Blue Fire

ok gye's here goes's and i dont know if it make's a diff i just talked to the the gye at blackstone and he sed that it make's no diff. that long as you run a syn in the motor as far as redling the Motor he sed in his that a good Syn is better than a normal oil. anyday and that any addttive in the motor the sale's man is blowing smoke up your *** <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> redline in his is not all that but a SYN wech is a good oil bottem line it's just an motor oil he sed there's so much you can do with Motor oil..... as far as trying to fuger what's the best out there weach i dont know if he's right on that one........

so im not takeing up for any motor oil out there i just hear what i hear.....

DG Gordon

I use Royal Purple in all my vehicles (2001 Grand Am, 2000 SS, 98 Suburban, 1990 5.0 mustang) I use all their products gear oil tranny fluid regular 10w/30 and thier racing oil for the 5.0 and SS 20w50.
Good results so far.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Patman:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by cantdrv65:
<strong>The bottom line is that oil analysis is a waste of time and money. You'll never here that from the labs though.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Explain why you think it's a waste? It is very helpful in determining what is going on inside your engine, plus it can help you determine whether or not your choice in oils is good, and whether or not you've gone too far on your intervals (or could go further) Oil analysis is not for everyone, but that doesn't mean it isn't useful.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The only useful test for an oil is an actual wear test. A lab analysis is not going to make your car last any longer especially when most of the opinions expressed on the internet are just that, merely opinions.

Patman

An oil analysis tells you how your engine is wearing though! And it's very useful in extending the engine's life because if you see higher wear metals you can take other measures to lower it (better filtration, change of viscosity, change of oil brand, driving habit change, different oil change intervals, etc.)

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> A lab analysis is not going to make your car last any longer especially when most of the opinions expressed on the internet are just that, merely opinions. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Umm, actually an oil analysis can definitely make your engine last longer because you may have the opportunity to catch a problem before it gets even worse. Case in point, a friend of mine purchased a used Mustang and immediately had an oil analysis done. It came back showing high bearing wear metals. Based on this he was able to make repairs without more serious damage having occured.

Also, I love the "opinions on the Internet" argument. It's kind of a facade to hide behind when one doesn't have good data to make a case. Besides the oil analysis isn't coming from some keyboard warrior operating on opinions, its from a lab that specializes in spectrographic analysis.

Gregersonsalvage

HMM All I can say its royal purple sucks in comparison to mobile 1. I've used mobile for a long time. Then I decided to try RP since it was 50 cents cheaper per bottle. Mobile 1 after 6 weeks of non use I could open the valve cover and see oil still sticking to everything. Royal purple I open the valve cover up and it looks and feels Like I have to prelube everything to start it up again.

383ss

iTrader: (14)

where can you even buy Schaeffers oil???

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

I would start here:

Schaeffers Oil

383ss

iTrader: (14)

I've been there. I'm in the Kansas City area and don't have a minimum order of $250, but I could try and contact them to see where I could get some...

Anybody know a web site or store that carries it???

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

OR you could use Redline <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Patman

You don't need to order $250 worth of Schaeffers in order to get it, it's just that with $250 or more you get free shipping. Even with the shipping costs, Schaeffers oil is a good deal. I can't wait to see the results of this oil in my car. It's going in the crankcase in about a month.

OBSSSD@work

CORRECT SPELLING = GOOD <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I already swithch to Redline and I could care less if it is API certified. There's no way anything else will hold up better based upon what I've read over a long period of time. It is a full synthetic as well. There's a reason race teams running high hp engines at high RPM's use it over the other oils mentioned. My car sees 6700 rpm all the time so I need a good oil.

Also, I use 10W-30 because it is really hot down here..

DiabloSport Products Informant

So you will know, Castrol Synthetic is a Group 3 oil, which means it's NOT a true synthetic. Most store bought brands are Group 3's. If you're going to buy store brand oil then buy Mobil 1 (same price anyways basically). It's Group 4, and is as good as the other Group 4 synthetics (Royal Purple, Amsoil) in protection.

In case you're wondering, Redline and Motul are Group 5 oils. They are made from alcohol (esters). Group 5 oils are hydrolitically instable (they end to produce more water at higher temps). Redline is the only manufacturer that widely uses Group 5 oils for automotive use. Group 4 synthetics are the better choice for automotive use. Redline is not comparable to the Group 4 oils. Redline brags about how Group 5 is used in turbine applications. Automotive use is totally different. I'll argue w/ someone on this till I'm blue in the face.

Also, Amsoil buys their base stocks from Mobil Corporation <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

FWIW, I use Royal Purple 5w-20 in my '02 Lightning.

<small>[ August 16, 2002, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: BfB ]</small>

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you're going to buy store brand oil then buy Mobil 1 (same price anyways basically). It's Group 4, and is as good as the other Group 4 synthetics (Royal Purple, Amsoil) in protection.

In case you're wondering, Redline and Motul are Group 5 oils. They are made from alcohol (esters). Group 5 oils are hydrolitically instable (they end to produce more water at higher temps). Redline is the only manufacturer that widely uses Group 5 oils for automotive use. Group 4 synthetics are the better choice for automotive use. Redline is not comparable to the Group 4 oils. Redline brags about how Group 5 is used in turbine applications. Automotive use is totally different. I'll argue w/ someone on this till I'm blue in the face.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In regard to you stating all group IV's offer the same protection, you are pretty far off. This would be true only if the additive packages were identical. Additives determine performance qualities; base oils determine physical properties (in loose terms). Additive technology plays the greater role in illustrating performance of the finished product. You are correct in stating Group V base oils are not better in automotive classifications (higher does not equal better). And due to significantly poorer additive solubility of Group V base oils they are not ideal for automotive applications- as much as 25% of a fully formulated automotive engine oil is additives/ diluents.

Patman

It is true, the additive package plays a major role in the overall performance of an oil. I'd much rather use a synthetic blend oil like Schaeffers with it's very strong additive package (especially the moly, which is a tremendous antiwear additive) than to have an oil that has a crappy additive pack but a fully synthetic base oil. There is a lot more to an oil than just the base oil. Although when you are looking at what is on the store shelves, and you see Castrol with it's group 3 base, then Mobil 1 with it's full synthetic base, it's hard to understand why people choose Castrol. It's additive package isn't anything special. Mobil 1 on the other hand definitely keeps engines clean, it has a very strong TBN. I've also recently heard that Mobil 1's new 0w40 "European Formula" is an excellent oil! Very shear stable. I can't wait to see oil analysis on this oil.

OBSSSD@work

Maybe you can tell us why Royal Purple isn't holding up like the Redline in the LS1 cars after repeated analysis?

Patman

I don't believe any synthetic oil contains only group 5 in it's base oil. That's because the esters on their own will swell up seals quite a bit. There needs to be a bit of PAOs (group 4) in there to balance it out. The same goes with Mobil 1, it's not entirely group 4, it's got some group 5 as well. PAOs on their own will shrink seals. It's a very exact science. This is why Schaeffers oil works so well. It's a blend of 28% PAO with the rest of the base oil being a group 2+. Then the additive package is blended just right so that it will last for longer drain intervals without it's TBN dropping too fast, and without having a lot of oxidation.

Matt98SS

so what is the best oil analyzed so far? Mobil 1, redline, Royal Purple or Vavl. Syntech?

Gregersonsalvage

Okay My mobile 1 has a little over 5000 on it right now with and 65000 mile ls1 motor on an atx. 3000 of it is cross country driving literally I drove from minnesota to los gatos cali in 30 straight through by myself hours. Oil was clean as new so I figured I'll wait till 5k. My engine gets run very hard. WOT about once daily. Normally when I'm cruising only 2k.

When I drove out to minnesota by the time I got there I had 7k on the oil and it looked like regular oil at 3k. Have you ever seen and ls1 motor get 30mpg. I did. hehe wierd thing is that when I had dirtier oil I got better gas mileage. I think is because of the crankcase fumes are higher when the oil is dirtier. Also I use one of those tornado things I set it as close to the TB as I could. other than that completly stock.

LS1PWR02SS

dude go with mobil1 5w30 full synthetic and you shouldnt have any problems <img border="0" alt="[Camaro]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />