Rod bolt install write-up
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hoover, AL
im a little confused about the way you tightened them? 2 passes at 30ft/lbs and a final at 50? so did you replace all the bolts first and torque them to 30 then check them again at 30 just to make sure they were all at 30 then do the final pass at 50?
I'm guessing he torqued them to 30, then lossened, then torqued to 30 again, then stepped up to 50. This process is usually refered to as burnishing, and helps to smoothe any imperfection in the threads on the bolt and rod, giving a more accurate and consistant stretch at the final spec.
and +99 on the write - nicely done!
and +99 on the write - nicely done!
Originally Posted by RocketCutlass
im a little confused about the way you tightened them? 2 passes at 30ft/lbs and a final at 50? so did you replace all the bolts first and torque them to 30 then check them again at 30 just to make sure they were all at 30 then do the final pass at 50?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Hoover, AL
Originally Posted by Krab
hammertime pretty much hit the nail on the head with his explaination. Torque to 30 lb/ft, loosen, torque to 30 lb/ft, loosen, then torque one last time to 50 lb/ft. I did one bolt per cap at a time though. There's a bit of controversy over which method is right, but I chose to do it one bolt at a time.
Originally Posted by dazman
everytime someone does a write up like this they should sticky it. have a big collection of writeups and we'll be able to do somthing then 
mike
mike
Not much get stickied in this forum. In the external forum though things get stickied. I think I even have a few writeups over there that got stickied.
Originally Posted by thunderstruck
which engines have the ferrules and how hard is it to remove them ?
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iTrader: (14)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,653
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From: Michigan (Macomb or Lansing)
I heard you needed to get something redone with the rods themselves when you do this as it changes the shape of them.... Im not sure exactly what, but is this necessary?
Just curious on that, but otherwise awesome writeup and good pictures, people need to do this kind of stuff more often. I feel guilty about not doing it myself but on the bright side i always take pics of installs so one day i just gotta sit down and make a write up.
Just curious on that, but otherwise awesome writeup and good pictures, people need to do this kind of stuff more often. I feel guilty about not doing it myself but on the bright side i always take pics of installs so one day i just gotta sit down and make a write up.
Last edited by pHEnomIC; Mar 19, 2007 at 10:35 AM.
Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
I heard you needed to get something redone with the rods themselves when you do this as it changes the shape of them.... Im not sure exactly what, but is this necessary?
Did you have someone to spin the crank for you as you went from rod to rod? Doing 3 passes on each bolt means you had to climb out from under the motor and spin the crank and climb back under again to do the next one unless you did them in pairs to save time. That's where a helper would come in real handy.
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Did you have someone to spin the crank for you as you went from rod to rod? Doing 3 passes on each bolt means you had to climb out from under the motor and spin the crank and climb back under again to do the next one unless you did them in pairs to save time. That's where a helper would come in real handy.
It'd be nice to have write-ups stickied, I know I've used a few here on the board.
Originally Posted by bluecamaroz28
Is this procedure good for ARP rod bolts install.
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 408
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From: Hoover, AL
yeah sticky definately, this thread will help reduce the number of them started from people who dont search.. oh yeah one more thing when you did your tightening procedure did you do it completely each bolt at a time? or did you do them all at 30, then loosen all and redo them at 30, then a final at 50
Originally Posted by RocketCutlass
oh yeah one more thing when you did your tightening procedure did you do it completely each bolt at a time? or did you do them all at 30, then loosen all and redo them at 30, then a final at 50
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,017
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
You will have to spin that sucker to 6000RPM and let us know how it holds together.
I am too nervous to put Rod Bolts in because my Z28 is my Daily Driver and if I spin a bearing for any reason I am SOL!!
I am too nervous to put Rod Bolts in because my Z28 is my Daily Driver and if I spin a bearing for any reason I am SOL!!