ArcticZ28

iTrader: (14)

I wouldn't be so quick as to say the problem is the fact that it's a double roller. Plenty of people run double roller's, including myself, and the worst problems they have had is having to shim the oil pump. I'm curious to hear how a timing chain could be installed wrong other than the teeth being off.

LSGUNSS

iTrader: (41)

I am running a Double Roller with no problems. I did have to shim the oil pump though. I would pull the front cover and make sure the timing set bolts are tight. Good luck!

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

It's probably something in the instrument cluster computer (or the wires running to it from the PCM). If the RPM output via the ALDL is OK, it isn't the reluctor or the sensor or the wiring up to the PCM/ECM. You might check the wiring from the PCM to the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster computer, or it could be the tach itself.

If the reluctor wheel was screwed up or the crank position sensor, the engine wouldn't run correctly nor would you get a correct RPM output. Believe me on this. I'm an electronics engineer and am very familiar with how the crank and cam sensors work with the PCM. You'll get this figured out and fixed. Be thankful that the engine runs well and you don't have to tear it down because something really is wrong with the reluctor wheel.

All my best,

Steve

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

I understand all that, It does run like dog **** though. Its hard to crank, it will just turn over for a sec or two before it will fire. And even then after its running it feels weaker then the previous motor. Ive checked and checked all wires that I can find. The thing is that it worked perfectly when the other motor was in, and I keep getting those two SES codes for the cam sensor. Friday night Im going to pull the front cover to check all that so I can rule that out. Ill also get the codes and post them up. Im willing to try anything at this point, This car is the guys DD so I need to figure this out ASAP. Thanks for all the replies so far. Keep em coming.

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

i didnt say it wasnt possible to run a double roller, its just they are more problems if they arent installed right....my mechanic didnt shim the oil pump, so thats how he installed it wrong. He could read the rpms with a scanner, but the tach didnt work for ****. it was also very hard to start up. i also kept getting a code for the camshaft sensor (po343?) i think that was the code. and we replaced that sensor with a brand new one... but anyways, i'd check the timing chain. it took me 8 months to figure out it was the damn timing chain after checking everything else!!!

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Cool, I see what you mean. I did shim the oil pump though because its the same timing gear and all that came from the old motor. I defiantly going to check all that Friday night and take pics while Ive got it apart so if it doenst fix the problem I can postem up.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I missed it from an earlier post, but this is the first thing that I've seen about how poorly it was running. Did you check the reluctor wheel runout. I believe that it's susposed to be .020" max. Also, do you know if the reluctor wheel is clocked/registered correctly to the crank.

Steve

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Well let me rephrase that, its hard to start but once running and WOT its very slugish feeling. Maybe its in some kind of limp mode from the SES's or something but it feels nowhere nere as strong as it did with the old motor. I havent checked the reluctor run out, Id have to pull the pan to do so. I did talk with Bryan at LME and he assured me that it was straight when it left that they did check it.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Well Ill be working on it here in the next hour or so. First im going to scan the car to get the codes off. Then Im going to swap the crank sensor first, see it that helped. If not then im going to look over all the wiring/grounds againg. If that still doenst work then Ill pull the front cover check all that, pull the cam to check that then re-install with fingers crossed hopping like hell the problem is fixed.

cam

iTrader: (9)

I figure your running a stock tach but in my case with an autometer tach this was the cure

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=tach+resistor

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried to do a CASE Learn??

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Correct stock tach.

Yeah Ive tried the case learn. Matter of fact I tried it again a sec ago. It will give me a "rev to high or rev to fast" error once it reachs 2500rpm or so. Ive tried prolly 100 times and it just want let me do it.

I pulled the codes, they are P0343 and p0344. Both cam sensor codes. I swapped out the crank sensor for a new one, I pulled the fron cover and took off the timing chain and gear and the only thing I found out of the ordinary was the cam retainer plate had a perfect shiney ring on the outside of it where the timing gear has been rubbing on it. I figured that was the problem but it wasnt. I replaced it with an old one from my old motor and checked to make sure it wasnt rubbing buy turning the engine over then pulling it back apart. It wasnt so we put it back together started it up and same thing. The only thing I can think of that we didnt do was loosen all the rockers before I retightend the timing gear, maybe it they were loose or out the cam would have came frontwards a bit. But I didnt think of that until after I got home. I really dont know where else to check or look. Im at a dead end. Im thinking maybe ditching the double roller and going with the LS2 chain and stock sprockets. I really hate to take all that back apart again though. The oil pump was shimed, I made sure. Anything else?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

The lifters dont grab and hold the cam as hard as you would think. One cam bolt pulled mine forward with a few flicks of the wrist against my dual springs.

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

Oh, well this one was in there tight. I tried putting the water pump bolts in there and pull it, but I couldnt. I have no clue what could be wrond with this thing.

LSGUNSS

iTrader: (41)

I know this is a dumb thing to ask but, did put the plate on the back of the block that keeps the cam from going towards the back of the car? I know if you didn't then it could slide back just far enough to give you lots of trouble.

p.s. I don't know what to call that plate. Cam plate?

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

To be honest with you Im not real sure. There were 2 people helping. None are sure either. Guess Ill check that next weekend. I dont remember taking one off the old motor or putting one on. YOu sure there's a plate that goes there? My car didnt have one, see below:

LSGUNSS

iTrader: (41)

I guess I was thinking of the one on the front...I can't figure this out!!

Z'mnypit

iTrader: (58)

yeah the front one is there. LOL, that makes two of us! Try having to work on it daily

RooRnZ28

iTrader: (14)

this is the exact same thing that happened to me. i'm tellin ya, go with an ls2 chain and your problem will be eliminated. it's what worked for me...

99hugcam

iTrader: (9)

you said you tried swapping out a cam sensor? If so is the sensor getting the correct voltage/ground?