Head swap questions...
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Head swap questions... So here it goes:
(1) when cleaning the bolt holes is vaccuming, air compressing and a nylon brush enough or do I really need to chase the threads (with I assume an unstreched head bolt?)
(2) what type of spark plugs would you run (224/224 lsa 114) with AFR 205cc heads milled .024" flat
(3) when tightening down rocker arms after new lifter install should I add preload by tightening the 3/4 turn past 22ft/lbs?
Thanks a bunch in advance any help is appreciated
(1) when cleaning the bolt holes is vaccuming, air compressing and a nylon brush enough or do I really need to chase the threads (with I assume an unstreched head bolt?)
(2) what type of spark plugs would you run (224/224 lsa 114) with AFR 205cc heads milled .024" flat
(3) when tightening down rocker arms after new lifter install should I add preload by tightening the 3/4 turn past 22ft/lbs?
Thanks a bunch in advance any help is appreciated
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alright anymore answers/what is the arp thread chaser part # (or should i just use a new head bolt with no thread locker?), I already set one head down to 22ftlbs should I undo it and clean out those as well? (and this will mean ordering new bolts and a new gasket [its a GM MLS]?)
Last edited by dnm12; Mar 4, 2007 at 06:02 PM.
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what I did was grind down one straight line on old bolt and used it as a thread chaser. cleaned it with paper towel spunned and inserted all the way. then I would use old bolt thread chaser and screw in by hand till it bottomed out, screw it out and check for evidence of grime/oil/coolant. if dirty keep cleaning it. once cleaned I made sure thread chaser could be screw'd all the way in by hand ( no tools what so ever) then all the way out by hand.
I would use vacuum on water pump passage to minimize coolant in your piston when heads come off.
tr55 plugs.
follow rocker installation instructions.
fuerzaws6
I would use vacuum on water pump passage to minimize coolant in your piston when heads come off.
tr55 plugs.
follow rocker installation instructions.
fuerzaws6
Better safe than sorry. The bolt holes need to be very clean and dry. Not only to get proper torque but you con't want to crack your block. Don't use any sealer on the head bolts. The ARP thread chaser is available through Jegs. I think its 11mm x 2.0, and its not cheap. Worth the money in my opinion. It works extremely well. The cylinder head threads and main bearing caps use what they call a rolled thread. Thats why its important not to use a tap or anthing that will alter the threads.
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so do I need a new head gasket? and new bolt kit?
11mm x 2.oo Cleaning Tap is this correct?
part # 912-0011 (i hope so cause I just ordered it)
11mm x 2.oo Cleaning Tap is this correct?
part # 912-0011 (i hope so cause I just ordered it)
Last edited by dnm12; Mar 4, 2007 at 08:42 PM.
Originally Posted by dnm12
so do I need a new head gasket? and new bolt kit?
11mm x 2.oo Cleaning Tap is this correct?
part # 912-0011 (i hope so cause I just ordered it)
11mm x 2.oo Cleaning Tap is this correct?
part # 912-0011 (i hope so cause I just ordered it)
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I really don't see the need to buy a "specialty tool" ($$$) for this. The standard appropriatedly sized tap will do just fine. All you're doing is cleaning the threads so that the measure of friction you're getting while torquing heads is not erred by having dirty threads.
Compressed air/vacuum take your pick. The same compressor that blew the air out of the bolt holes can be used to blow the coolant out of the block if any track amounts do get in a cylinder (which is NOT a concern when you just blew 95 psi air into the holes).
Dry the holes so they don't have standing water in them and run a tap through them and you'll be good to go.
I suggest a TR6 plug- one heat range cooler as you just upped compression and power output.
Ben T.
Compressed air/vacuum take your pick. The same compressor that blew the air out of the bolt holes can be used to blow the coolant out of the block if any track amounts do get in a cylinder (which is NOT a concern when you just blew 95 psi air into the holes).
Dry the holes so they don't have standing water in them and run a tap through them and you'll be good to go.
I suggest a TR6 plug- one heat range cooler as you just upped compression and power output.
Ben T.
As others have stated, I simply used a old, ground down head bolt and paper towels to clean out the threads. Took a couple passes to get them good to go, but so far so good.
I run TR55's btw...
I run TR55's btw...
Originally Posted by Studytime
I really don't see the need to buy a "specialty tool" ($$$) for this. The standard appropriatedly sized tap will do just fine. All you're doing is cleaning the threads so that the measure of friction you're getting while torquing heads is not erred by having dirty threads.
Compressed air/vacuum take your pick. The same compressor that blew the air out of the bolt holes can be used to blow the coolant out of the block if any track amounts do get in a cylinder (which is NOT a concern when you just blew 95 psi air into the holes).
Dry the holes so they don't have standing water in them and run a tap through them and you'll be good to go.
I suggest a TR6 plug- one heat range cooler as you just upped compression and power output.
Ben T.
Compressed air/vacuum take your pick. The same compressor that blew the air out of the bolt holes can be used to blow the coolant out of the block if any track amounts do get in a cylinder (which is NOT a concern when you just blew 95 psi air into the holes).
Dry the holes so they don't have standing water in them and run a tap through them and you'll be good to go.
I suggest a TR6 plug- one heat range cooler as you just upped compression and power output.
Ben T.
As I said, the mains and the head bolt threads are a rolled thread. A regular tap will weaken the threads.
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So the best tool I have ever used in terms of specialty tools fooled by the more tool for this motor. I applaud ARP for their well designed product!
And finally in action
But also a little more input on spark plugs once again AFR 205cc heads flat milled .024" with cam in sig, stock 98 block...I already have a brand new set of TR55 should I just get the TR6 as well and let the dynotuner figure it out?
And finally in action
But also a little more input on spark plugs once again AFR 205cc heads flat milled .024" with cam in sig, stock 98 block...I already have a brand new set of TR55 should I just get the TR6 as well and let the dynotuner figure it out?
Thread Starter
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From: Sacramento, CA
the part is orderable from summit or ARP thats why I took a picture of the part # for ya guys, also the ARP tool is better then a tap because the head threads are rolled and a tap is not for rolled threads and in essence bends them a little (from what I understand)
I don't understand how it can really be that much different than a conventional tap.
A regular tap doesn't remove a significant amount of metal, it just cleans (chases) the threads. How can this be different?
Are there any tap-die experts out there that can educate us on this?
Ben T.
A regular tap doesn't remove a significant amount of metal, it just cleans (chases) the threads. How can this be different?
Are there any tap-die experts out there that can educate us on this?
Ben T.