I found out that my oil temp tended to stay above 200 degrees (with the water in the 180s) and at times could go as high as 250. I added a three tube oil cooler and now the oil can often stay below the temp of the water (highest ever with oil cooler has been 210 on a HOTTTT day). Look into doing that. It also helped with my oil consumption (oil stays thicker and can't get past the rings).

4) The all aluminum radiator would be a nice thing (I know I would love to have it). I just don't know of any that will work with AC. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> If you can find one, post about it because I would love to swap out for more cooling.

Just to say, aluminum does not melt at around 230 degrees <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> . If it did your engine would NEVER even last past crank up (cylinders are MUCH hotter than that). It takes a lot to "melt" and engine <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . I believe the problem is that aluminum expands very rapidly and to a much larger extent than iron. So if you heat aluminum engine up too fast, it can warp, and if you get it too hot it can expand too much and seize parts. There is no reason not to search for more cooling capacity. If you get "too much," then that’s why you have a thermostat. It will only open up when the engine gets too warm.

Later

Chris <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />