Valve Tapping
08-19-2002, 06:53 PM
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Valve Tapping I think I finally figured out what the source of my KR is. I hear valve tapping coming from #3 cylinder. Could this be a stuck valve lifter, or something else? What needs to be done to correct this problem? Advice needed!
08-19-2002, 09:19 PM
#2
Re: Valve Tapping I'm just going to assume something here.
Valve Tapping = Annoying ticking noise, somewhere around the #3 cylinder
Here is the laundry list
1) Noisy Injector: To test, unplug the injector while the car is idling. If the sound goes away...
2) Air Injection Check Valve: This isn't the #3 cylinder, but one of the check valves for the air system, will be right above it. You can switch sides on the air valves, and see if the sound moves.
3) Exhaust Leak: Just like it says, you have an exhaust leak. Remove your manifold, and check for black streaks from the exhaust port out to the perimeter of the gasket.
4) Loose Ignition Wire: If your ignition wire is loose, it may be sparking to the block or the head. You can either unplug the sparkplug while the engine is idling (it won't like this), and if the ticking stops. Or if you don't like misfireing your car, put it in a garage, turn off all of the lights and lift the hood (the car is running of coarse). If it is arcing, you will be able to see it in the dark.
And now the ugly stuff....
5) Bad valve guide: Your valve seals are toast. You will be burning oil (especially a puff of smoke on start-up).
6) Lifter is Collapsed: This is a *very* clacky sound. It is usually better heard in the wheel well though, and tends to happen after cam installs. Stock lifters rarely go bad on a stock engine.
7) Lifter Preload is wrong: Gremlins, little brothers, shitty mechanic, for whatever reason, your lifter preload is no longer correct. The tolerences of your valvetrain / rocker may have changed, and your rockers should be re-torqued.
8) Loose Rocker Arm: This will cause #5 and should be treated as such. Just torque the baby down to 22 ft-lb.
9) Brocken Rocker Arm: The needle bearings in your rocker arm have puked out into your engine. Drain your oil. If you see a collection of small metal pins on the oil drain plug, then you need a new rocker.
10) Broken Valve Spring: Visually inspect the spring. If you can't see anything, then take your car to a machinest. He/she ( <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> ) can compress each spring to test for proper tension, or irregularities between springs. (Note: Not every machinist will do this, you need the one with the 10 street/strip cars out front)
11) Bent Pushrod: Have you missed a gear recently? The stock pushrods bend like Al Gore under pressure when mechanically over revved, or beaten on HARD.
12) You've sucked in a gerbal: Occasionally, these little buggers will get dragged in with the high velocity air entering the engine. Trapped in the intake port, they will tap gerbal SOS codes from inside until they are freed by their brothren.
I can't think of anything else right now.
Good Luck
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Valve Tapping = Annoying ticking noise, somewhere around the #3 cylinder
Here is the laundry list
1) Noisy Injector: To test, unplug the injector while the car is idling. If the sound goes away...
2) Air Injection Check Valve: This isn't the #3 cylinder, but one of the check valves for the air system, will be right above it. You can switch sides on the air valves, and see if the sound moves.
3) Exhaust Leak: Just like it says, you have an exhaust leak. Remove your manifold, and check for black streaks from the exhaust port out to the perimeter of the gasket.
4) Loose Ignition Wire: If your ignition wire is loose, it may be sparking to the block or the head. You can either unplug the sparkplug while the engine is idling (it won't like this), and if the ticking stops. Or if you don't like misfireing your car, put it in a garage, turn off all of the lights and lift the hood (the car is running of coarse). If it is arcing, you will be able to see it in the dark.
And now the ugly stuff....
5) Bad valve guide: Your valve seals are toast. You will be burning oil (especially a puff of smoke on start-up).
6) Lifter is Collapsed: This is a *very* clacky sound. It is usually better heard in the wheel well though, and tends to happen after cam installs. Stock lifters rarely go bad on a stock engine.
7) Lifter Preload is wrong: Gremlins, little brothers, shitty mechanic, for whatever reason, your lifter preload is no longer correct. The tolerences of your valvetrain / rocker may have changed, and your rockers should be re-torqued.
8) Loose Rocker Arm: This will cause #5 and should be treated as such. Just torque the baby down to 22 ft-lb.
9) Brocken Rocker Arm: The needle bearings in your rocker arm have puked out into your engine. Drain your oil. If you see a collection of small metal pins on the oil drain plug, then you need a new rocker.
10) Broken Valve Spring: Visually inspect the spring. If you can't see anything, then take your car to a machinest. He/she ( <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> ) can compress each spring to test for proper tension, or irregularities between springs. (Note: Not every machinist will do this, you need the one with the 10 street/strip cars out front)
11) Bent Pushrod: Have you missed a gear recently? The stock pushrods bend like Al Gore under pressure when mechanically over revved, or beaten on HARD.
12) You've sucked in a gerbal: Occasionally, these little buggers will get dragged in with the high velocity air entering the engine. Trapped in the intake port, they will tap gerbal SOS codes from inside until they are freed by their brothren.
I can't think of anything else right now.
Good Luck
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08-20-2002, 01:00 PM
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Re: Valve Tapping I guess if i'm gonna have to get lifters, or anything like that replaced, I might as well get a cam. Thanks for all the info NoGo!
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