Crank bolt?
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Originally Posted by tuffass
Okay so are you saying that you'll have the stock bolt (thats in there now) a new long bolt and a new stock bolt? This is the first time I've heard of 3 diff bolts...
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Launching!
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by slt200mph
I am not just sitting around making up stuff to post in this thread..as I said before you rolled the dice and got lucky..sooner or later you will pull the threads out of the end of the crank using the stock length bolt to start pulling the crank pully back on .. this is documented in many other threads and I have seen people do it and then be very sorry they didn't use a longer bolt to get the pully started..no flame intended or argument happening here sir ... just a statment of facts.. have a good day .. 
Originally Posted by tuffass
N ow I am definately using a longer bolt to pull it on so that i dont strip the threads. I'm just not so sure about buying a new stock bolt.
Originally Posted by tuffass
N ow I am definately using a longer bolt to pull it on so that i dont strip the threads. I'm just not so sure about buying a new stock bolt.
A new crank bolt is cheeper than a six pack..I work @ a chevy dealer and my cost is $2.77 .... and well worth it at retail of about $5 bucks .. unless you think having a crank pully come loose at 1 o'clock in the morning or at some other inopportune time is a good thing..once you spin a crank pully you will have to buy a new pully plus a new bolt too..
.. these are torque to yield bolts sir meaning they are used up after you use them once..ChevyChad explaned it in a post above.. Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by ChevyChad
The install "tool" (stud or longer bolt- take your choice) is designed to get the pulley started on the crank without stripping the threads in the snout- enough so that you can get the old bolt threaded on enough to be safe not to strip threads. The old bolt is then used to press or "seat" the crank all the way down. Then the new bolt is to keep it on
After reading through more post's, I now understand its because the stock bolt has been previously "stretched"
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Launching!
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by Griswold
You realize you can still strip the threads with a longer bolt right? I did it myself. Luckily I realized it before it was too late and was able to clean out the threads. Think about it this way. If you have a piece of threaded rod, it is using EVERY thread available in the crank to seat the pulley. Even with a longer bolt, you are taking a chance of ripping the outermost threads out. I know this from experience. I have taken the balancer off my car at least half a dozen times and will never use anything but threaded rod and washers.
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Launching!
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by Griswold
You realize you can still strip the threads with a longer bolt right? I did it myself. Luckily I realized it before it was too late and was able to clean out the threads. Think about it this way. If you have a piece of threaded rod, it is using EVERY thread available in the crank to seat the pulley. Even with a longer bolt, you are taking a chance of ripping the outermost threads out. I know this from experience. I have taken the balancer off my car at least half a dozen times and will never use anything but threaded rod and washers.
I have a threaded rod tool that I made that I use now but I did use a longer bolt before and have never had any issues with either one..hey both tools will do the job without hurting the crank .. I think we have beaten this horse to death for sure by now.. 
Last edited by slt200mph; Mar 6, 2007 at 04:52 PM.
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Launching!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 290
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From: Austin
Originally Posted by slt200mph
I have a threaded rod tool that I made that I use now but I did use a longer bolt in the before and have never had any issues with either one..hey both tools will do the job without hurting the crank .. I think we have beaten this horse to death for sure by now..
