Crank bolt?
03-05-2007, 11:11 PM
#21
Originally Posted by slt200mph
He is talking aboiut installing the crank pulley. You can pull the threads out of the end of the crank by trying to pull in on in the beginning of the pully install. The stock length bolt does not grab enough threads in the crank. If you use a longer than stock length bolt to start to pull the pully on you will not ruin the thread in your crank. After you get it on as far as it will go using the longer than stock bolt you take out the longer bolt and use your old stock bolt to get the pully the rest of the way on. Torque it to 235 ft. lbs. and then take out the old stock bolt and then use the new stock bolt to torque it to 37 lbs. Then get your breaker bar and a turn it another 140 degrees. I use a 24 inch breaker bar with a pipe over the end of it for better leverage. The stock bolt is a touque to yield bplt and should not be reused.
03-06-2007, 05:20 AM
#22
You have the procedure completely confused and are heading for trouble. You need to pull on the balancer and seat it using a tool like I made above. Once seated, the old bolt is installed and tightened to 240 lb-ft. Then remove the old bolt and measure the crank snout depth to ensure it is correct. Once you measure that, you install the new bolt and tighten to the prescribed torque and then you rotate the prescribed number of degrees. I won't put in the numbers because I am doing this from memory and I don't want to give you incorrect values.
The use of the old bolt is to ensure you have bottomed the damper hub against the lower timing chain sprocket. The measurement is to confirm this and ensure everything is within tolerance. The final torque is to ensure the new bolt is firmly seated and the rotation is the bolt stretch or preload.
Don't tighten the longer bolt to 240 lb-ft, you will bottom it in the crank and it may not come out. Prior failures of the bolts is due primarily to not following the correct procedure and damaging the threads. Do a search, there are a lot of guys who have messed this up, don't be one of them
The use of the old bolt is to ensure you have bottomed the damper hub against the lower timing chain sprocket. The measurement is to confirm this and ensure everything is within tolerance. The final torque is to ensure the new bolt is firmly seated and the rotation is the bolt stretch or preload.
Don't tighten the longer bolt to 240 lb-ft, you will bottom it in the crank and it may not come out. Prior failures of the bolts is due primarily to not following the correct procedure and damaging the threads. Do a search, there are a lot of guys who have messed this up, don't be one of them
03-06-2007, 09:53 AM
#24
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Racinbabycakes
You NEVER reuse the stock bolt!!!!! If worse comes to worse and you can't get the ARP just go to the dealership and get a stock one. But don't ever reuse the stock one!
03-06-2007, 09:56 AM
#26
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slt200mph
The stock length bolt does not grab enough threads in the crank.
Originally Posted by slt200mph
If you use a longer than stock length bolt to start to pull the pully on you will not ruin the thread in your crank.
03-06-2007, 10:22 AM
#27
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
Nonsense. I've used the stock bolt to remove the crank pully, install an underdrive pully, remove and underdrive pully and reinstall the underdrive pulley with no issues. I am definitely done with this thread.
You also won't ruin it with a stock if you take your time and follow the directions I posted.
You also won't ruin it with a stock if you take your time and follow the directions I posted.
I am not just sitting around making up stuff to post in this thread..as I said before you rolled the dice and got lucky..sooner or later you will pull the threads out of the end of the crank using the stock length bolt to start pulling the crank pully back on .. this is documented in many other threads and I have seen people do it and then be very sorry they didn't use a longer bolt to get the pully started..no flame intended or argument happening here sir ... just a statment of facts.. have a good day ..
03-06-2007, 10:25 AM
#28
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slt200mph
..no flame intended or argument happening here sir ... just a statment of facts.. have a good day ..
You have a good one too.
03-06-2007, 12:27 PM
#30
Originally Posted by vettenuts
M16 X 2.0
And -=Modified=- you are correct, you physically can re-use a stock bolt. There is nothing to stop you from it. However, these bolts are torque-to-yield bolts... That is that they are designed to be tightened past the physical yielding point of the material that they are made of. Unless you are an engineer, you are probably not familiar with what I am saying. But whether you are familiar with the terminology or not, the FACT is that the material properties of a TTY bolt have been altered once torqued down to spec once! (ie: it is weaker and prone to breaking if re-used).
03-06-2007, 01:26 PM
#31
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ruskin, FL
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Thanks
And -=Modified=- you are correct, you physically can re-use a stock bolt. There is nothing to stop you from it. However, these bolts are torque-to-yield bolts... That is that they are designed to be tightened past the physical yielding point of the material that they are made of. Unless you are an engineer, you are probably not familiar with what I am saying. But whether you are familiar with the terminology or not, the FACT is that the material properties of a TTY bolt have been altered once torqued down to spec once! (ie: it is weaker and prone to breaking if re-used).
And -=Modified=- you are correct, you physically can re-use a stock bolt. There is nothing to stop you from it. However, these bolts are torque-to-yield bolts... That is that they are designed to be tightened past the physical yielding point of the material that they are made of. Unless you are an engineer, you are probably not familiar with what I am saying. But whether you are familiar with the terminology or not, the FACT is that the material properties of a TTY bolt have been altered once torqued down to spec once! (ie: it is weaker and prone to breaking if re-used).
Something like head bolts I would, did and will change time and time again.
A crank bolt..eh.
03-06-2007, 01:36 PM
#32
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Watertown, NY
Posts: 8,797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heres how i just did my pulley.1. Placed pulley on snout and tapped it with a hammer until i could grab threads with the old stock length bolt.
2. Torqued old bolt to 240lbs-ft while pushing pulley on.
3. Took old bolt out.
4. Installed new bolt to 37lbs-ft
5. Turned the bolt another 1/3 or 2/3 of a turn (sorry i forgot the exact amount, its whatever the instructions from March said)
This is how the instructions said to do it.
03-06-2007, 01:40 PM
#34
Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
Thanks, and I do understand what TTY is.
Something like head bolts I would, did and will change time and time again.
A crank bolt..eh.
Something like head bolts I would, did and will change time and time again.
A crank bolt..eh.
03-06-2007, 02:55 PM
#36
Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Having actually designed and spec out bolts myself for airplanes, I have an appreciation to what all goes into the process. It is a very tedious and iterative thing to do. Such a negligent gesture on your part would get you fired or worse, people killed if you were a professional aircraft mechanic. But you are not, and it is not a life threatening event if your crank pulley comes loose (well, hopefully not!) You can do whatever you want, it is your car. However, you should not publicly be telling people to do it the wrong way and possibly cause someone else a catastrophe because of your ignorance.
Well said sir..
03-06-2007, 03:03 PM
#38
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by marv
Start the pulley with the above install tool or a longer bolt from Napa...
Once you set the pulley on there with the old stock bolt (to 240 lb-ft), then you remove it and install the NEW stock style, TTY bolt. Torque it to 34 lb-ft and then stretch it...
I think that's the way it goes...
Once you set the pulley on there with the old stock bolt (to 240 lb-ft), then you remove it and install the NEW stock style, TTY bolt. Torque it to 34 lb-ft and then stretch it...
I think that's the way it goes...
03-06-2007, 03:08 PM
#39
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by vettenuts
You have the procedure completely confused and are heading for trouble.
03-06-2007, 03:08 PM
#40
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by vettenuts
Not sure what you are asking, but this is one area you can get in big trouble fast. Don't use a bolt at all to push on the new damper. You need to make an installer.
