DG Gordon

I put in a comp. custom grind cam 6 months ago with a new set of 918s and used the stock pushrods. At the same time I added Mac headers and duel exhast no cats. The specs on the cam are 222/226-561/569 114ls. the car smoked bad under acceleration and puffed between shifts. It did seem to gain a little hp. with these mods but not as much as I had hoped. With semi aggresive driving the car uses 1 qt. of oil every 100 to 150 miles. The car had 14k miles on it at this time and used no oil at all. After about 1 month I got a set of heads off my friends 2001 Z same casting number as mine. The same thing massive smoking and oil usage. The mechanic thought it was bad valve guides maybe the other heads had bad valve guides also but he told me it wasnt burning any oil before.
On another note at about the same time my rearend started making a bad noise we checked it and found it the housing was warped. We found a used one for a couple hundred and installed it with a new SLP carrier and the gears sound like ****. We set them up again and no better.
On another note I put in a new LS6 clutch and slave cylinder because I thought it was going out (it was still good) now the tranny grinds going in second like the clutch is not disengaging all the way. I did not change the master cylinder. Can anyone help me as my SS in perfect shape inside and out is now a piece of junk, with 15k miles on it. It sets in the garage most of the time till I can get it paid down to trade for a new Cobra. My friend has a 99 Cobra and races it almost every weekend and has since it was new and just put in his second clutch. No motor work done at all except headers cold air and chips. His car doesnt have the hp. mine does but can outrun mine easily due to leaving off the rev limiter on 10" slicks and 4.30 gears. I have been to the track 3 times in mine and have never used more than Nittoes. Help please.

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

about the motor. Stock pushrods are a bad idea. Besides that with all that oil consumption, it sounds like the rings are toast. EXACTLY the same thing happened to me. It sucks, and nobody can answer what caused it. only guesses.

DG Gordon

I have been told that about the rings but I am having a hard time believing the rings went bad imediately after the cam job. I mean the car was smoking right after I drove it out of the shop. As for the pushrods maybe If I change them that might help?

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

I had a hard time beleiving it too, and it ******* sucks!! Car ran awesome before the heads/cam job without smoking. RIGHT after the swap it started smoking. I've ruled out everything else u can think of. Newe shortblock is ready.

DG Gordon

So how much $ are we talking about, and thanks for the help.

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

You are going to need to yank the motor, hone the cylinders, add new rings and spring for new head gaskets and bolts. Maybe ~$300 in parts right there. You will have to spend alot on labor though if you cannot do it yourself, then a little machine work. I got hold of an extra shortblock, put new rings in it, and am going to swap them. Then I'll sell the one coming out.

XtraCajunSS

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a bad PCV system. Was everything hooked back up properly? You are not relieving the crankcase pressure adequately and most likely developing ring flutter... I would check this out before building a new shortblock...

Shane

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by XtraCajunSS:
<strong>Sounds like a bad PCV system. Was everything hooked back up properly? You are not relieving the crankcase pressure adequately and most likely developing ring flutter... I would check this out before building a new shortblock...

Shane</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Like I said. Make sure you check that. That definately is not what happened with mine. Mine shoots loads of smoke when I get on it.

Jay 95WS6

guys try using the truck PCV in the car we've had real good results with it

Jay
www.jayfisherpontiac.com

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I would try the truck pcv, or run a catch can before you do anything drastic. Our stock valvecovers sit so low that stock systems will suck in a lot of oil on decel especially the hose that goes into the TB it's under vacuum.

I run only part of the stock system now.

wolfman jack

go and talk to your local gm dealer there is a bulliten about excessive oil consumption that was corrected by a new pcv valve on 5.3&6.0l trucks but if that same pcv is installed on trucks with 4.8l engines the problem will become even worse it is possible that your cam has created a problem like this for you

Tin Indian

Just some info that was posted here before:
_________________________________________

Truck PCV Valve: P/N 12572717 (may fix the LS1 oil consumption problems)
The PCV tubing from the driver's side runs around the back of the engine and tee's into the tubing from the passenger side. After they tee together one tube runs along the passenger side valve cover just below the coil packs and into the throttle body. 6" before the tubing goes into the throttle body there is a larger diameter fitting. The PVC is lying horizontally inside the large diameter tubing fitting. Note: There is a heat sink wire that runs from the fitting to the block. This is to transfer heat to the PCV and keep it's check valve operational. You have to remove the heat sink wire from the block to pull the fitting off easily.