I have done some thinking and I want a car that I can enjoy. I am live like 75 miles from HRP and to go there to break something would truly suck. So I figured I would build something that I can play with on the highway. Something that can turn some serious rpms and add a turbo to the mix.

I figure solid roller would be the way to go, but I was curious about displacement though. Would a person want a big displacement engine for what I want to do?

I figure maybe a shorter stroke could seriously help in the top-end, however it would take away from the low-end power also. But wouldn't a turbo add some help to the low-end?

I thought of this combo earlier today and want some opinions. I want to get a 6.0L block and bore it .030" over, giving me a 4.030" bore. I would then get some aluminum 6.0L heads and clean them up a bit, more emphasis on the exhaust side. I figure since the turbo is going to forcing air in there the heads don't need that much work except on the exhaust side. The stroke I was figuring about 3.375". That should put me back to around the same displacement as a stock LS1. I figured the compression would need to be around 8.5:1 to 9:1.

The tranny was an automatic, but that is going to be substituted for a 6 speed.

Does any of this sound like a decent plan or should I just stick to a big cubed engine.

I would appreciate some input. However, remember that the car will, more then likely, never see any track time, but highway runs.

Carlos

 

not to long ago chevy came out with a concept car 327 i beleive, put a 4.8 litre crank in a 5.7 litre block, that thing will rev to the mooooooooooooooooon!!!!!!

 

Why do you want to rev it high, any particualr reason?
personaly i would take the 6.0 block , bore it out a little use a 4" crank (now have around 404ci)
true you might not be able to rev it to 8k, but maybe 65k with good springs and pushrods. youll now be making more power down low so you dont have to wait a long time to make power, which will make it faster.
and the turbo will not give it power down low as it might take up to 3k to get it to spool, so a big engine will help on that.

most people think HP is HP, but theHP/torque curve is more important.

i sall a 900hp supras dyno sheet, while most people were in awe, i laphed at it. sure 900rwhp wow, but it didnt make more then 200 till 4000 rpms. with that much lag time no wonder why they can only run 12's.
big power down low till a descent redline is the way to go.

 

Depends upon what your track goals are, but I'd just build an all bore solid roller using Stage 3 heads, the stock crank size, (or may maybe slightly offset for a few extra cubes) and drop some 433s or 456 gears in. With a little weight savings (e.g. k-member, !sway bar) You'll run mid 10s in the high 120s mph and not have the frequent headaches of FI, have a very streetable car, and save a lot of cash.

 

Sounds like this guy wants to go turbo. Turbos are hard to tune, however with good tune, the hp gained from a turbo will be the easiest on you motor. I recommend staying with the turbo idea because it sounds like you want to build a street car. If you were building a track car it would be a huge mistake to switch from auto to 6-speed in a turbo car. You want that cool BOV sound, don't you? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I'm going stroker because I don't want to pay 3 to 5 $ per gallon for race gas. I'm going to try to reach my hp goals on pump gas.

and you have to build up a drivetrain that can handle high reving.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong>Depends upon what your track goals are.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No track goals. He mainly wants something to run with the modded supras and Vipers that run around houston on the highway and beltway.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by smokinHawk:
<strong>Why do you want to rev it high, any particualr reason?
personaly i would take the 6.0 block , bore it out a little use a 4" crank (now have around 404ci)
true you might not be able to rev it to 8k, but maybe 65k with good springs and pushrods. youll now be making more power down low so you dont have to wait a long time to make power, which will make it faster.
and the turbo will not give it power down low as it might take up to 3k to get it to spool, so a big engine will help on that.

most people think HP is HP, but theHP/torque curve is more important.

i sall a 900hp supras dyno sheet, while most people were in awe, i laphed at it. sure 900rwhp wow, but it didnt make more then 200 till 4000 rpms. with that much lag time no wonder why they can only run 12's.
big power down low till a descent redline is the way to go.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The car will not go to a track that is the reason for switching from an automatic to a 6 speed. I want something I can enjoy driving around town and adding some creature comforts, as in a nice A/V set-up and some exterior cosmetics.

I also understand the comment about the horsepower/torque curve, but that is the reason why I want to build the car this way. I want it to perform sort of like a Supra. Nice and quiet around town, but on the highway, open it up and do some high mph blasts...

Carlos

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Ragtop 99:
<strong>Depends upon what your track goals are, but I'd just build an all bore solid roller using Stage 3 heads, the stock crank size, (or may maybe slightly offset for a few extra cubes) and drop some 433s or 456 gears in. With a little weight savings (e.g. k-member, !sway bar) You'll run mid 10s in the high 120s mph and not have the frequent headaches of FI, have a very streetable car, and save a lot of cash.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Don't have track goals. Just highway runs...

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AlienDroid:
<strong>Sounds like this guy wants to go turbo. Turbos are hard to tune, however with good tune, the hp gained from a turbo will be the easiest on you motor. I recommend staying with the turbo idea because it sounds like you want to build a street car. If you were building a track car it would be a huge mistake to switch from auto to 6-speed in a turbo car. You want that cool BOV sound, don't you? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I'm going stroker because I don't want to pay 3 to 5 $ per gallon for race gas. I'm going to try to reach my hp goals on pump gas.

and you have to build up a drivetrain that can handle high reving.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I was already planning to upgrade the drivetrain as in beefing up the 6 speed with some better internals and whatever clutch seems to be working for folks at that particular time.

Carlos

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Chris ARE 360:
<strong>I would bore the iron block .050 over (if sonic testing is ok) and run an offset 3.72 stroke stock crank for 383ci. Stud the block and throw on a great set of S3 heads, shaft mounted rockers and lightweight/strong valvetrain and the turbo on top of it. (Probably a single turbo like Rob Raymers kit)
That would kick ***, run strong numbers and be dead reliable with the right tune.
Cheers,
Chris</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Was already considering getting ahold of Rob Raymer when that phase was in need of starting.

Carlos

 

I would bore the iron block .050 over (if sonic testing is ok) and run an offset 3.72 stroke stock crank for 383ci. Stud the block and throw on a great set of S3 heads, shaft mounted rockers and lightweight/strong valvetrain and the turbo on top of it. (Probably a single turbo like Rob Raymers kit)
That would kick ***, run strong numbers and be dead reliable with the right tune.
Cheers,
Chris

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by LJ_Z28:
<strong>I figured I would build something that I can play with on the highway. Something that can turn some serious rpms and add a turbo to the mix.

Does any of this sound like a decent plan or should I just stick to a big cubed engine.

I would appreciate some input.

Carlos</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Stick with the big cubed engine. High rpms (above 7 or so) require very strong rotating/reciprocating parts, and friction losses increase much faster than power increases.

If you just want to turn lots of revs, get a Honda S2000. You'll love the low end torque...of your Z28.

 

You'll want titanium valves ($$$) for anything over about 8-8,500 RPM.