Crank bolt?
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I'm doing my cam swap this weekend and had planned on using the longer crank bolt from arp but it's on back order from TSP (where I can get it for free) for another couple of weeks.
Can I just go to the local bolt company "Austin Bolt company" and see if they have a longer bolt I can use? I have the specs but wanted to know if this will suffice. Doesnt this bolt have a slot for a 1/2" drive? So it's like a socket instead of a regular bolt?
Can I just go to the local bolt company "Austin Bolt company" and see if they have a longer bolt I can use? I have the specs but wanted to know if this will suffice. Doesnt this bolt have a slot for a 1/2" drive? So it's like a socket instead of a regular bolt?
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He is talking aboiut installing the crank pulley. You can pull the threads out of the end of the crank by trying to pull in on in the beginning of the pully install. The stock length bolt does not grab enough threads in the crank. If you use a longer than stock length bolt to start to pull the pully on you will not ruin the thread in your crank. After you get it on as far as it will go using the longer than stock bolt you take out the longer bolt and use your old stock bolt to get the pully the rest of the way on. Torque it to 235 ft. lbs. and then take out the old stock bolt and then use the new stock bolt to torque it to 37 lbs. Then get your breaker bar and a turn it another 140 degrees. I use a 24 inch breaker bar with a pipe over the end of it for better leverage. The stock bolt is a touque to yield bplt and should not be reused.
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The stock bolt is fine to pull the crank bolt. You just have to do 1-2 turns at a time on the bolt while you are pulling the crank pulley and keep readjusting. It is a pain in the *** but works. I put a bolt and nut in the middle of the 24mm socket and drilled a small pilot hole on the bolt head so teh gear puller wouldn't move and stay centered on the bolt. Then put the 24mm socket on the crank bolt and started the process. Worked like a charm.
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Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
I used the stock bolt and impact wrench to put un the underdrive pulley (asp) with no issues.
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Originally Posted by rbrcka
You should buy a lotto ticket, you got luck on your side. I've read several threads on here where people ended up with a broken bolt stuck in the crank snout.
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Yeah i wouldnt recommend using the stock bolt either, you can go from having a good day, to a horrible day in just seconds using the stock-length bolt. I bought the tool from 618Hawk, and it worked great. Made pressing the pulley back on easy as cake.
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I made an installer like vettenuts posted, worked great on my slp pulley. Cost me about 10 bux cdn to make.Last thing id wanna do is be almost finished my install, then pull threads out of the crank.
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Just go to NAPA or a similarly capable parts house.
Napa had the exact same bolt, just a bit longer...which is what I used.
With that and a series of washers, it worked like a champ.
Napa had the exact same bolt, just a bit longer...which is what I used.
With that and a series of washers, it worked like a champ.
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I planned on an installation tool, etc, but after warming up the dampener in an oven to about 200 degrees, it nearly slid right on. Only did some very gentle tapping with a hammer and wood block to seat it completely.
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Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
The stock bolt is fine to pull the crank bolt. You just have to do 1-2 turns at a time on the bolt while you are pulling the crank pulley and keep readjusting. It is a pain in the *** but works. I put a bolt and nut in the middle of the 24mm socket and drilled a small pilot hole on the bolt head so teh gear puller wouldn't move and stay centered on the bolt. Then put the 24mm socket on the crank bolt and started the process. Worked like a charm.
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Originally Posted by Blk97WS6
Yeah i wouldnt recommend using the stock bolt either, you can go from having a good day, to a horrible day in just seconds using the stock-length bolt. I bought the tool from 618Hawk, and it worked great. Made pressing the pulley back on easy as cake.
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Originally Posted by cav101
Last thing id wanna do is be almost finished my install, then pull threads out of the crank.
I might be using this idea. havnt heard of it before today.
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So the howto guide says to re-use the stock bolt after you torque the longer bolt to 240. says remove longer bolt and then re-use the stock bolt. Torque to 34 lbs and stretch it at least 100 degrees.
So you do actually use the stock bolt once you get the pulley all the way on, Right?
So you do actually use the stock bolt once you get the pulley all the way on, Right?
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Originally Posted by -=Modified=-
The stock bolt is fine to pull the crank bolt. You just have to do 1-2 turns at a time on the bolt while you are pulling the crank pulley and keep readjusting. It is a pain in the *** but works. I put a bolt and nut in the middle of the 24mm socket and drilled a small pilot hole on the bolt head so teh gear puller wouldn't move and stay centered on the bolt. Then put the 24mm socket on the crank bolt and started the process. Worked like a charm.
You NEVER reuse the stock bolt!!!!! If worse comes to worse and you can't get the ARP just go to the dealership and get a stock one. But don't ever reuse the stock one!
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Originally Posted by tuffass
You bought that thing? Why not just make one yourself?
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Originally Posted by tuffass
So the howto guide says to re-use the stock bolt after you torque the longer bolt to 240. says remove longer bolt and then re-use the stock bolt. Torque to 34 lbs and stretch it at least 100 degrees.
So you do actually use the stock bolt once you get the pulley all the way on, Right?
So you do actually use the stock bolt once you get the pulley all the way on, Right?
Once you set the pulley on there with the old stock bolt (to 240 lb-ft), then you remove it and install the NEW stock style, TTY bolt. Torque it to 34 lb-ft and then stretch it...
I think that's the way it goes...
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