NOOB time..Rod bolts and mains
#21
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Originally Posted by Studytime
See, even people who think they know what they're talking about don't
[me] . Jason, couldn't you mill the PM rod and cap and then resize?
Ben T.
[me] . Jason, couldn't you mill the PM rod and cap and then resize?
Ben T.
Jason
#22
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Originally Posted by sapper_daddy
Well I guess the final thought on this would be that it doesn't matter if I change the bearing and rod bolts in the car, it's not going to keep me from the possibility of spinning a bearing unless I can get everything into proper tolerances anyway. Hell even blueprinted and forged assemblies are known to let go at over 7K rpm so what the hell, just keep my rev limiter @ stock and have a good time.
Some one had a comment that was like:
getting a forged bottom end for safety is like putting seat belts on the living room sofa
kinda makes sense. Thanks for the comments, that is the first I've heard of the resizing W/arps. How would you resize if this was the case?
Some one had a comment that was like:
getting a forged bottom end for safety is like putting seat belts on the living room sofa
kinda makes sense. Thanks for the comments, that is the first I've heard of the resizing W/arps. How would you resize if this was the case?
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Originally Posted by Studytime
Well, a dial-bore gauge would be better anyway, but I was actually referring to what you said about you have to get the rods resized. You no more have to do this with the ARPs than you would with the Katech bolts. The important thing is that we are using a capscrew rod bolt and it's fine to swap them out.
Ben T.
Ben T.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/659266-katech-arp-rod-bolts.html
See post #16 about ARP saying that the rod ends need to be resized.
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The thing is, Katech should be saying the same thing if ARP does.
Wouldn't you imagine the need for resizing would be a function of the rod design not the vendor selling you the bolts?
Ben T.
Wouldn't you imagine the need for resizing would be a function of the rod design not the vendor selling you the bolts?
Ben T.
#25
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NO not at all, the comment just refers to the fact that making a motor "safer" by forging it isn't a good reason, the saying goes a bit further meaning that the point of forging it is so that you can just put the motor through MORE abuse and it stand up to it. Forged motors also break too....no matter how good the technology, bearings spin, rods get thrown, pistons melt, and valves get dropped. Even with a forged block they all break when you race them, period.
Originally Posted by david vericker
If you think that your stock bottom end is as strong as a forged assembly then that seat beat you alluded to must have been wrapped around your neck and cut off the oxygen to your brain!