The new filter is on. If you look close, you'll see oil starting to collect after only half day of driving. I had great luck with the SMH PCV mod using 2 fuel filters in the past. This setup will separate gas vapors and particles down to 5 microns. Should be even better. Should work better as a catch can as well. Much simpler install too. Just used some 3/8" power steering hose and a couple clamps. The filter was for an air compressor. Cost about $20 or so at AutoZone. If you buy one, make sure to get the Manual drain filter, not the Auto-drain one.

It took 15 minutes to do the mod. There is a spring release drain at the bottom of the clear acrylic bowl. Filter elements can be replaced by themselves, altho I don't have a source or p/n for the element alone yet.

Thx out to whomever posted about using this type of filter in the past!

Pics:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/mjarnoldp...view=t&.done=1

Old thread:
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...=005554#000000

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: MelloYellow ]</small>

 

Definitely looks cleaner than some setups. Let us know how it works out. Auto Zone, eh?

 

Looks good! So it looks like you disconnected the PCV at the throttle body. Added hose to the PCV and connected to the filter. Then a hose out of the filter to the PCV inlet on the throttle body. And for now you are running the PCV with the spring as opposed to the new "fitting". Correct?

 

It looks good. I will try to take a pic of my setup. I have the same filter in mine. I didn't do any before and after runs with my setup to check for KR. So I don't know if it is worth it, but like people say every bit counts. All I have to say is that the extra fuel filter I use in line is like $.80, so I change it every month and drain the other filter and I am OK. I tryed paper towels on the bottom of the filter bowl, so when the oil drips there dosn't have a chance to get sucked back in under hard driving. I will get back to you with the pictures.

 

I don't really follow all these PCV/oil consumption threads closely, but I would like to point out an observation I've made... I know that GM has changed the PCV system some, and it seems to have helped a bit, but folks still have to resort to air compressor filters, etc, to patch the problem. I don't think the PCV system is really the blame here. Instead, I think the design of the stock valve covers is the primary culprit. The baffling in the valve covers is pitiful, and allows a lot of oil to be sucked into the line that only vapors are supposed to find their way in. Figure out a way to improve the valvecovers, and you'll solve the problem. My baffled/filtered breathers that I use with my crankcase evacuation system don't allow any actual oil to be sucked through them. I could just hook up the PCV system again if I wanted to, and I know I'd have none of the problems everybody else seems to encounter... I'll just keep venting to my breather tank, though...

 

Yes to the first 2 Q's. NEVER2ND, pics would be great!

GeorgeC:
I do have a bunch of the new hollow GM PCV's, I just didn't really want to use them yet. How does the valve close? In any case, in the past with the stock PCV, all I needed were 2 fuel filters. I did monitor my KR and it went down quite a bit.

With the new compressor filter it should be even better sicne it filters liquids. By ear my KR has gone down. Will have to wait for hotter SE FLA days to know for sure. I have my IAT set at 57* to up the timing, so I should know how well it works. Last night I was running very lean at WOT and say around 1* avg. KR. O2's were around .855 avg, so pinging mighta been fuel related. Upped WOT +2%.

Will post KR follow-ups. Would like to see how much collects in the acrylic bowl too. My old setup never had more than a tablespoon in it and I'm not sure my old catch can worked very well.

<small>[ June 13, 2002, 09:30 AM: Message edited by: MelloYellow ]</small>

 

AFAIK, the truck valve covers are the same as the car valve covers... That's pretty much pure speculation though, as I'm not sure.

Mello Yello, I'm not trying to knock your setup, just pointing out that I believe most of the PCV problems on our cars don't actually stem from the PCV valve itself, but the fact that the design of the valvecovers and hoses allow oil to be sucked out...

I do realize that tall aftermarket valvecovers are quite expensive, and would be very surprised if someone took that route just to remedy the PCV issues. Besides the cost, you then have to go through the trouble of relocating the coil packs and making longer spark plug wires...

Before the swap to a solid roller setup, I modified my stock valve covers to accept standard baffled breathers for my evac system. They weren't pretty, but they did work...

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GeorgeC:
<strong>AFAIK, the truck valve covers are the same as the car valve covers... That's pretty much pure speculation though, as I'm not sure.

Mello Yello, I'm not trying to knock your setup, just pointing out that I believe most of the PCV problems on our cars don't actually stem from the PCV valve itself, but the fact that the design of the valvecovers and hoses allow oil to be sucked out...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I totally agree with you. Under hard acceleration the oil sloshes to the back of our valve covers and gets sucked into the PCV system.

I haven't seen a valve cover solution yet, but it's a great idea. Maybe someone will market one or do a custom write up. For now the filtering seems to help quite a bit.

 

I just replaced my inline filter with this also <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I am also running a catch can located under my battery and I placed this filter inline between the catch can and the IN side of the intake. Basically I have it there to catch any oil vapor that gets by the catch can.

Although I did have one concern about this filter and that is it is made for positive pressure (like an air compressor). If you take a look at the drain valve at the bottom, it is actually designed to seal better with added positive pressure. Now what I did was plug up one end and suck out as much air as possible using the other end, creating negative presure. This actually didn't seal that well as the negative pressure was trying to 'suck' the valve open, therfore causing it to leak slightly and not able to hold constant pressure. So what I did was take some clear silicon and siliconed the valve shut. I put some silicon on the valve and then sucked on one end while plugging the other and this literally sucked the silicon through the valve slightly just into the inside of the bowl. I left it cure and tried to make it leak again and it didn't. Then I just added some more silicon and put the cap on top of it completely sealing it up. I planned on emptying it by unscrewing the bowl anyway, so I don't care if I lost the use of the drain valve, as it seemed way to small to drain oil anyway.

I don't know if I even had to do this as our PCV systems are probably not high enough pressure to cause the valve to leak, but I just wanted to be sure....and I thought I would share it with you guys. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Paul

 

Cool. Does yours have the Auto drain or the Manual spring loaded drain?

 

Yes, GeorgeC! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> That has got to be the ticket! Unfortunately the only "taller" valve covers I have heard of are like $500. I have "heard" the LS1 Truck valve covers are taller than ours. Has anyone ever actually seen them?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MelloYellow:
<strong>Cool. Does yours have the Auto drain or the Manual spring loaded drain?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It has the manual spring loaded drain. I took the pic of yours to the Auto Zone and told them I needed this, as I handed him the pic <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> It has the EXACT smae writing on top that yours does <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Like I said above, under vacuum that valve will want to be sucked open, whether it does with the PCV vacuum who knows, but I didn't want to take that chance.

Paul

 

Mellow Yellow, did your oil pressure go down at all with this set-up?

 

NastySS00:
Heya. Nope. Zero Oil Pressure drop. Will keep an eye on that as the filter media ages.

JR HAWK 9:
Ahh, I get it. Thx for the idea. Will silicone that thing shut on mine too.

<small>[ June 14, 2002, 11:08 AM: Message edited by: MelloYellow ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NastySS00:
<strong>Mellow Yellow, did your oil pressure go down at all with this set-up?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Why would your oil pressure change at all with adding a filter in-line of your PCV system??? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

I cant tell you why the pressure would drop, but when I put an inline fuel filter on my pcv I definately lost 5 psi. Took it off and pressure came right back up!Im sure someone here knows why!

 

That's f'd up and doesn't make any sense to me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

oil pressure and crankcase pressure don't relate to each other AFAIK...somebody correct me if I'm wrong <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I've had numerous filters in-line in my PCV system over the past year or two and I have never noticed any drop in oil pressure....even when the filter became soiled and needed to be changed.

Paul

 

I've heard that before re: Oil Pressure drop. I believe it's from a plugged PCV system. Perhaps the Fuel Filters got clogged and you lost the PCV function & vacuum. Can create sludge too.

Would affect idle quality and engine might want to stall more.

Not 100% if the oil pressure loss happens on a PCV leak or a PCV being plugged. That is one reason I elimianted the T and catch can. One of my catch cans came off the T and the leak messed up my idle. This filter serves as both a filter and catch can for me. The Vac-Tite connections weren't needed. Less room for leaks or caps popping off or such.

 

Use the AIR pump in a reverse set up. It works better, can't be seen, and is FREE.

Tim

 

You mean like a vacuum pump?
Would you measure it in " of vacuum or something? How does the AIR pump measure up for the job? No more TB use?