chris-m

anyone have any advice on the procedures for torqueing up the arp rod bolts. leaflet packed with them mentions a stretch gauge (which i havent got) or 3 passes at 40ft/lb to stretch the bolts. anyone with experience of any pitfalls etc? I've already been advised to do one bolt at a time and to check if the rod bolt hole has some form of collar inside the hole which may impede the arp bolt being tightened down properly. engine is a 2001 ls1.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

.0064 stretch or 40Ft-lbs of torque with Moly lube on the threads.

Pages 25-30 http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

chris-m

cheers. any idea on the issue of the collar/insert which may/may not be presentwithin the rod to prevent the bolt clamping down fully?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

What about ARP rod bolts which have already been in use for a few years and then re-using them for a fresh build? Do you alter the stretch or torque values because they've already been tightened? If you don't have the original length, how do you know if they need to be replaced?

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Moly lube on the threads and under the bolt head, one bolt per connecting rod at a time, torque to 40 lb/ft 3 times.

Whistler

iTrader: (46)

If it's a 2001 or 2002 it will have the collar. You need to loosen the stock rod bolt, then the threads of the bolt will be caught in the collar/sleeve. use either a claw hammer or an open end wrench to pry out the bolt and it will pull the collar out with it. They're not in there that tight... just make sure the other side's bolt is torqued down or you may distort the rod cap.

Captain InsaneO

iTrader: (38)

I was wondering that also, if you are reusing ARP rod bolts, do you have to go through the 3 cycles of 40 ft lbs. or not?

My question also refers to ARP head studs, if reused do I need to go through that process as well?