The difinitive Stroker VS All-Bore VS Super-Stroker VS Blower thread!!!
Why is an all-bore 382 better than a 383 stroker?(in a given application)
What about a nice 427...how is it compared to a 408 superstroker??(again, in a given application)
Display all this gearhead knowledge for all to enjoy!!!!! <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ August 28, 2002, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: MDL-01C5 ]</small>
The large bore to unshroud the larger valves of the S3 heads. Stock crank to keep the cost/piston side loading down, and to keep a respectable rod ratio. Set compression around 9.0 or 9.5, and BRING THE BOOST!!!
You could get away with a relatively mild cam, and that means that it'd be pretty drivable/tractable. Get into the boost, however, and it'd be a BEAST.
But that's just my preference, and that's what I am into... an easily drivable car around town that positively screams on the big end.
Edit: even better would be a 4.25" bore in a race case... big bores ROCK!!
<small>[ August 28, 2002, 04:13 PM: Message edited by: BurnOut ]</small>
-Tony[/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Exactly, my friend--which is why purpose of this thread is not to say "x" is better than "y", but showcase which route satisfies which goal--and why...
I know all the above can give ridiculously high #'s, I'd just like to see how each is different, what the characteristics are for the given type, and what might sway a person from one type setup to another.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
"Better" is a relative term and everyone has different goals in mind.
-Tony
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Pros: Cheaper to build. Valves unshrouded so heads flow better, giving potential to make more power than stroker in NA form.
Cons: Potential problems with leaking sleeves. Limitation on reliable, high HP-levels due to stock crank (650? rwhp)
Stroker 382
Pros: "bulletproof" bottom end with all forged rotating assembly. Stock block is less prone to have issues like sleeved blocks might have. Can potentially make a ton of power with a power adder, will be limited by head gasket sealing instead of bottom end limits.
Cons: $2300+ for a crank! Heads flow less due to smaller chambers. Undersquare engine design (3.90" bore, 4.00" stroke) is not a popular design format according to most engine builders. Oversquare (more bore than stroke) or Square (same bore/stroke) are preferred.
Engines 400ci+ in size are going to vary on who ported the heads (most important part) and if they are built with specific goals in mind. A 408ci setup is typically a 6.0L Iron block with a 4.00" stroke, and those are probably the best setups available right now (except for using the C5R $6600 block) for going with HUGE shots of nitrous or high psi boost. Iron blocks are simply stronger than aluminum, but weigh 100 lbs more than the aluminum one.
As with any BIG motor, cubes can be King, but our stock intakes are getting pretty damn restrictive in the 500+ rwhp range when naturally aspirated. You could have a well built 427ci perform the same as a choked 454ci setup because of this.
The biggest motors use sleeved aluminum blocks (like mine), but these are not the best choice for large doses (over 200 rwhp) of nitrous or high boost. Sleeves are thinner, closer together, less area between them for gasket area, and structurally the inserted sleeves are not as strong as factory cast-in sleeves.
-Tony
That's exactly the type of info I'm looking to learn...thank you!!
383ss--I agree with you that there's a lot of discussion here about this stuff...my intention was only to (hopefully) encompass much of it in this one thread, instead of only being available scattered throughout the board... <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />



