Still Getting Detonation!!!
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Sunday I replaced the water pump on my '99 T/A. I thought since I had a coolant leak that maybe the engine was just running too hot thus causing detonation and KR. Now that the water pump has been changed out,(very easy to do, btw), I thought, er... was hoping, that the detonation would stop! ...It hasn't!!! Its not as bad, but I could still here some. What in the hell is wrong with my engine! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Brian
Brian
#3
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We need your mods..some things that can help..do you have a home ported maf..are you trying to run hpp tuning..do you have a maft..what plugs are you running..what thermo..I find the stock therm and fan settings too hot for really hot dry weather..even 92 octane may not be enough.You can go to a 160 stat and hpp or fan switch or even try the fan switch without changing your stat.
that helped my friends stock ws6 ta..it had terrible knock retard after driving in traffic for awhile..the slp fan switch helped a lot.
that helped my friends stock ws6 ta..it had terrible knock retard after driving in traffic for awhile..the slp fan switch helped a lot.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MOBE:
[QBWhat in the hell is wrong with my engine!
[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Probably nothing! LS1's have a tendancy to detonate in HOT weather. A 160* themostat and a HPP3 (160* fan settings) cured my summer time WOT around 5,200 rpm detonation. but keep in mind, mine did it with no mods other than a lid! the MAF was stock and I always run 93 octain.
<small>[ May 21, 2002, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: LS1JAY ]</small>
[QBWhat in the hell is wrong with my engine!
[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Probably nothing! LS1's have a tendancy to detonate in HOT weather. A 160* themostat and a HPP3 (160* fan settings) cured my summer time WOT around 5,200 rpm detonation. but keep in mind, mine did it with no mods other than a lid! the MAF was stock and I always run 93 octain.
<small>[ May 21, 2002, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: LS1JAY ]</small>
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My mods are:
FTRA
LID, K&N
160* Powerstat(no programing)
B&M Ripper
Flow Master cat-back
Eibac Pro Kit
BMR STB
BMR SFC
SLP H.O. Hood
17x9.5 front
17x11 rear
all free mods
I am running stock plugs and wires. I plan on changing them when I do my long tubes next month.
Fan switch should be here Thursday.
THANX! ...and let the suggestions begin! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
FTRA
LID, K&N
160* Powerstat(no programing)
B&M Ripper
Flow Master cat-back
Eibac Pro Kit
BMR STB
BMR SFC
SLP H.O. Hood
17x9.5 front
17x11 rear
all free mods
I am running stock plugs and wires. I plan on changing them when I do my long tubes next month.
Fan switch should be here Thursday.
THANX! ...and let the suggestions begin! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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The only way I cleared up my KR was with this PCV mod. http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenm...ML/pcv_mod.htm
I had tried everything with no success. As soon as I did this mod, all the KR was gone. I'm trying to take it a step further now with a crankcase evap pump now. With my ported MAF I see up to 30.5 degrees of timing with no KR.
Easy way to check if this is your problem is to pull off the TB. If you have oil on the back of it, and some in the intake, you have probably found your problem.
By the way, I live in south west Fla. LS1's do NOT detonate due to warmer climates. They just don't like oil injection!
I had tried everything with no success. As soon as I did this mod, all the KR was gone. I'm trying to take it a step further now with a crankcase evap pump now. With my ported MAF I see up to 30.5 degrees of timing with no KR.
Easy way to check if this is your problem is to pull off the TB. If you have oil on the back of it, and some in the intake, you have probably found your problem.
By the way, I live in south west Fla. LS1's do NOT detonate due to warmer climates. They just don't like oil injection!
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Guys, if it is possible that extra oil comming thru the PCV valve is causing the detonation, then couldn't you just replace the PCV vavle more often?
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
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The PCV valve isn't the problem, it's the design of the PCV nubs on the valve covers and filtration or a vacuum pump is needed to solve that.
Also, what is your IAT? Timing? What type of plugs? Gap? When is the last time your decarb'd the engine? Fan Settings? Thermo? Coolant ratio? Distilled Water? Water Wetter?
I just dumped and flushed the DexSludge and went Prestone Green. Dropped my temps 20-30*. Went Water Wetter, 1 Gallon Prestone, the rest Distilled Water. Very Happy.
Also, what is your IAT? Timing? What type of plugs? Gap? When is the last time your decarb'd the engine? Fan Settings? Thermo? Coolant ratio? Distilled Water? Water Wetter?
I just dumped and flushed the DexSludge and went Prestone Green. Dropped my temps 20-30*. Went Water Wetter, 1 Gallon Prestone, the rest Distilled Water. Very Happy.
#9
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You might as well get a maft or ls1 edit now.you will be real rich with those longtubes.!!I was an so are most people.You could try a colder plug if the fan switch don't do it..it probably will..like try a tr6 or rapidfire eight last longer I hear and work well.I don't seem to have too bad oil problems anymore with new pcv valve..forget the part number..its the standard replacement on our cars now I think and run 10/30 synthetic amsoil now..when I swapped of my ls1 intake last year before the new pcv and was running 0/30 amsoil synth the intake was full of oil.tons..no just checked and dry..so maybe all this fancy pcv stuff isn't necessary..just try the new valve and 10/30 sythetic..