Yep, just like a vacuum pump. Now it won't create a HUGE vacuum, enough to help with any hp, but, IT WILL solve the oil-in-the-intake problem.
Nope, you bypass the TB totally. I have had this on my car for 2 years now and have not had 1 problem. I just put it on my wifes Formula when we did H/C to her car. Before we had the breather AND the PCV hooked up and it still pushed oil out of the breather at WOT. Not bad but you could see a film on the valve cover after some time. This is an LT1 car. Installed my system, and no more problems at all. She has 82000 miles on the motor.
It works,regardless what some say.

Tim

 

Sounds like a good idea. Might there be better vacuum pumps for the job tho? Did you have to reverse the air pump flow somehow?

 

i want to know more about using the air pump in reverse because i just figured out its sucking oil in too i think. i need something simple. also this wont mess up the air pump so you cant put it back for emissions testing will it?

 

I am the guy that wrote about the Pep Boys air filter for filtering the PCV line. I was interested in the filtering the PCV line after reading Steve Hovis’ well-illustrated website about PCV filters. Oil has no octane rating and collects in the throttle bore. We need to thank Steve for the concept but the spray paint filter is designed to filter solids AND liquids from air, so it should work better than fuel filters designed to separate solids from fuel. This is where I disagree with Steve Hovis’ approach of using fuel filters.
The filter I use is different from Mello’s spring loaded filter. Look at Mello’s picture 4 and you will see the internal threads that are used to mount a plastic bolt on the Camel filter I use.
The air compressor-line filter I use costs $19.95 and is a Camel 56-100 (a/k/a AMFLO 3000 RET) without the automatic drain; it has a small bolt you thread-out to drain the clear polycarbonate bottle.
The actual filtration is through a tiny 3/4" tall replaceable poly-spun filter, but it has a lip on the bottom compared to the filter in this thread, and the Camel packaging says it has a 50 micron filter. I think Mello’s filter is a finer filtration because it is rated at 5 microns and it looks different.
The Camel filter with auto drain has the same part # (?!?) and I doubt if this would work in the PCV system, (which is a vacuum system and not pressurized like an spray paint air compressor).
When full, the polycarbonate container will hold maybe 2-3 ounces of oil. I mounted it with cable ties to the A/C condenser so I could see it and drain it. I used an extra 30" of 3/8" gas line tubing, spliced into the existing line, which I twisted 180 degrees over to reach toward the new filter.
This mod accomplishes more than a new PCV valve because it is an actual filter, and does not cause a reduction in air flow, which I suspect is all that the new GM PCV valve does. I have collected 4-6 ounces of oil in 8,000 miles of use.

I found the better-quality metal-bowl filter, but I haven't bought it yet. The Camel polycarbonate bowl is rated only to 120 degrees so I may buy the more expensive metal bowl aerosol-separator from this link:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/alamohose/1136-8.html
I think they are in San Antonio Texas as many "Alamo" stores are there.
However, I am not sure if the metal bowl kind will work right because the website data from this link says that it (the $60 filter) has a .9 micron filter, which is too restrictive. The $20 filter, which is the kind I am using, from Pep Boys, seems to work fine.

The pcv makes a vacuum inside the engine, which apparently improves the oil pressure very slightly by assisting the oil pressure that leaks out of the bearings and elsewhere. I don’t fully understand this oil pressure aspect of pcv operation. Anyone?

 

You simply switch the in/out tubes on the AIR pump and do a lil rewiring. Send me an email and I will send you the diagram and instructions tonite when I get home.

Tim

 

I am also interested in the AIR pump as a pcv system fix. I ported my Throttle Body a couple weeks ago and the intake floor and walls were coated with oil <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> . So was the back of the Throttle Blade. I also removed my AIR and EGR systems the same day <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ; so I could use the AIR pump if it works as well as you say <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> .
Now, how do I get all of that oil out of my intake?? <img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

 

Fix the PCV. In a week or two that oil should be all burnt out/dried out and gone.

 

how are your system working now anything new learned, im looking into doing this.

 

up.
i put a breather on and got a new pcv valve, hopefully that will hold me off, but how is the filter mod working?

 

It's working out well. A bunch of the C5 guys have been trying it lately. Seems like the Road Racers who do lots of lateral side to side stuff throw more oil out of the valvecovers and they fill up the catch can more than I do.

I do more straight line acceleration. I'm surprised mine hasn't filled up more in the last 2-3 months. Am at maybe 1.5 teaspoons. The filter has never clogged. You can see the oil move when air is flowing.

Here are some reads from the C5 guys:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=400979
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=390663
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=401351
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=402042

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tim98TA:
<strong>Yep, just like a vacuum pump. Now it won't create a HUGE vacuum, enough to help with any hp, but, IT WILL solve the oil-in-the-intake problem.
Tim</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Of course it will solve the oil in the TB problem, but have you hooked a vacuum gauge up to that setup before? Bennight tried this on an LS1 and the little airpump could not keep up at full thottle, which would lead to some other problems.

 

What exactly does the oil harm when its goes in the intake? How can I tell if I am getting oil in my intake anyways(what are the side effects)?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GeorgeC:
<strong>AFAIK, the truck valve covers are the same as the car valve covers... That's pretty much pure speculation though, as I'm not sure.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is corect...I have a set of 6.0 valve covers and they are the same as the cars

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SSDriver:
<strong>What exactly does the oil harm when its goes in the intake? How can I tell if I am getting oil in my intake anyways(what are the side effects)?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The oil gets burned during combustion, taking away from power and making your car more prone to detonation. Also increases emissions.

To check if your car is doing this, remove your throttle body and look behind it, or you can just slide your finger behind the blade and see if its dirty back there.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SSDriver:
<strong>What exactly does the oil harm when its goes in the intake? How can I tell if I am getting oil in my intake anyways(what are the side effects)?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The oil gets burned during combustion, taking away from power and making your car more prone to detonation. Also increases emissions.

To check if your car is doing this, remove your throttle body and look behind it, or you can just slide your finger behind the blade and see if its dirty back there.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the help, that is pretty much what I thought would happen but was not sure.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GeorgeC:
<strong>I don't think the PCV system is really the blame here. Instead, I think the design of the stock valve covers is the primary culprit. The baffling in the valve covers is pitiful, and alows a lot of oil to be sucked into the line that only vapors are supposed to find their way in. Figure out a way to improve the valvecovers, and you'll solve the problem....</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Bingo!

I am still in Korea, so I sure aint no help right now since my car is in Phoenix and in storage. I do understand that our valvecovers are not tall, and would be hard to modify the baffling underneath the PCV tube, but I would bet the baffling could be removed and made larger under the cover so oil would not be pulled into the PCV tube that feeds off the cover. This would be a permanent fix and eliminate the need for filters, catch cans, oil separators, and the like....

Ron,

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong>Of course it will solve the oil in the TB problem, but have you hooked a vacuum gauge up to that setup before? Bennight tried this on an LS1 and the little airpump could not keep up at full thottle, which would lead to some other problems.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes I have. At WOT, the gauge goes to -0-. No vacuum, but NO pressure.
Hey, the system has been working for me for about1.5 years. Same AIR pump. Haven't burned one up yet like most people said would happen.

Tim

 

To answer 1CAMWINDR's question, you can use GM's Top Engine Cleaner (expensive) or Sea Foam (cheap) to clean the accumulated oil out of the top of your engine. You can suck it into the intake w/ the engine running, through the PCV valve (just connect a short piece of fuel line to the PCV intake) or through the brake booster vacuum line. Then turn off the engine & let it sit for a while. When you start it back up, the exhaust will be very smoky for 5 minutes or so, then it will clean up.

Some guys also like to add Techron or Lucas Fuel Injection Cleaner to their gas, & clean the engine up that way.

Either method you use, be sure to change your oil & filter afterwards. You won't believe how crappy the oil looks.

Another way to minimize oil consumption is to run 10W-30 dino oil, or 10W-40 synthetic. If you're running Mobil1, it doesn't come in 10W-40, so add a quart or two of Mobil1 15W-50 to your 10W-30 for an equivalent. I went from using over a quart of oil per 5000 miles, to NO oil consumption at all by doing this, and others have reported similar success.

 

im with tim98, there are no drawbacks to using the airpump as your pcv as long as you don't need it for emissions.

i put up a big long post with pics and vids a few months ago and got little to no repsonse. i took pics and even a vid.

it cost me a total of nothing using a 30a relay i already had and some wire.

fenris ulf.. yes vaccum will drop to around zero at wot.. you are right the air pump will not keep up well.
but remember that the only time stock pcv pulls air is at part throttle.. wot never ever sees vaccum with the stock system anyways.. so it just builds pressure.

the link to the pics is in my sig.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Tim98TA:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong>Of course it will solve the oil in the TB problem, but have you hooked a vacuum gauge up to that setup before? Bennight tried this on an LS1 and the little airpump could not keep up at full thottle, which would lead to some other problems.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes I have. At WOT, the gauge goes to -0-. No vacuum, but NO pressure.
Hey, the system has been working for me for about1.5 years. Same AIR pump. Haven't burned one up yet like most people said would happen.

Tim</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would much rather have some vacuum at WOT. Even if there are no pressure forces acting on the crankcase, gravity and shear forces will also affect ring sealing etc.